Alright I just got done rebuilding this thing. So I'm just driving along not doing any wierd stuff or anything...and it just dies! So I of course try to start it, and nothing...but is sounds like there is low compression, like it turns over really easy. So I get it towed home by a freind, and check my timing belt. It is right on time. So I'm like ok what next? So I do a compression check, and NONE of the cylndrs so any compression! What the hell is this all about? Is the head gasket blown? I would have thought that at least 3 of them would be ok? Any help would be greatly apprecieated!

maybe one of your sensors came out? check the main onces out...

Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
Stage 3 process begins anyone got a 420a block thats not spun/head for sale?

http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

If you have no compression than maybe your valves are stuck open.

I just check the sensors and the valves. Both ok....I just don't know what I am going to do with this POS. I will re align the timing belt agin. and try that, but....it is not looking good for me. :( I was hoping that the timing belt just jumped time, but it did not look like that was it. If it had jumped time that would explain why I got no compression.
I thought that usually when you blow a head gasket, you can still drive the car...???? Right?

pull the dipstick.....if its a muddy brown its the headgasket...

Whne I blew my hadgasket as well as melted 2 pistons I had some compression in the cylinders. If you have zero compression there must be something else going on. Having zero compression is almost impossible.

def check you timing, and belt. there is no way to build 0 psi of pressure unless your rings are completly gone. My guess is timing is way off, the belt jumped somehow. Hopefully you didnt bend any valves in the process, which could by why you have no compression, as bent valves can stick open.. Remember, the timing marks will only be in line all together with every 2 revolutions.. not at every crank revolution..How did you set the timing belt tension? How did you go about it?.. sorry to hear this bro :( Isnt this FUN!!! :P

My oil is clear as a bell. It must be the timing belt. I set the tensioner just like the book says. Compress it with a vice get some tension. Lock it down, then pull the pin out!
Which pistons have to be at TDC? 2&3 or 1&4?

O yea. I took off the timing belt and spun the cam's and watched the valves. They seemed to all move up and down ok. Nothing staying down or up at all.

If you look on the crank timing belt gear, you will see the little arrow on the outer lip of that, and when that lines up with the arrow on the block, pistons 1 and 4 are at TDC. Thats where you want to be when lining up your cam gear marks. All three of these marks will only be in line every other crank revolution. So when setting the timing, you want the crank gear arrows lined up with the cam gears also lined up. Did you use a torqure wrench on the tensioner pulley bolt to put 20 ft lbs of tension on the tensoiner while the tensioner body itself was bolted down? Thats VERY important.

No I didn't. Fuck beans. I bet i just didn't have the tensioner set all the way. Seemed tight! Shit I will take it and put it all to gether again tommorow. Wish me luck.

thanks for all the help guys!

Two people may help to do it. Here is how i did it. BEFORE i had loosend the tensioner plunger body, i put a little rivit(or nail) in the tensioner holes to keep the tensioner depressed when i loosened it. Works great.(assuming proper belt tension was there previously) When putting it back on, you want to have the crank gear arrow 1 belt notch toward the firwall, in front of the arrow on the block. Then thread on the new belt, staring at the crank gear, then around the waterpump, then the cams. when its around the last cam gear, it should be tight to that point. Be sure the cam gear marks are still lined up ( - - ) Now thread the belt over the tensioner pulley,then turn the crank back to line up the marks, and I used a 1/2" drive, click-type torque wrench, put it on the tensior pulley, and pull back on the wrench till it clicks at the setting of 20 ft lbs. Hold the wrech steady with that torque. Now, at the same time, you want to push up on the tensioner plunger body as tightly as you can, up against the tensioner pulley. I used a big flat blade screw driver to pry up on it tightly against the tensioner pulley. Now while you are doing both of these things, tighten down the tensioner body to the block. Now, if the tension is correct, you should be able to let off the torqure wrench, and pull out the pin from the tensioner. If you cant, or the pin is really tight, RE DO THE TENSION!! Its not perfect until that pin pulls out with very little resistance. IMO, you may have damaged the old tensioner plunger, or its just plain worn out. I would get a new one if i were you...unfortunately, they are not cheap, 100+ bucks, only available at the dealer...but i wounldnt put it back together without a new one IMO. Using a vice, gently compress it, and put in the nail. It should be rather hard to compress with the vice also..

No your right I did install it incorectly. I just used a screwdriver to get it tight. That damn tensioner is the reason I lost my first timing belt! I had to buy a new one about 2 years ago.
I did compress it but the pin was hard to pull out this time. I bet I just jumped time! Not good. Well none of us are perfect, as I prove this to myself.

ahh its ok man :) I always say you learn the most from making mistakes. I've had my fare share of em..Just do it the way i described, and you will be fine. Your tensioner may be ok, its up to you if you want to replace it..