Here are the details on my current setup. I just finished the install and testing yesterday. (Pictures will be following later in the week once I get my digital camera):

I have a 96 eclipse GS with about 45,000 miles.

1) HRC Stage II with Side Mount Intercooler (running about 6/7 psi)
- I haven't pushed the car past 6 psi yet. Also I had Hahn racecraft turn the clevice on the wastegate out so it runs at the lowest possible stage II boost setting.

2) Vortech SFMU with 2.72 disk installed and hard spring (faster rise rate spring)

3) Missing Link
- I haven't had any problems with this product as it is a smooth transition from vacuum to boost. No fuel cut.
- I did have a problem with the holes drilled in the missing link for the screws. The holes did not align with those on the intake manifold. I simply bored out the holes a couple
of sizes bigger to get a solid no leak fit.

4) NGK-7e11 gapped to .032

5) Greddy Type S Blow Off Valve.

6) Autometer Lunar Series Gauges (Pyrometer, Boost w/vac, A/F)
- The exhaust temperature probe is tapped into runner #4.

A couple of comments on the kit:
- The Accel Inline fuel pump is very loud from outside the car. I don't mind the noise as it lets me know that it is working properly.
- I've noticed my exhaust gas temperatures to be very good. Idle: 850 degrees
Cruising: 1000 degrees
Boosting: 1200 degrees
- Fuel Pressure settings
Idle 50 psi
Boosting at 5 psi I see about 83 psi A/F guage is in the green. (about 1/2 down on the gas pedal)
(3/4 of the way down I have seen 90 psi)
- No problems with fuel cut and the missing link. No HRC FCD
is installed.

I would recommend (I am very cautious):
- Some fire hose tubing to wrap the air conditioning lines as they sit right next to the exhaust downpipe on the turbo. I purchased two sizes 1" x 2' and 1.5" x 2' for about $40.

Issues not addressed in the kit:
- Signal Hoses. On the back of the intake manifold there is a 3 way tee. The hose coming from the blow off valve is supposed
to be installed on this tee. Problem was that the tee had no
open lines. I took a piece of 1/4" hose and installed a 1/4"
tee. One signal hose goes to the manifold, one to the blow
off valve, and one to the existing line.

I have some questions. I am assuming my fuel pressures are right on the money. When testing the kit, I mounted the fuel pressure guage to the windshield wiper and didn't fully close the hose as to not pinch the hose. I just latched the hood. This way I could get an accurate reading while boosting. The kit instructions suggest around 85 psi of fuel pressure for a 5 psi boost. Do my fuel pressures look ok?

Also, what are the adjustments for on the blow off valve? If you remove the jam nut on the blow off valve you can make the spring softer/harder? What effect does this have?

Thanks to all the help I have receive so far. I have made all the changes to this kit (the additional parts) from suggestions and previous forum posts that I have read. Please make some comments on my current setup. I plan on doing a little more tweaking before using the car as a daily driver.

Thanks,
Kurt

I do eventually plan on rebuilding the motor but not right away. I haven't done much research but I am leaning towards the howell bottem end (I believe it is 8.6 forged pistons and rods). I also would need to learn how to do it :) but hopefully I have some time.

bump, also the howell rebuild kit is good, but you can get better deals out there imo..

>bump, also the howell rebuild kit is good, but you can get
>better deals out there imo..

like where for example.

Your setup sounds solid. Everything seems to be where it should be.
As for adjusting the Greddy bov, all you have to do is loosen the nut on the top and use an allen wrench to turn up or turn down the spring tension. Running 6-7 psi, you won't require too much tension. You'll probably want to start by turning it to soft all the way until it stops then give it a full turn to hard. Take it for a run and hear how that sounds. If it sounds like it's leaking boost, just increase the spring tension a little more. It will be trial and error with the bov. Just tighten the nut when your done.

search the post about wiesco pistons... I think the total was 770 for JE Rods and Wiesco pistons with rings, Then to complete the rebuilt kit, there was also an oil pump... which is 100 and something

>A couple of comments on the kit:
> - The Accel Inline fuel pump is very loud from outside
>the car.

You got that right. That thing whines louder than a bratty 4 year old

I don't mind the noise as it lets me know
>that it is working properly.


Yeah thats the good thing about it


> - I've noticed my exhaust gas temperatures to be very
>good. Idle: 850 degrees
> Cruising: 1000 degrees
> Boosting: 1200 degrees

Thats pretty rich right there under boost, but thats safe anyway.

> - Fuel Pressure settings
> Idle 50 psi
> Boosting at 5 psi I see about 83 psi A/F guage is
>in the green. (about 1/2 down on the gas pedal)
> (3/4 of the way down I have seen 90 psi)
> - No problems with fuel cut and the missing link. No
>HRC FCD
> is installed.
>

>I have some questions. I am assuming my fuel pressures are
>right on the money. When testing the kit, I mounted the
>fuel pressure guage to the windshield wiper and didn't fully
>close the hose as to not pinch the hose. I just latched the
>hood. This way I could get an accurate reading while
>boosting. The kit instructions suggest around 85 psi of
>fuel pressure for a 5 psi boost. Do my fuel pressures look
>ok?

They look fine, and a bit rich. IMO, you can lower just a bit to fine tune. Dont go lower than 80 psi of fuel for 5 psi of boost. Just pay attention to your EGT and A/F numbers..Leaning it out just a bit may give a few more HP. Try and lower your idle fuel pressure to about 47 psi, as that will give you around 80 psi or so at WOT 5 psi boost.
>

>

Thanks for the responses. I was doing a final inspection yesterday to make sure nothing was leaking and all hose clamps were tight. I was also replacing my faulty PIAA fog light wiring harness. (PIAA's old style wiring harness had a fuse that was not replaceable. I called them and they sent me their new harness that now contains a replaceable inline fuse).

I forgot to add to my previous post that I hose clamped all rubber hose lines especially the signal lines (even though the HRC instructions do not specifically tell you to do this). I have read some posts about hoses popping off which causes people to run extremely high boost levels and possibly do engine damage. I also did not use the HRC clamps and replaced them with better high torque hose clamps (didn't overtighten though).

The only problem that I noticed while under my car yesterday was a leaking bulkhead. I thought at first is was just a loose oil return line fitting so I got a wrench and began to tighten. When I started to tighten the fitting, the whole bulkhead began to spin. Not good. I am almost positive that I tightened this as tight as I could get it. I plan to use some locktite on this fitting to prevent this from happening again. (I have installed the bulkhead with the long end going into the pan and the sealing washer on the outside of the pan. I may try to rethink a better way to seal this bulkhead from the inside - maybe a sealing washer on each side. Gonna take a look.)

Any helpful hints?


Thanks,
Kurt

hey man....:P

Good to hear your car is up and running.

the howell kit is pretty good. After bugging Gary for about 30 minutes abotu rebuild kits, I ordered one and should be on its way.

Thanks guys. I figured out my leaking oil problem. It was not the bulkhead (thank god, I didn't want to reseal the oil pan again). It was the 90 degree fitting that attached to the bulkhead. The flare flitting was not sitting flat on the bulkhead causing the oil to spray on the oil pan. I loosened the hose clamp that connected to the 90 degree fitting to the oil return line from the turbo to allow for some play and for it to sit correctly on the bulkhead, teflon pasted the threads (not the flare), tightened up the fitting (sits flat this time), and then retighted the hose clamp. All is good.


Before I put the car on the road, I will be having the downpipe welded to the stock pipe so I do not have any exhaust leaks (as well as taking of the summer wheels - a set of Racing Hart C2 Evos with Toyo Tires). All of this will be done by tomorrow. Then the car is finally finished - (it's been a long 4 weeks of installing (kit and guages) - working full time during the day and then putting a few hours towards the install at night).

I'll post pictures soon.


Thanks again,
Kurt