My inline fuel pump that came w/my HRC kit quit working last weekend. I hooked it up directly to the battery, and it wont power up or anything. HRC will replace it under warranty..but they wont send me one until I send the broken one in...and I cant afford downtime.

That means my only option is to buy another pump, install it, then send the broken one in.

Does anyone have an inline fuel pump I could grab? Or know where I can get one? There are none on ebay...so I'm kind of struck. I can't boost, this sucks, and Ive gotta get this taken care of.

Just don't boost until you get the new pump. Or buy a Walbro. You can get them for less than $100.

Where do I get a Wlbro for less than 100 bucks?

Reminder regarding the Walbro Ryan: the Walbro is an excellent fuel pump capable of mucho fuel delivery. However, it can not sustain enough fuel delivery with fuel pressures over 100 psi. This means, it'll work great for ~80 psi and below, but anything over 90-95 psi, I wouldn't chance it. (And I know how playing things safe is important to you)

(i.e. find an inline fuel pump) I know you don't want to take off all of those fittings.

Anyone have an inline fuel pump I can buy or know where I can get one for 100 or less?

I suggested a walbro becasuse I thought you were stage one and had low pressures. I've never used stock injectors. Sorry.

What about the Walbro "high pressure" pump? It should go to 110-120 psi @ 13v.

www.autoperformanceengineering.com

Cheap, quick and the guy is awesome. Never had a problem when dealing with him :)

I sent them an email the other day and still havn't got. I'll give those guys a call later. I couldn't find the high pressure one on their site so I asked through email. Know how much off hand?

like 98 for the regular, 113 for the high pressure if I remember correctly

Guys... we've had this discussion before, but lately, I've seen more and more references in regard to the sufficiency of the Walbro 255-lph- HP with stock injectors. So for me, it's worth revisiting the topic for a brief refresher.

This combination is simply NOT safe fueling combination, or at least theoretically not capable of providing enough fuel at fuel pressures exceeding 85-90psi. I certainly wouldn't chance it on any hard 3rd gear pulls. (and remember, even a stage 1 kit requires fuel pressures in the 80-90psi area)

With fuel pressures exceeding 80-90 psi, even the HIGH PRESSURE Walbro won't cut it! Read both the sites cited by Steve (Sandman) and the graph at vfaq.com, specifically highlighting the tables and graphs. They correctly show the amount of fuel delivered with fuel pressures exceeding 80-90 psi. As you can see, the GPH cuts more than in half at those fuel pressures. Over 100 psi, the GPH reduces to close to zero!

I really like the table at Auto Performance. It spells out exactly how much fuel is delivered, even taking into account an additional graph subsequent to a fuel pump rewire.

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fuelpump.html

The graph at VFAQ is even MORE generous about fuel delivery than the table at Auto Perfomance at high fuel pressures, but it still sends the same message that fuel pressures above 100 psi greatly reduce the amount of fuel delivered.



ADDENDUM: This issue has been well hashed out before, but here's a TERRIFIC discussion on the very topic that took place a good while back: http://forums.2gnt.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi?az=read_count&om=259&forum=DCForumID16 (As a matter of fact, I think I slapped my inline pump on my car after this discussion.)

Thanks Jason for finding that link... Jan 01 was a LONG time ago hehe.

Anyway, I'll throw up a FAQ on Fuel setups on the main page just for our reference.

Also, in your opinion for a stage 2 level of boost what would be your "ideal" fuel setup?

>Also, in your opinion for a stage 2 level of boost what
>would be your "ideal" fuel setup?

In my mind, an ideal setup is one that can reasonably attained for an amount of money that won't put a person under, can meet the needs of 200-250 HP, and is still upgradeable enough for HP's reaching above the 300 HP mark, since I think 300-350 HP is a common LONG term goal amongst moost if not all 2GNTer's.

"ideal" really gives me a all the money in the world to work with, so I will make the assumption that you mean within reasonable means. Here's the order in which I would rank them though:

1) Some sort of standalone ECU with injectors ranging in size of 350cc-650cc's. A 1:1 FPR and a Walbro 255lph fuel pump. (price $1300-$1500) This setup provides the most precise level of tuning and upgradeablity.

2) An Extra Injector Controller and injectors of stock size, with 4 more injectors at stock size(or ANY size you can get your hands on; stock size is good for a tad over 300HP). A 1:1 FPR, injector bungs, and a Walbro 255lph fuel pump. (price: $550-$650 +welding job on intake manny) The setup is also very precise in its fueling, but doesn't do anything for timing. The upgradeability of this setup is very high(really almost limitless, leaving only the very highest HP freaks requiring more. (This is the one I have :-) ) Essentially, you can add the stock fuel injectors and the add'l ones to a size fuel injector that wouldn't normally be available with normal OEM fuel controls.(ex. 235cc + 235cc= 470cc injectors for CHEAP-O) Lot's of custom work on the intake manny and tuning is its only downfall. But a good # of people have already done the work, so you can just follow our lead.

3) S-AFC and moderately larger injectors (310cc-450cc's). Adjustable FPR and inline fuel pump. (price: $600-$900) I don't recommend any larger since, (notwithstanding some people who are able to lean out larger injectors at idle), I don't want to even imagine the add'l costs as a result of gas mileage, fouled plugs, and bad O2 sensors. This setup works. There's no doubt about it. It's good for HP levels approaching 300+ HP as well. However, I think we can do better. The precision of tuning isn't as defined IMO, and the upgradebility is also limited. Corbin has also brought to light how timing can detrimentally be effected with the S-AFC.

4) Larger injectors (235cc-310cc's), adjustable FPR, and inline fuel pump. (price: $200-$400) As you might guess, the cheapest, least amount of work, least amount of upgradeability, and least amount of precision tuning. It's effectiveness and reliability has a lot to be desired. More people detonate their cars with this setup than any other, whether you drive a 2GNT or a Honda. Your only source of tuning is raising the fuel pressure to insane amounts, and hope you have a fuel pump(s) that works well and can blast through the insane fuel pressures that work against it. It's probably only used a lot since it's so damn cheap for the turbo kit manufactuers to produce. If price were no object, all turbo kit makers would at the very least provide everyone with either new or add'l injectors and a piggyback fuel computer. However, they do not, and the bottom line is their ruler.

Whew! That's my take!