its been some time and i was wondering when we are going to hear more about the custom 2.5" dp for the hrc turbo guys? jason was the prototype.. any news yet?



Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

http://www.teamert.com/

Sorry for the hold up guys. Steve just got back from vacation, and I believe that Jason is still on vacation. As soon as he gets back, he will be getting the dp installed on his car for testing. I will keep you posted on updates so that you don't have to check the website for information.

Dont we already have 2.5" downpipes?

I just sent an email to Matt at ERT. I just got back on vacation this last weekend, and have been a bit busy catching up.

(just picked up a 91 Subaru Legacy AWD for a winter driver. No more winters for the talon! :-) )

the stock dp is 2 and 1/4 and the hrc dp is the same size .. sounds good to me guys.. keep us updated..thanks



Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

I had a 2.5" dp designed in 99 that has been on my car since I first went turbo. ;) Good luck with the design. :)

The design and build is already done.

I'm building the jig tonight. I should have the first production model out by Sunday if things go good. Then it's off to Jason for the test runs and a beating.

Also, this is a 2 piece design that will slip right into the car. you wont have to unbolt your turbo. Easy in easy out. The problem with the thrid bolt still exists, but is nowhere near as bad as it was on the hahn dp.

for this killer 3rd bolt, how must we go about removing it? do we still got to drop the fan and get a small wrench to remove it?


Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

I don't think there is a way around this 3rd bolt problem that you all been experiencing. After seeing my BF cussing at the DP, I think all he can ask for is for the curve of the piping and the flange to be placed where you can slide a 14mm wrench in there to tighten the upper pipe before connecting the flange.

Just a thought.

Having seen these guys at work making this piece, you guys are in good hands. You don't need to take the radiator out to get to that last bolt, it's just slow going.

Una salus victus.
"We are going to have peace even if we have to fight for it." - Dwight D. Eisenhower

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All motor in the making.

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, P&P Intake Manifold, Hooker Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, Crane Fireball HI-6DI2, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730, Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: P&P Milled Head, Rear Disc Brakes, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors & Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, SS Brake Lines

Like I said before, nothing needs to be removed from the car to get the dp in or out. The 2 piece design allows you to put the top half straight in, then the bottom half bolts right up to the cat. The O2 sensor remains in its stock location as well. With the third bolt on the Hahn Dp, you have to turn the nuts a little then back off the dp then turn them more then back off a little more. With ours, you still have to turn and back off, but you can get more spins and it takes less than half the time. You can ask Jason or Mike if you don't believe me, they were there.

Jason will be posting a full write up on this as well as soon as we get him out to put it on his car.

Thanks

Matt