Is there an optimal EGT when running with a turbo??..Too low and the gas is not moving fast enough, too high and your engine will detonate. When people remove their EGR system is this also to lower the EGT, lean out more and raise up the temp. I don't have a EGT gauge, cuz I don't really have any tuning capabilites but am thinking of taking of the EGR or just leaving the pipe there (CA smog reasons) and putting blocking plates. I have some whack gas mileage right now 20-22 MPG and I know it's not boost related (i have no FMU hooked up). THanks

ALvin
96 RST
http://www.kaptainmyke.com/tir/gallery/SemperBoost
Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / Nology wires / Dual Gaugepod pillar mount / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Upper/Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar
X-drilled rotors / Axxis pads / Stock GS/GST sideskirts /Color-matched center taillight/ door handles/ sideviews
Cleared Headlight turns/PIAA bulbs

I've read somewhere in this board that optimal EGT for turbos is between 1550-1650.

People's EGT's seem to vary somewhat, depending on what they are using as a fuel setup, ect..I can tell you this, when i blocked off my EGR, i took out that metal pipe, and used metal plates to block it off, i noticed about a good 50 degree cooler EGT temps on the gauge. Thats always a good thing. When not under boost, your EGT's will be nearly the same as a N/A car. Under boost, EGT's at WOT should not really go past 1600. For max power and A/F ratio, at WOT, you should see around 1550 on the EGT's. Slightly higher is ok, but its a tad lean. Slightly lower is also ok, but slightly rich, but some like to tune slightly rich, wich is a good idea. My EGT's on a long WOT pull, will reach around 1575. I suppose i may richen it up just a bit to lower them.. Also your A/F voltage will correspond with the EGT gauge readings, you want to shoot for around .93 volts at WOT for max power and A/F ratio values..

Hey Matt did your gas mileage go down with the EGR blockoff mod. I'm thinking of taking that wretched thing off probably after I get my T/B bored

96 RST

http://www.kaptainmyke.com/tir/gallery/SemperBoost
Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / Nology wires / Dual Gaugepod pillar mount / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Upper/Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar
X-drilled rotors / Axxis pads / Stock GS/GST sideskirts /Color-matched center taillight/ door handles/ sideviews
Cleared Headlight turns/PIAA bulbs

>Hey Matt did your gas mileage go down with the EGR blockoff
>mod. I'm thinking of taking that wretched thing off
>probably after I get my T/B bored
>
>96 RST
>

Well I haven't really figured out my gas miliage for a long time now, but I do go through gas pretty good, but i do boost damn near all the time also, at least a few psi most the time. If I would have to take a good guess, I would say yes, it will hurt your gas miliage just a little. This is mostly due to longer engine warm up periods. The EGR is used mostly at startup with a cold engine, to help it warm up faster, and keep warm up emissions at the least amount. It def takes longer to warm up now, I'd say twice as long.. Since it takes longer to warm up, the engine stays richer for longer at warm up, hence using more fuel..

Have any of you EGR-less guys removed the vac lines and EVERYTHING that was EGR related or just used blocking plates? I blocked mine awhile back and I still get CEL 32 but I have just the plates I made for it. I'd rather get rid of all of it if I'm going to get the CEL all the time.

I just took out that metal pipe and replaced it with metal plates to block off the port on the intake mani, and the port on the egr valve, and left all vac and electrial connectors on. I get no CEL. The ECU still thinks its recirculating, it has no way to know if its not. If you are getting a CEL check your vac lines, and be sure the egr itself is working..

I ripped it all out.. f*&K it ;-)

I'm tempted! Do you get a CEL? I'm getting real tired of looking at it in the morning, it sticks out like a sore thumb.

The EGR valve works of a vacuum..the more vacumm the more it opens. If you hook up a vac line and put an inline check valve so that it only sees boost, maybe that'll do something.
On another note..the EGR system recirculates exhaust gas at cruising speed, I don't think it is used as a warm-up device. This recirculation is supposed to help detonation by riching the mixture but the thing I don't get is that it makes the intake hotter which leads to detontation. I don't like it...I think my valve is stuck open making my car run hot. I'll block it off over the weekend

Alvin
96 RST


http://www.kaptainmyke.com/tir/gallery/SemperBoost
Star Stage I turbo kit /Starion I/C w/ 2" chrome piping / GReddy Type-S BOV / Missing Link / Custom APEXi- GReddy 2.5" exhaust / Nology wires / Dual Gaugepod pillar mount / APEXi EL mech boost gauge / Autometer A/F gauge / Southland Dual Friction clutch / B&M short shifter / Energy Suspension shifter bushings / 16" GSX Rims / Front/ Rear camberkits / Eibach Prokits / Tokico Blues/ Front Upper, Rear Upper/Lower strut bars / Rear GST sway bar
X-drilled rotors / Axxis pads / Stock GS/GST sideskirts /Color-matched center taillight/ door handles/ sideviews
Cleared Headlight turns/PIAA bulbs