I am ordering a Greddy Type S BOV. What do I order it for? A 95-99 Eclipse Turbo? I have a HRC Stage II Kit with a fmic.

No, i beleive with the HRC pipes you have to order the universal kit that comes with adapter flanges, because you'll have to cut off the current flange and weld the greddy flange in place of it. The Greddy BOV won't fit on the HRC pipe's 3000GT flange. (fits on a STAR kit tho, out of the box ;-))

So I need to order the universal kit? Is anyone positive? Thanks

Dino is correct. The HRC upper IC pipe doesn't really have a flange on it at all, just a 1" piece of pipe coming off the main IC pipe, and uses a coupler to hold the 3000gt BOV on.

You need this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1874498014

so there is no way getting around welding? some reason i thought if you bought the type s from hrc you could just mount it in place of the 3000gt bov.

You don't HAVE to weld it on, but you DO need the flange. You can just use a small piece of coupler and 2 small hose clamps. Bolt the flange to the BOV, then use the coupler to hold it to the HRC pipe like I did......

I'm trying to figure out what i need to get my RFL, same thing i assume, right?



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

for the RFL, you don't need anything special at all. i got the universal one and you can just stick it right on to the hahn piping without the use of any special clamps or anything. works great, just don't overtighten the crazy little hex thingies.

Sweet. Are you impressed with your RFL? I've been wanting one for quite some time now, but won't it leak if it's only held on by a few hex screws??? I'm ready to crank up the boost, and i think it's my BOV that's not allowing me to hold 13+psi of boost. It seems like i spike at 16 (track) and fall down to 10-11, and although i haven't officailly brought up the issue, i'm hinting for ideas as to why it would do that. I've narrowed it down to either the 3KGT BOV, a leak in piping (if it is, i sure can't find it), orrr...the fact that my TurboXS MBC is overshooting it's bounds trying to get 16psi out of it with my 5psi spring. Weird thing is, if i open it more, i'll spike to 17-18 and fall to 12, adn by the end of the track i'll have around 10psi. It was beginning to make my track times suck. I'll run some pics of my shitty I/C piping, since i plan on having it all totally redone next month, kinda like XtremeRS's. The main point was trying to figure out if i should have them weld a flange onto the new piping, because i really don't want to use that stupid Hahn flange since it's right on a 90 degree bend, and with my current piping my BOV is venting right on to the radiator fan :) like, within an inch. There are tiny marks on my fan where the vacuum hose has slightly rubbed onto it. I don't like that. Well anyway, if you can make any sense to what i've just said, help me out :thumbsup

BTW: Sorry if i stole a post or anything.



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

I had the same boost fade problem, not quite as bad as yours, but the issure turned out to be a boost leak, mostly at the throttle body throtle plate shaft. So what i did to fixt this, is to run the boost/vac singal hose at the intake mainifold, INSTEAD of at the tubo compressor housing. I used the brake booster vac line. Put a "T" in that, then ran the signal hose to the input of the boost controller, then the output of the boost controller to the wastegate. Holds nice and steady now, almost perfect. With it this way, any boost leaks will be compensated for because it will effect manifold pressure, and the controller will make up for it, cause it will sense it right there at the intake mani. Make a boost leak detector too, that is a great way to find leaks. Be sure to cap off the nipple on the compressor housing also.

the RFL uses 3 hex thingies to bolt secure the BOV onto the piping, but there's a really tight gasket on the inside of the RFL that makes a good seal and helps the screws out. of course, the way you're suppose to really do it is to use one of the little pipes that come with the kit - one of the 2 that comes with the RFL is weldable with it with a groove in it, so the hex thingies have something real to grab onto instead of just a flat piece of metal. so far, i haven't had any problems with the RFL leaking, but i could always add washers to increace how tight the spring is. the RFL certinly sounds a LOT cooler with more boost (10+ psi), the sound gets a lot deeper, sharper, and a lot more pronounced. anyways, i'm done now.

My friend has a boost leak detector that I had for qutie awhile, i don't have it anymore, i thought i had everything taken care of. Thanks for the idea!!



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

the best boost leak detector i've ever used was the old "soapy water in a spray bottle" trick. throw some PSI in there and spray your whole intake system down with that stuff. soap suds = boost leaks. works really well. anyways, i'm done now.

is there anyway that rfl can fit on my star pipings because this guy at a shop said it was impossible unless u weld it. Is this true?