I was just wondering if anyone knows what the ehaust temp coming out of a turbo and into the downpipe is? The turbo is a T-25 and running only 5-7 psi. If anyone knows let me know.

Thanks,
Chris

Anywhere from 800 degrees F at idle to maybe 1600 at WOT and full boost.

or higher......not knowing is not smart.

Monitoring the cylinder exhaust gas temperature is KEY to not melting the cylinder. Get an EGT gauge and mount it in a runner. You don't want the cylinder EGT to get above 1600F...or you'll melt the piston.


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and just how often does it go over or close to 1600 ? i plan on turboing very soon and this kinda scares me. i will def. get an egt guage but i was wondering what the average egt guage temp is on u turbo guys in here. thanks

>and just how often does it go over or close to 1600 ? i plan
>on turboing very soon and this kinda scares me. i will def.
>get an egt guage but i was wondering what the average egt
>guage temp is on u turbo guys in here. thanks

It depends. For some, who run their systems more conservatively, it may peak closer to 1450-1500. For those who want to eak out all the HP they can, choose to play closer to the edge, which may reflect temps closer to 1600-1650. It all depends on your preference, and how much fuel you can provide.

You have to be aware though, that overly rich conditions, can create afterburn in the exhaust manifold, which may reflect high temperatures. To distinguish these conditions from "real" lean situations, it's helpful to couple your EGT monitoring with an O2 metering device (A/F monitor). That way you know on what side of .88-.92 you're dealing with. (i.e. over that means, you are rich, and under that means, you're lean.)

well im not planning on getting an s-afc for a while anyway, so if im running rich from the factory, i should be good right? my a/f guage confirms that :wary

>well im not planning on getting an s-afc for a while anyway,
>so if im running rich from the factory, i should be good
>right? my a/f guage confirms that :wary



like you i have been researching all things turbo. i don't think the safc is necessary with a stage one or two (it also advances timing-which you don't want because of detonation) YOU MUST However get a vortech sfmu if getting the hrc kit. the right fuel pressure (that is determined by your stage) will determine if you are getting enough fuel for the turbo

>what the ehaust temp
>coming out of a turbo and into the downpipe

1500-1600 degrees is for if the EGT probe is BEFORE the turbo, usually a turbocharger will drop the EGT's of an engine by about 200-300 degrees. so, if you have your EGT probe on the downpipe somewhere right after the turbo, temperatures shouldn't go much above 1300 degrees.

i dont understand y this vortech sfmu is absolutely necessary, can someone explain please? thanks

Apparently the Cartech FPR that comes with the kit seems to fluctuate your fuel pressure, sometimes to dangerous levels (either super rich or super lean) and a lot of guys on here claim that they weren't getting enough fuel because of the cartech which caused detonation. The problem is that our pistons do not handle detonation well at all. So in short, the S-FMU is a better regulator which means no detonation which means a healthy engine. :thumbsup

Guys feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

about 150 degrees f colder than the exhaust gas temperature in your manifold.


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