Ok, here's my problem. The other day we had a terencial (sp?) down pour and I drove through a HUGE puddle. I got water in my #3 and #4 spark plug cylinders and I threw a code P3033 and P3034 (misfires). So I pulled the plugs, pulled the ignition harness and cranked her to get teh water out. I reinstalled some new plugs (Autolites just for the time being) and she ran fine. Here's my problem: when I first start her in the morning, she'll idle @ 1100-1200 for warm up, that's normal. But when she tries to idle down to 730-800 where she normally does, the engine wants to shut off (chokes and catches herself). MY fuel pressure gauge is broken (got a new one on order) so I tune my listening to the idle. When she's rich, it'll be a higher tone than when she's right where she should be. My other problem is I've got a little fuel leak where the banjo bolt connects to the fuel filter (in the rear, HRC fuel system). I'm still using the Cartech for now. What should the torque specs be on that fitting? I think what I did was over tighten it and I crushed teh washer and it leaks. It's hard to tell, but I don't think I see any fuel coming out, I can just smell it pretty bad. Any suggestions besides gettinga new fuel filter? Also, how do I fix my idling problem? Should I reinstall the old NGK plugs ( I saved them than thank God) and see what happens? Thanks in advance!

Jeremy

I would do a compression check to make sure there was no internal damage from the puddle. Also, maybe the new plugs aren't gapped right? Get a brand new copper washer for that fuel leak. I don't know what the torque spec is on it, but try not to overtighten it this time.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Jeep TB writeup - http://www.dimensia.com:81/jimbo/JeepTBfor2gnt.html

Get new NGK plugs, Id trash all your old ones. They are cheap anyhow. Run a compression test, and make sure all your cylinders are ok. Get rid of the cartech FMU and get a Vortech SFMU and replace that fuel pressure guage....then go from there...

I shoudl have been more specific in my first post, sorry guys. LOL I did a compression check that same night and got 180, 180, 175, 180 on cylinders 1-4, respectively. I've got 8.8:1 compression pistons so those numbers are pretty good. Umm, the only time I REALLY notice the fuel problem is @ idle, or lack there of, when I first start up the car. It'll idle @ 1100 or so, like I said before, and then when it tries to idle back down to 800, it starts choking. I can also smell fuel in the cabin. Sunday I'm going to Precision Tune (got a buddy that works there and is gonna help me fix EVERYTHING, for free!) and Al and myself are gonna redo EVERYTHING! I don't get paid till the 7th of March, so everything like the S-FMu is gonna have to wait till then unfortunately. Since I'm running the Cartech right now, what are the fittings that I should get to adapt the lines to the S-FMU. I REALLY don't wanna run new lines all over again. So basically I'll just need adapter fittings on the S-FMU itself for the fuel line and the return line. What are the correct AN fittings I should get? Thanks!

Jeremy

How in the world, even in the heaviest rain, did you get water in the spark plug cylinders??? You don't have a cold air intake, correct?

Personally, in regard to your misfires, I think you may possibly be running TOO rich. Do you have larger fuel injectors or running a high fuel pressure at idle? Even if you're not, these colder days coupled with possibly a BAD O2 sensor can cause the misfire you're speaking of.

In any case, get NEW spark plugs, and give them a go. Get Champion or Autolite plugs if you don't have NGK's available. They work just fine as well.

As for the BAnjo bolt on the fuel filter that's leaking, try to get a new copper washer and tighten that down first. If you haven't cross threaded the bolt hole, it should be fine. I'm not sure of the torque amount, but it's a lot. I've had the same issue as you before when I first installed mine, but I learned through priming the fuel system and checking for leaks that you REALLY have to tighten the crap out of it. It may approach 40-60 lbs of torque in fact. Just tighten it, and check for leaks by priming the fuel pump. If it doesn't leak, you're good. If it does, re-tighten.

Yup. Dead o2 sensor. The one in the downpipe. Eclipsekaiser had the same problem I think.

Those copper washers on the fuel filter are one-time use only crush washers. If you have a leak, you have to either crush them even more, or just get new ones. Once they're unscrewed at all, they're useless. A new fuel filter is $10 and comes with extra washers.

Well, I can't tell if my o2 sensor is bad or not. But like I said, once the car's been running and is warm, there's no problem. I set my idle fp to ~46-51. I reinstalled the NGK plugs the other day and that didn't have any effect. How much do o2 sensors cost and how hard is it to replace the one in the downpipe? I had my dp welded to the stock pipe so taking off that section is a no-go. It looks like it might be the original o2 sensor (car's a 96) so I have a feeling it's gonna be a BIATCH taking it out. Any suggestions on taking it out and where to get one? You basically just disconnect the old, take it out, install new, reconnect and that's it, right? I plan on doing all this Sunday so I hope she'll be ok till then! Thanks again!

Jeremy

its easy to take out. if your a 96 with turbo and have been running rich i would change it anyways. mine went bad within 5,000miles of turbo before. i would say maybe even 2,000miles.. hehe.. yah, just be ready to get cut if yours is super tight, and get ready to say f***u you freakin o2.. hehe. how you said to replace is correct.
and change those spark plugs man. and make sure they are hap correct...
Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2 @12psi :D
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

How much do o2 sensors usually run? I can't be spending a lot of money. I do'nt get paid till March 7th, but I've got a little saved up that I can use on this. My gas mileage has also gone WAY down. So you guys are 100% sure, or at least 85-99%, that it's the o2 sensor?

Jeremy

So you guys think it's the upstream o2 sensor in the downpipe? What's the easiest way to test it? If I change it and it doesn't solve the problem, what do I do then? What else could it be?

Jeremy

We're pretty sure. Never use absolutes with diagnosing problems though.

>So you guys think it's the upstream o2 sensor in the
>downpipe?

Yes, thats the one. The other O2 sensor wouldn't cause any mileage issues. Only a CEL.

What's the easiest way to test it?

Get a multimeter or an A/F meter and make sure it bounces up and down like it should. There's a test for it in both the downloadable FSM or a Chilton's.


If I change it
>and it doesn't solve the problem, what do I do then?

Go on to something else, such as wires or plugs. Cars can be expensive to diagnose to fix. You may have noticed that when you go to the doctor to get your sickness resolved or a mechanic to have your car fixed, what they do the first time to resolve your problem may not solve it. So you take it back, and they try again (with a new part or a new drug). Same thing here.

Have faith and be persistent.

Factory O2 is about 70 bucks around here. i have the NKG O2 sensor from Nopi, and it has held up to many race gas uses, and i tune pretty rich. you have to splice it in though, cause the harness usually doesnt fit. id say your fuel problem is from the craptech not keeping consistent fuel pressures at idle. it is probably going up, causing you to be too rich. i sure dont see how in the world you got water in your sparkplugs without a cold air intake though, musta bee na deep one!

www.TeamKLR.com
1997 Silver RS
12.3@118mph,20psi, race gas(drag radials)
Wiseco 10.5 Pistons
Eagle Rods
T3/T4 Turbo
Custom FMIC
Greddy Exhaust
440's