Everything was a success, just like the last person who got theirs in. I didn't have a chance to go messign aroudn with it, but it seems as though my car is extremely rich for some reason, even with no change. Has anybody else noticed this? Just sitting in the driveway, my car seemed to pop a lot and when i shut it off the exhaust popped again. I also had to teach myself how to solder! :)
What would cause my car to run rich now, even if i haven't messed with anything. Pressure settings? Either way, it looks awesome and i'm very glad to have it in. Just thought i'd let everyone know!

I don't know if i'm going to mess with it, i did the blue wire mod, i think i'm going to let somebody else tune it for me.

To the person who blew his motor messing with the afc: were you lean or rich??



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

Do NOT run high fuel pressures and lean out on the afc, or you will have problems with detonation. Try to set the afc as close to 0 correction as possible and tune by altering fuel pressure. This will minimize the amount that the afc *tinkers* with the MAP voltage, and thus minimize the amount of timing advance under boost.

Our cars run a tad rich by default, but Im not sure about it backfiring or whatnot.

I've never heard of anyone blowing their engine from just an afc..but if it is possible, they must have been very very lean. Running rich is the 'safe' alternative to fuel tuning, you cant blow your engine if your too rich.

what do you consider high fuel pressure?



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

If you are using 30 lb injectors, I would set your idle pressure to around 30 psi to start. You really need a datalogger to see what your fuel trims are in order to set the proper idle and WOT pressures. There are a few others using the 30 lb injectors with no afc that can probably give you accurate numbers to start with.

>Everything was a success, just like the last person who got
>theirs in.
heh, that was probably me. yeah, get a data logger, they're wicked nice for doing real tuning... a digital a/f gauge is a must too.

Well, i have the 450's but they aren't going in until I can solve the coolant problem, so next month sometime. I'm thinking about dropping the pressure to 4:1, even though id on't know what decent idle pressure would be with them. Probably 25-ish at idle. That would mean, at 15psi, 25+60=85psi.
Although the guy i'm doing the work with thinks I should run a higher ratio and tune down, i just might run a lower ratio and tune up. I'd rather do most tuning with the AFC and less with FP, but if the norm is to do it that way, then thats what i'll do.

This shit is giving me a headach,e i'm going to take a nap.

BTW: To hell with the blue wire mod. My car ran so rich it would barely move with it wired.



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

They guy you are doing the work with would be correct if you had a 4g63 turbo engine with a MAS sensor. The reason you don't want to run a higher ratio disk and tune down with the afc is because our cars use the MAP sensor to control more engine functions than just injector duty cycle. When the afc drops the MAP voltage to reduce the duty cycle of the injectors, the computer reads less load on the engine and increases timing as well. You really should buy a datalogger to read your timing values when tuning your car with an afc. I have seen cases where the afc drops the MAP voltage low enough to advance the timing by 40 degrees under boost :wary

Just so you know. I have to run 13psi fuel pressure w/ the 440's to keep the trims from being maxxed out.

So, since i'm new at tuning this thing (actually, i'm not touching it!), you are down to 13psi fuel pressure (IDLE??), and richening it out with the AFC instead of leaning it. From the little i know about the workings of fuel trim, i can understand the fact that reducing the voltage can result in advancing timing. Would it be possible to properly tune the AFC (by leaning instead of richening) if you had aftermarket boost-controlled timing adjustment, like i plan on doing?

My next topic of discussion: It's been awhile since people brought up Howell's ECU (i really didnt read that much about it), is it supportive of boost, thus making it possible to yank off the f'in' defenser and tune the car like a turbocharged car. I'd be willing to drop money on that quicker than on an aftermarket ignition system.


Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

hey guys sup

I am reading this thread and thinking to my self...well then if this is true then the Safc is really not good for us it can harm us in a way, instead of benefiting us.

Now is there any type of way to get around this??? I do not know get different type of map sensor or trying to go plus instead of negative?

Also has anyone here used a setup without the sfmu. Just by using the Safc and bigger injectors like the 4G63 people do ???

laterz

Yes that's 13psi at idle. I have no AFC so I'm not richening it any. Even at 13psi the trims are close to maxxed out at idle. It doesn't need richened ever.

I'm still thinking about tuning LEAN, and RICHENING with the AFC. Won't that in turn damper or slow the timing advance (Since we can't actually pull timing), since i'm giving the ECU a lesser signal. Wouldn't that be safe, AND help with timing?



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

Hate to be a menace, but i kinda need the advice on the question i asked above :(



Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

14.21@101mph 10/4/02

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 4 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1 / 30lb Mustang injectors / TurboXS MBC / 1G SMIC / Eibach Sportline springs / KYB GR-2 struts / GReddy 52mm EGT / A'PEXi Super AFC

The point has been talked about but to my knowledge no one has tested the idea. It shouldn't be hard for someone w/ a logger and AFC.