as you all know, i just made it through a rebuild + new injectors
well, today i tried to boost for the first time
was in second, and i hit it- took it mostly to the top and then shifted and let off
the problem was that my fuel pres. did not go up one bit
i have 310's and the 8:1 disk for my FMU
base fuel pres. sits right at 50, just like when i had my stocks and the 12:1
i hit about 5-6 lbs. of boost and let off because i got scared-
the car bogged a little when i went to third
i checked the vacuum line at the FMU- seems to be on
i remember installing the disks correctly- little plate inside of metal ring with the gap of the ring facing the piston

the problem right now is that i don't know how to locate the lines for my boost guage and FMU as i did not personally install them

what should i look for
also- i remember someone saying that i should draw my boost source direct from the turbo- how? how is it connected to the intake manifold?
and how do i connect the vacuum line from the b.o.v. to the intake mani?

i just want to be able to let her sing

many thanks

jean-pierre

what fmu do you have? the standard or super? either way, it goes like this, ring, then disk, then rubber diaghram, then spring plate, spring, another spring plate and then the fmu cover. if you do not have all these things then it will not work. if you have all this then check your vacuum lines. if that is okay and you have a sfmu, turn the boost port screw all the way in.
that's all i can think of now
lates
jam

ok- i took apart the FMU today to see if i incorrectly installed the disc
turns out that i didn't
i have the regular FMU
there is no spring or any extra stuffs
there is a piston (that apparently has the capability of falling out if not held in place), there is first the ring, then the plate, then the diaphragm, and then the cover, and then the 6 screws.
while looking at it today, i could not figure out how it works because it does not seem as if there is any travel space for the piston
...the diagram does not show a spring or anything like that

as far as vacuum lines are concerned- i think that in my previous post i thought as far as to check the vacuum lines...i believe the issue was LOCATING them...
it is very difficult for me to trace the line as i do not have the ability to get the car off the ground- so is there anything specific i should look for ?
repetition is disgusting when it exists merely to affirm self



thanks again

jean-pierre

to find the vacuum lines look behind the intake manifold. they are about the size of a break line (black rubber hoses). YOur problem could very well be that who ever installed these tapped them all off of one "main" line coming off the intake manifold. If this is the case and you have several vacuum lines coming off of each other then your problem could be that you are loosing the "pressure signal". so your FMU and boost gauge and bov (or whatever else you have coming off the line) are not getting a strong enough signal and are not working properly. Try and tap every vacuum line directly into the intake manifold, so that all parts get an exact boost and vacuum reading.

Late.

will check the car again tonight
last time i looked at the intake mani i remember seeing many points to which vacuum lines can connect...is there anything i should watch out for on the manifold?
are you trying to say that new lines should be tapped for each unit?
someone earlier posted about drawing a boost signal directly from the turbo- what does this mean?

i love you


jean-pierre

well, there is this thing on the back of the manifold that points towards the firewall that looks like a Y, actually it looks like a crows foot a three pronged Y, that is where your vacuum lines should be hooked up to. an easy way to see if you are getting a signal is to start the car, then remove the vac line from the fmu, then put your finger on the open hose and feel if there is any vacuum. don't worry about taking a boost signal from the turbo, you don't need to it will mess things up for the fmu.
lates
james

yes...the y connector exists- i saw it
i also unplugged it like you suggested
the car made a weird noise and i heard a sucking sound so i got scared and plugged it back in...i assume that means that it is functioning properly

so i have been wondering about this as well...
there is a large hole on the wastegate with the inscription "vacuum" above it...it is right next to the hex nut that can be turned to tighten the wastegate for incresed boost
what is this for?

there is also a vacuum line going from the turbo to the wastegate
am i expected to t this off and tap a line for the boost guage?
...thus allowing me to use the other opening off the manifold for the b.o.v.

why do we need to pull vac from the b.o.v. ?

...nothing seems to be pinched...but maybe something is- need to get the car in the air to see

any ideas?
i have no clue what is going on
everything worked fine before the rebuild...

oh yeah! there is something i saw on the end of the fuel rail
it looks like a valve...nothing is plugged in here, but it looks like something could be attached...what is this?
i can get a picture of it...how do i attach photos ?

jean-pierre

help...please?

>yes...the y connector exists- i saw it
>i also unplugged it like you suggested
>the car made a weird noise and i heard a sucking sound so i
>got scared and plugged it back in...i assume that means that
>it is functioning properly

Sounds like it is working.

>so i have been wondering about this as well...
>there is a large hole on the wastegate with the inscription
>"vacuum" above it...it is right next to the hex nut that can
>be turned to tighten the wastegate for incresed boost
>what is this for?

I do not know which wastegate you have so I can not help you with that one.

>there is also a vacuum line going from the turbo to the
>wastegate
>am i expected to t this off and tap a line for the boost
>guage?
>...thus allowing me to use the other opening off the
>manifold for the b.o.v.

No, do not t off of that line. You will not get an accurate boost reading. You want to take your vac line from the TB to the boost guage for the most accurate reading of boost.

>why do we need to pull vac from the b.o.v.?

You are not pulling vac from the BOV you are attaching a vac line to the BOV so it will know when the pressure drops thus opening the BOV and saving your turbo. Any vac line will do, I used the vac line going to my EGR since we blocked it off.

>...nothing seems to be pinched...but maybe something is-
>need to get the car in the air to see
>
>any ideas?
>i have no clue what is going on
>everything worked fine before the rebuild...

Most likely it is not, but here is what I did. I took one of the vac nipples and ran my FMU straight off the TB. So that it would be sure to get a good signal. Then I t-ed everything off existing lines. That is what I would do. You can use the same vac line that goes to your boost controller to t for your boost guage, that is what I did and it seems to be working good.

>oh yeah! there is something i saw on the end of the fuel
>rail
>it looks like a valve...nothing is plugged in here, but it
>looks like something could be attached...what is this?
>i can get a picture of it...how do i attach photos ?

I do not know what you are talking about here. If you do get a picture you have to have it hosted on a website and then just put the link in the message link this:

http://www.boosted-rs.com/images/2gntsticker.jp g (minus the space at the end)

If I took out the space this is what would happen:

ok...
as far as the place that says vacuum on the westgate, nothing plugs into that. you only have one line that goes from the wesgate to either the compressor or the intake manifold (which will fix teh psi loss you get from the intercooler).
don;t plug anything into the valve at the end of the fuel rail, that is there to release the fuel pressure.
as far as tapping the vacuum lines to the back of the intake manifold, if you cant tap all of them directly then try and do the main ones. Those would be the wesgate one (so that it will open when you get the desired boost), and the fmu one (so that you get enough fuel at boost). the bov one and the boost gauge one can be tapped into some other line coming off the back of the manifold.

the bov needs to see vacuum to know when to let the compresed air release into the atmosphere.

make sure you check all the vacuum lines to the different instruments and make sure that they are all properly plugged.

hope this answered most of your questions.

Late

one thing, does the blue diaghram have any tears or cuts in it?
lates
james

went to the auto parts store today
bought some vacuum line
hooked the b.o.v. to the intake mani t'd together with the FMU
routed the boost guage to the throttle body

now the boost guage is much more responisve
and my fuel problems are solved !!!
odd how it took only a tiny bit of rerouting- because it worked just
fine pre-rebuild

hit 8/9/10 lbs of boost- fuel rises to around 80 psi
on one run my boost spiked to 15 for about a second
so i turned the boost down
smells really rich though

have not tried any partial throttle play yet
am still in shock of being able to boost
but i think i will go ahead and get a missing link
...not as impressive as 9.6:1, but still a thing of beauty
am thinking of sitting at 9/10 lbs until afc and ignition

i thank you all for your help
am so happy now!


has anyone tried using 2/14 inner diam. fuel hose as intercooler piping ? i need new pipes but don't have the cash- my b.o.v. flutters like crazy and power is really odd...if i used a segment of aluminum for the b.o.v., the restriction should be minimal and flutter should go away yes ?

i live in houston, but go to school in the ny area (1 hr away from albany...somewhat near limerock)...so if anyone is around here and wants to meet up...im down

kisses

jean-pierre

if by fluttering you mean a gobbling turkey sound hehe, me and a few others had that..i took the pipe off between the air filter and the compressor and that solved it, now all i hear is a steady whooossshhh.
don't know why, maybe something to do with x-tra air trapped in that little pipe, but it makes the bov stop doing that anoying sound. Hope that solves your problem also.

Late