Looks like I was getting faulty readings from my boost gauge...I was always seeing -20 at idle, even if i pulled some of the vac lines CREATING a leak. And I only saw 5psi all the time, sometimes it would seem to go to 6 but fall back quickly.
I now think that I may have been pushing more like 9-10psi of boost, non intercooled! This would explain why my FP was always at about 50-55 - 60 idle and 90+ boosting!
No wonder the damn thing blew!
I have not confermed this yet but will be re routing my VAC/BOOST line tommorrow.

>I now think that I may have been pushing more like 9-10psi
>of boost, non intercooled! This would explain why my FP was
>always at about 50-55 - 60 idle and 90+ boosting!

Im non-intercooled, hitting 4psi....my idle fuel pressure is about 55psi, and WOT fp is about 90....Which is correct isn't it? If so, how do those numbers refect your problem when boosting 9-10psi? Are you saying your fp was way too low?

p.s. Excuse me if I sound repetitive...its how I learn. Same question a few times, stated in different ways kind of assures me I know the material.

It shouldnt really matter where your vac line was hooked into, as long as its connected near the intake mani, usually teed off or connected to the "Y" piece on there. And Ryan, you must remember that R&R has a T-25 setup. This turbo will flow less cfm's(less air) at each pound of boost than the S16G turbo on the Hahn kit. Fuel pressure for the Hahn kit is recomended at 47-55 psi at full idle vacum, around 15-20 hg's of vac. Static fuel pressure( 0 psi on the boost gauge), should be around 55 psi. At 6 psi of boost for the Hahn kit, fuel pressure should be 80-90 psi. R&R, if you were truly boosting 4 psi, i would guess a good fuel pressure for that would be around 75-80 psi. If you were hitting 90 psi of fuel pressure, that would be good for around 7 psi maybe? Its really hard to say, since not many have the T-25 setup on our cars. But def be sure your boost gauge vac line is on a good manifold vac source, and get a new boost gauge to make it all good. Either way, use an egt gauge and and air/fuel gauge to make sure what your o2 voltages are under WOT. I just simply used a good voltmeter to tune the o2 voltages. The blinky light gauge is somewhat vauge on exactly what your running..

Yea I have it tapped into the "y", I think that it may be in the setup of the boost gauge itself. (I really did a horrible job with this one, using the line that came with it. It ended up costing me like another 20 bucks for brass fittings to make it work!) Basically I did a crappy job of putting it together! Looks like it cost me 2 engines!
Yea I use a blinky light and a volt meter, I wish I did have an EGT but I havent bought one yet. Mabey soon. ok SOON!