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Forum nameTurbo/Nitrous Tech
Topic subjectHead studs, do they got to be re-torqued?
Topic URLhttps://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=i8&topic_id=34261
34261, Head studs, do they got to be re-torqued?
Posted by pn0ymahal, Nov-12-02 09:42 AM
do they got to be re-torqued? after how many miles? and what do u got to remove to re-torque them? .. im debating on it with the ard bolts?. i might plan to make a 400mile trip etc...
oh yah, for a break in, is it bad to do a long trip 400miles about 6 and 1/2 hr trip? or should the break in be less intervals?



Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins anyone got a 420a block thats not spun/head for sale?

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast
34262, RE: Head studs, do they got to be re-torqued?
Posted by MotoFool, Nov-12-02 10:15 AM
u should warm up the car 3-5 times to opertaing temp and let cool down to cool(touch of hand on cyl head,) then some short less then 1hr drives let car cool down nice a long change oil after 1500 miles or so

thats what i would do if it was mine i might even change oil at 1k
34263, RE: Head studs, do they got to be re-torqued?
Posted by Nitrous_RS1997, Nov-12-02 01:18 PM
if you are talking about breaking in a new engine, listen to me: after you have it assembled, start the car, and baring any huge problems like an obvious metal on metal sound or bad leak, hold the engine as close to 2k rpm's as you can until it is up to operating temperature. after this, go for a little drive, find a nice open, straight piece of road, and in 3rd gear, accelerate from 30-50mph at a descent amount of throttle, once you hit 50mph, let off, and let the engine slow itself down to 30mph on its own. do this about 12 times. you are seating the rings, if this isnt done properly your engine wont ever have the compression it should and could burn oil. use a GOOD oil filter, and NON-synthetic oil. i bought the cheapest crap i could find. change your oil and filter after 500 miles. you might notice a few metal shavings, no biggie. change it again at 1k miles. from this point id drive normal, just dont beat the total shit out of it just yet. change the oil again at 2k miles, and you can switch back to synthetic then. car might burn oil during breakin, it WILL make weird noises, so dont let it freak out. and i would avoid interstate driving as much as you can, or more specifically maintained high speeds. you want stop and go to break an engine in. goodluck with it man.



www.TeamKLR.com
1997 Silver RS
12.3@118mph,20psi, race gas(drag radials)
Wiseco 10.5 Pistons
Eagle Rods
Started as a manufactured turbo kit, now its a custom one!
Vortech FMU
Greddy Exhaust
440cc Injectors

Waiting on the EVOlution!
34264, RE: Head studs, do they got to be re-torqued?
Posted by pn0ymahal, Nov-12-02 02:41 PM
hey, thanks for the break in info. i guess i wont be driving from so ca to northern ca for part of my break in. i guess ill just drive around cities and pch etc for some time. and during last hours of the night so i wont find any cars. well im a auto not stick, but it still applies to me. oh yah of course i dont go into boost right?
cool



Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins anyone got a 420a block thats not spun/head for sale?

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast
34265, RE: Head studs, do they got to be re-torqued?
Posted by MotoFool, Nov-12-02 03:17 PM
i dunno not giving it al heat cycles before going out and running it against everything ive learned when building engines tor ace and last id atleast give it 2 heat cycles warm and cool down before going and running the car i sure as hell wont hurt anything, just a precaution every engine builder i know uses , i dont like doing things twice..
34266, RE: Head studs, do they got to be re-torqued?
Posted by Nitrous_RS1997, Nov-12-02 03:39 PM
you can boost a tad... just no ripping the pavement up runs. get a Haynes manual, read what it says to do with engine break-ins. has worked for me and my dad for 18 years now. but to each their own, everyone has a different opinion about how to break an engine in. point blank, if it was assembled faulty, it will break regardless of if you break it in one way or the other.



www.TeamKLR.com
1997 Silver RS
12.3@118mph,20psi, race gas(drag radials)
Wiseco 10.5 Pistons
Eagle Rods
Started as a manufactured turbo kit, now its a custom one!
Vortech FMU
Greddy Exhaust
440cc Injectors

Waiting on the EVOlution!
34267, RE: Head studs, do they got to be re-torqued?
Posted by pn0ymahal, Nov-13-02 01:57 AM
how about re-torquing the head studs? anyone know if we got to if i get a set, and how long do i got to wait?
cool


Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast
34268, RE: Head studs, do they got to be re-torqued?
Posted by Nitrous_RS1997, Nov-13-02 02:52 AM
Its a good idea to re-torque them sometime during the break-in process...like at 500 or 1k miles. you dont HAVE to do it, cause there is a 99.9999% chance they will stay torqued, but its a good idea to just check.



www.TeamKLR.com
1997 Silver RS
12.3@118mph,20psi, race gas(drag radials)
Wiseco 10.5 Pistons
Eagle Rods
Started as a manufactured turbo kit, now its a custom one!
Vortech FMU
Greddy Exhaust
440cc Injectors

Waiting on the EVOlution!
34269, RE: Head studs, do they got to be re-torqued?
Posted by pn0ymahal, Nov-13-02 04:26 PM
well today i got my pistons, rings and head studs from hrc.. well i ordered them. so i asked them about re-torquin them back and brad said, " its a good idea".. i talked to 2 machine shops and the place who might do the labor/building for me. and they all said, no not needed.
so i guess i wont just yet.. unless i feel the need to then..
thanks dude...


Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins gathering parts for rebuild

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast