...when it is the pistons and rings that fail first? I know it is sort of an insurance thing but at around $500-$600 for a set of 4 it is kinda costly. When and if I blow my motor I'd try to opt for the cheaper route with lower comp pistons and better rings and maybe up the boost to the 10-15 lb range. Everytime I boost I don't even go full throttle - I go about 1/2 to 3/4 - I baby my car cuz I'm afraid it'll fail like when I had the juice, snapped a rod and punched thru the block. Getting a rebuild would be like getting an insurance on my car if at anything increasing the performance. I'd like to be able to gun it all the time and dog the hell out of it like when I was all motor. Letting it wind all the way up to 7k like it was coo. Durability and reliabilty is what I'm trying to aim for. DOes anyone know what boost level our rods will most likely fail at? Thanks.

Alvin

96 RST

Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / 55mm ARD TB/ Nology wires / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar
GSX Dual Piston Calipers, X-drilled rotors

You will bend stock rods at 15psi - ~260ish crank HP.

That's why. You want it through your block?

:) you might be able to run 12....maybe. but you don't want to fuck up your new pistons because you didn't get the rods do you?

, go figure). I know especially early on many people foolishly ran their car to 15, 17 and even 20psi, blew pistons and never hurt the rods. Didn't both Hahn and Star kits get tested on stock bottom ends to 16+ psi before the pistons let loose? Not suggesting running on stock rods at 15+psi is a good idea when eagle rods aren't but $350-400 (damn cheap if you ask me in the realm of what it cost to rebuild an engine) but I do think stock rods PREPPED for HD usage (shotpeened, balanced and polished) can survive 15psi. I wouldn't try beyond that. Just dont ask me for any cash if they do bend at 15psi.Plus once at 15psi how long will it be before you want more. BTW I know personally 12psi is not a problem (dont ask, my EGT and AF said it was okay to try it from time to time).

Even if you do go with stock prepped rods your only saving $150 over Eagles, they dont do that for free.

I too was wondering this question....I never plan on going over 10psi with my car, So I realy did not see the need to buy new rods too....coinidently I now have 8 xtr rods and 4 good pistons laying around, Mayber I will take your advice Stan and get them preped for the new pistons....

Basically, if you are going to boost more than 12-15 psi, then you'll need forged rods because of a higher possibility that they can bend, which could result in a hole through the block. I believe that all you'll run is under 12-13 psi, then you probably don't need to upgrade the rods. You might just want to get them hardened--coated or cryogenically treated for extra strengthening. Just my opinion :)

if you plan to see 300hp anytime soon replace your rods since you are there already when doing the pistons etc.. get the eagle for 350 instead of crower. crower is for the big dogs..


Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins anyone got a 420a block thats not spun/head for sale?

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

I don't really have much info in this, but if I remember correctly tommyboy was bending rods at 12-13 psi with wiesco pistons. Is that right guy's???