4g63 guys have the ACT 2600 which is the Micheal Jorden of clutches. Apparently this clutch has it all. Strength drivability and durablity. I'm in the market for a clutch currently and i've been reading a lot of perspectives about CM and Centerforce but issues of durability make me balk at the idea of shelling out 5-6-700 dollars for something that ill have to replace like gas in my dishonest gas tank. And it looks like these are the only 2 options as far as the 420a setup is concerned. Apparently ACT is working on a clutch but I cant wait 6-8 months. Wyatt told me about a Clutch Specialies hybrid but that is still in the makings too. *sigh* I put clutch masters stage 4 as the title because thats the clutch that im leaning toward as far as kung foo grip, but the real questions are, "will it last and will I be walking around with a leg bigger than a midget." If anyone has anything to add, please add. I hope i can buy a clutch soon. D-dog

You are gonna hear good and bad about both setups... I heard more bad about the CM so I decided on CFDF. I am INCREDIBLY happy with my decision. I have been running it for almost a year now, with the last 4 months at 5 psi of boost with absolutely NO problems. Now, please understand that this is my experience and please do not take this for gospel. I don't want anyone to yell at me if they weren't so lucky.

Also, do a little more research on prices before you plop down your dough. I paid half of what you are talking about in your post for my setup. Also, from looking at your pic, you have a '97-'99 RS, which if I remember correctly means you have a modular setup (that is the correct term, right guys?). This is great since you don't have to worry about finding a lightened flywheel to go with your clutch. The CFDF, or any for that matter, comes complete with one.

Good luck on your decision and keep us posted.

DoN
'99 GS Sports Edition
Star Stage 2, CFDF Clutch
Greddy Manual Boost Controller
Greddy BOV and EVO Exhaust
Greddy TT and shift knob
AF/X Underdrive Pulley
AEM Big Brake Kit
B&M Edge Short Shifter
Eibach Sportlines with Tokiko Blues

well, you will always hear good and bad about every product on the market, but from my expierence, if driven properly, a clutchmasters stage 4 clutch should last you for a while, just like any other clutch. It is strong enough to hold your power, trust me. it has been tested and proven.

Bring it on............

Ive decided to purchase the Centerforce. Thanks for the input. I talked to the owner of Thirteen Twenty in SD and he told me that both clutches had both a bad reputation because for this particular clutch, not a lot of time was spent engineering it to perfection. He said once ACT comes out with a clutch, tuners will once again bow down to their capabilites. He assured me that if I were to go with CM that I would definetly NOT want the stage 4 for street purposes. Repeted activation and deactivation would result in quicker transmission failure. Then he said, "what would you rather replace, a clutch... or a transmission." I said a tranny. (kidding) THe ultimate clincher that got me in the end was the price tag. He said that both stage 3 and the CFDF clutches can both easily handle my measily 12 lbs of boost and both clutches are not the cremdelacrem, so buy the one that will inevitably break untimely but at a smaller cost - Centerforce. I talked to George about the intricasies of turbo charging a naturally aspirated stock vehicle. He used to own an 11 second eclipse about a year and a half ago which is when e.t.'slike that were actually noteworthy. Currently he has a Ford Fucus, but before you glance down, let me just say this, It is completely rallied out with a roll cage, turbo charger, new bottom end, and $3000.00 paint job that he didnt even pay for! Anyways, thanks for your time george.

Well I have a Stage IV CM sitting right here in my room, and well, you guys will know soon enough (if I ever get my engine back) how "streetable" it is...

BTW I got the non-modular version with an 8.2lb flywheel (I weighed it myself). Funnily enough though, I heard that the CM was the way to go versus the CFDF if you wanna hold some real Horsepower (300+), which is definitely what I plan on doing...

As for reliability of the CM, well lets put it this way.. How many people on this board have actually tried a CM Stage IV anyway? 1 or 2? I guess I decided to be a guinea pig for all 420As out there...

More random facts, the entire clutch assembly for a CM Stage IV (Clutch, Pressure Plate and Flywheel) only weighs 20.75lbs...

Woohoo, if I am correct that is the weight of the stock Iron flywheel all ALONE (without the modular clutch stuff!).. Hopefully we'll have some fast revs here!

Guy
RS_Guy



Keep all your fingers crossed people!
Looks like it's all falling in place finally...
I might actually be *driving* my car soon!
Its only been 5 LONG months...

Lean is Mean, Lean is Mean, Lean is Mean...

rs guy, when do you plan on installing everything?

This week hopefully IF I get my engine back.. (I Highly doubt it even though the dude working on it insists that it will be done....)

Trust me, I will definitely let y'all know..

Guy
RS_Guy



Keep all your fingers crossed people!
Looks like it's all falling in place finally...
I might actually be *driving* my car soon!
Its only been 5 LONG months...

Lean is Mean, Lean is Mean, Lean is Mean...

My CM Stage 4 should be in tommorow, I guess we'll be number 3 and 4 to have them. I should have my motor done and everything running in about 2 weeks, still waiting on my LSD..Let you guys know how it feels

Shant 98 Turbo Avenger

Does anyone know what the CM stage 4 is rated at? (clamping force)

I've had my CM 4 clutch in my car for quite a while before I started my engine build. Quite solid (even though my car didn't have SERIOUS power), but let's put it like this......it was enough to snap an axle ;) with 114 lb ft of torque to the wheels. And I am going to use the SAME clutch after the motor is in the car.

Bring it on............

bought DF for $425.00 and will be installing it next week for $250.00 (usually little more for installation) I'll give a full report... Cant wait to punch it. Havnt for quite some time due to a failing clutch and no chedda to buy a new one.

Just wanted to make sure you caught my drift. These clutches MUST be broke in correctly (i.e. read the directions/precautions!!!). I know of a Nissan 200SX here that couldn't wait to break it in that now he must drop somemore cash for another clutch... I took my time for the 1st 500 miles or so, and I am sure glad I did... Just a warning breda...

DoN

'99 GS Sports Edition
Star Stage 2, CFDF Clutch
Greddy Manual Boost Controller
Greddy BOV and EVO Exhaust
Greddy TT and shift knob
AF/X Underdrive Pulley
AEM Big Brake Kit
B&M Edge Short Shifter
Eibach Sportlines with Tokiko Blues

Well I've had CFDF and CM stage 3 kelvar and as afar as performance the CM was better. My CFDF slips on redline 1-2 and 3-4 shifts. I know it was broken in properly and doean't slip any other time ( I can burn out in 1rst all day or lug it in 4th or 5th without slippage). Over on the neon board the vast majory with the CFDF omplained of the same thing (not everyone sone were happy with it). This is the non modular set up I have. The Clutchmanster worked like a dream until after a yr or so I broke the tranny, inspected it and it was worn out. A 2eks later my clutch slave cyl went out so it was probably never totally disengaging (speculation). I had the stock clutch 1rst and the CM 2nd and havent been happy since (tried the Brute power clutch too. sucked). I dont wish to go back to modular becuase of the cost of replacing them. My next clutch which I'll need before July if I plan on going will either be Nemo's DF or CM non modular stage 4 if they sell it without a flywheel (my 1rst choice). Hopefully I can be done with it after that.

BTW my CM stage 3 cost $700, my used tranny with 27K miles $500. Labor the same. I'd rather break the damn tranny.
Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon ES-I-NOS but T soon!
http://members.nbci.com/FlyEsi/home.htm
You too can have a never updated site complete with old info and dated pics!

thanks stan don, armond, rs guy for the good info. How long does it take to run in a df clutch? a cm? The df clutch specifically slipped 1st and 2nd gear? How much boost?

I broke the centerforce in the recommended 500 miles. My engine was still failry fresh at the time and I didn't realize the centerforce was slipping until several months later after trying some all out shifts. The CM stage 3 kelvar takes a little longer (they say 500 also but 1000miles is better). How much boost? the damn thing does it NA and nitroused. I say it slips on the 1-2 and 3-4 shifts (it never slips "in" gear).

Stan2gnt
Stan2va@aol.com
95 Talon ES-I-NOS but T soon!

LAST EDITED ON 13-Apr-01 AT 07:45 AM (PST)

sorry accidental!