I finally got my laptop back, have the datalogging program from www.obd-2.com and now I'm just starting to play with it. What should my timing advance be? It's around 22-23 degrees right? I guess all that I'm asking is that is there anything else besides short term fuel trim, long term fuel trim, o2 voltages, and timing that I should be looking for and about what numbers should they all be at? I have already done a lot of searches. So if anyone can help, it would be much appreciated. TIA

You should read this recent post. It talks alot about how much timing you should have.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcforum/DCForumID16/5146.html


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As far as fuel trim is concerned, it is best to have your STFT as close to 0 as you can get it because this is the fuel trim that adjusts quickly to correct for a rich or lean condition under closed loop operation. If your LTFT is close to 0, then that's cool too, but if its around +/-20%, it's no big deal.

As for timing advance, I can't really tell you what your numbers need to be unless I know how much boost you are running. I will say that in closed loop operation, you shouldn't see much over 30 deg advance, and at WOT I'd try to keep it around 18-22 deg advance from 1-5 psi, 16-20 from 6-10 psi, and 15-18 from 11-15 psi, and so on... You can probably get away with a little more timing than that safely, but I like to stay a bit on the conservative side when I give advice ;)

Your o2 sensor 1 reading should be giving you around .93 volts at WOT in 3rd gear.

Alright, great. Thanks for the help. I'm currently running 11psi and when just cruising around I am seeing about 33.5 degrees advance between 2000 and 3000rpm. When I get close to going WOT I see about 23-26 degrees. To get the timing advance to go down a little I just richen it up on the AFC right? I do plan on buying the MSD DIS-2 ignition when I get the money. Thanks again for your help.

Yes, if you richen up the afc, it will increase your MAP sensor voltage, and thus the car will see that there is more load on the engine and, consiquently, reduce timing. What would be ideal for you to do as of right now, would be to richen up the afc as much as you can, and decrease your fuel pressures. If you do this enough, you "should" be able to get away without an MSD up to about 15 psi.

If you have an adjustable regulator, what you need to do is to set your idle fuel pressure to around 20 psi of pressure. Then richen up the afc until your STFT looks acceptable. Then re-tune the regulator to supply enough fuel with the new, richer settings on the afc. I would be willing to bet that you could get your timing to come down to around 18 deg of advance at 15 psi or so, which should be about right on.

For those of you sho have larger injectors with an safc, you really should be droping your fuel pressures and correcting for the lower fuel pressure by richening up the safc. When you lean out your fuel delivery on the safc, it reduces the MAP voltage. This is what causes the car to advance more timing and can result in engine damage if the timing is too excessive. If you can drop your fuel pressure and correct for it by richening up the settings on the safc, then it brings your MAP voltage at WOT back up to close to 4.5 volts. This way, the ecu can read more accurately the amount of load being placed on the engine and it will adjust timing accordingly. If you can keep the timing advance to around 15-18 deg of advance at around 15 psi, you should'nt have to buy anything to pull timing out as long as you dont boost any more than that. I'm not sure at what point our cars will need spark amplification, but my guess is that 15 psi is nearing that mark.

By the way sonikbewm, if I were you, I would just ditch the safc with 310cc injectors. If you have an sfmu, you can easily run those injectors without an afc, and consiquently, you won't have to tamper with the MAP signal at all. This should correct for your timing being slightly high. Although... if you were feeling like experimenting... you could drop your fuel pressure to around 15 psi at idle and try to use the SAFC to increase the MAP voltage slightly above 4.5 volts (by richening it up as much as your fuel trims will allow for). I'm not sure at what MAP voltage the car will give you fuel cut, but I estimate it to be around 4.7 volts. I am curious if our cars will reduce timing further with a slightly higher MAP voltage than 4.5 volts. My guess is that it will, in which case you could possibly pull timing enough this way to get 15 deg of advance at say 20 psi of boost... I would be very interested to see if this little trick could give you guys with an SAFC a way to acutally pull timing out slightly rather than advance it.

I'll have to try that when I get an SFMU but for now all I have is the FMU that came with the star kit and the 12:1 disk. Do you have any suggestions with that until I get the SFMU? TIA

witch one sis you buy on the wb site i might get one soon also how do you like it?

I would try replacing the 12:1 disk with a 6:1 or a 5:1 disk and richen up the safc settings. Ideally though, the sfmu is the way to go for what you are trying to do.