I've been boosted for two days now. The first night, everything was going great when out of nowhere I'd occasionally get these hesitations in my ordinary driving while just giving it even pressure on the gas pedal. I didn't hear a knock, it just felt like my fuel was cut for a split second. So I turned up the fuel pressure (60 at idle). Since those hesitations (maybe misfires? not sure what one feels like) gave me a check engine light, I took it to Autozone. They said it was related to my MAP sensor. I checked it out, everything was fine. Connections were perfect. So we go out driving with the fuel pressure still around 60 and nothing's going wrong. We decided to turn it down about 5 or 10 psi to match what Hahn suggests...a few minutes later, more of those stutters/hesitation but no CEL. We pull in somewhere, adjust the pressure back up and everything is fine. My EGTs are below 1100 unless under boost, then they barely see 1300 during boost if that. Why does my car require higher fuel pressure? I'm afraid it'll wear out my injectors or flood the engine with fuel. I don't have black exhaust pooring out and my A/F gauge just says I'm running a bit rich. And why does it feel like my engine chokes when I set the fuel pressure at 50 at idle?

I am using all of the parts from the Hahn kit (even the FPR =( )

sounds like your FCD. But what to I know I'm not turbo...yet.

Hmmm... yeah that is typical of what you'll be dealing with using the HRC fuel components. I think you already know you need to go get a SFMU and missing link asap. 30lb injectors too. With that said...

60 psi idle is way too high. If your gauge is accurate??? you'll go way over target FP under boost. One of the main reasons my engine blew was because my injectors jacked up at high PSI caused by the HRC/Cartech FPR. I believe the max for our injectors is about 120psi?, after that, they shut down and you detonate.

Pull the battery for 10 mins or so to reset the ECU. Turn your fuel pressure WAY down, and try getting it to run within HRC spec.

Do a search for "FCD testing". You'll want a voltmeter, and test the map voltages at WOT. The FCD shouldn't really be an issue unless you're under boost or it's hooked up wrong.

Replace your o2 sensor? Swap out with a friend if you can. Reset the ECU while you're doing it.

Clean the injectors? Soak the tips in kerosene or injector cleaner.

HRC has a new "billet" FPR, make sure you get that (its a free replacement) if you have the old cast one. Looks like this: http://www.signal11.com/~thedawg/car/fpr/fsimages/newfpr2.jp g

Where is your EGT probe mounted? those readings seem REALLY low. i dont see 1100 unless i am idleing or off the gas in gear. this "stutter" you are having, can you watch your A/F gauge to see if it corresponds with a lean condition? my car does that a little during normal driving after i have the battery dis-connected for a long time, after a while its ok. id make sure you arent running PIG rich to make your EGT's that low, though if you were THAT rich, it would probably make EGT's higher than usual.



www.TeamKLR.com
1997 Silver RS
12.3@118mph,20psi, race gas(drag radials)
Wiseco 10.5 Pistons
Eagle Rods
Started as a manufactured turbo kit, now its a custom one!
Vortech FMU
Greddy Exhaust
440cc Injectors

Waiting on the EVOlution!

I had the fitting for the probe welded into my downpipe that Hahn provided two inches from the top so it should be working perfectly. Right?

Remember I'm only a stage oner and it's pretty cold here in Illinois right now.

That is not a correct place to have an EGT probe. I recommend putting it at port #4 in your manifold.

What spark plugs are you using and what are they gapped to?

With the egt in the downpipe, you have to guess at the actual temp coming from the head. It might be as low as 200F higher or even 300F higher. Most cars drive around on the highway(10 vacuum) between 1350-1400F at 70mph on a level surface. This depends on OAT and load mostly(headwind etc). So if your egt is at 1100F while doing this, then you gauge is off 300F from actual.

This makes your hard pull egt roughly 1600F. Not too bad for nonintercooled......cold weather is helping you.

There is no way you need 60psi fuel pressure at idle. How old is your fuel filter?

Try taking off the Hahn FCD and see if it idles better and fixes the problem with a normal 45psi idle pressure. If this is the case, buy a VC-2 from splitsecond.com or a missing link(do not have the website handly) instead.

Just ideas.

Hmmm...the directions for the EGT gauge said that would've been a good spot to put it. Alright, so I should tack on about 300 degrees to my readings?

Those are not the correct directions for you. You want to use an EGT gauge to monitor the combustion heat of A cylinder(not all of them). Also - Exhaust gas expands as it exits the turbine, so it cools down a bit. Sorry, but the downpipe is just the wrong place to have the EGT probe because the readings are simply not very usefull. Here's some info about EGT probe location that might help you out some. http://www.stevetek.com/R-EGTprobeLocation.html


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Is it easy to drill into the manifold HRC provides? Also, how should I go about patching up the downpipe?

Buy a missing link. Problem solved

You guys are spending too much time talking about the EGT placement and not his actual problem. Geez. My EGT is and always has been in the dp. I will probably move it soon, but it has nothing to do with his current fuel problem. Besides, if you know what you are looking at, it works fine. It is only a general gauge anyway.

The original problem I see is he needs 60psi to idle. I can guess this is not static? When you set your initial fuel pressure, set it statically. Remove the vacuum pressure line to the fpr and then set it. Once set, reconnect the vacuum pressure line. If it begins to stumble etc, give it a few minutes idling to see if it puckers up. That is normal.

Oh, and as mentioned, the missing link is a good idea, but you should be able to fix your problems with what you have now whether people like it or not. Fix the tuning before you start throwing money at the problem. Only replace something if it is proven to be broke on your car.

Thanks MuRiX. I reset the ECU and checked all of my connections and everything. The car now idles around 40 once it's warmed up and I don't get those hesitations anymore. The EGT placement does concern me though since I'm only a stage 1 and summers do get hot here in Illinois.