I have Star kit Stage II, MSD Dis-2 (switch prog) and a Turbine housing change at .48, Turbonetics MBC and a Tanabe style muffler(piping are stock). I am boosting at 10psi with everything stock exept for above mention. My first dyno test result was 208.4hp at 6.3k rpm and 194.2 torque at 5.2k rpm with FMU disc at 12:1 and the mechanic told me my fuel is too rich and I was detonating. So he turned down the fuel by changing the FMU disc to 8:1, Set the MSD to retard at 4k in 2 degrees and regap the spark at .030. Dyno tested again and it came out at 213.5hp at 6k and 205.4 torque at 4.9k without the engine detonating. All of this are at the wheels. I was really surprise with the power. I have been boosting with out tunning and have not dynoed for almost 3 years now. I got it done at Turbo Tech. in Tacoma, Washington about 35 miles from my place. So what do you guys think about the 8:1 ratio on the FMU and a .030 gap on the sparkplug? It wasn't too rich or too lean on air/fuel ratio tho. Should I regap the spark? They charged too much on dyno testing, $39.99 each pull. We did about 5 pull on the dyno, almost all of it are in between 205 to 214 hp.

I'll post the dyno sheet later...

you have upgraded injectors also? if not its hard to believe your EGT's werent through the roof at 10psi, i would think it would be WAY lean. but, if it works it works i guess... :-)

I don't have upgraded injectors. I just bought an EGT today and installing later when I get my three gauge pod. I got a quick question, is pyrometer gauge the same as an EGT gauge? I got that instead of the EGT gauge cause its cheaper. They have the same numbering on the gauge, is just say that its pyrometer instead of Exhaust temp.

same thing as egt.. i got the same also as well as some others on the board...



Michael 99gs
HRC Stage 2
http://www.dreamwater.net/purplebeast

Hey man, thanks. How come the installation says to put the probe by the exhaust side of the turbo? But in the write up here says to put it by the 4th cylinder exhaust side, which one is the correct way?

Pyrometer is cheaper and is slower reacting. I do not think it comes with the electrical box that takes the temp from the probe and turns it into a electrical signal. My autometer egt can also use different probes. I am currently using a street probe. The race probe is really fast reacting. The TRE probe is suppose to work pretty good as well. For actual facts, check the autometer site on probes.

All I can say is damn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 10psi, stock injectors, 8:1 fmu and you are not monitoring egt. Timing retard probably just saved your motor. I am sure your temps were around 1700 degrees. You may have gained a few HP, but you are running too lean. The stock cat and piping might have helped you as well. It tends to make our car run a bit richer and give us lots less power than it is capable of.

Did he use a wideband O2 on your car to actually see/tune your A/F ratio when he said you were running to rich? or did he just go off the dyno hp/torque numbers?

they didn't use a wide O2 sensor cuz' there is no hole for it in the downpipe. They wanna charge me $45 for the hole and another $75 to do another tunning. I spent $39.99 for the first dyno, $75 for tunning going with the dyno and $50 for 5 extra pull on the dyno. Men, that's expensive!!!

Is it just me or should those #'s be higher. When I dyno'ed and spiked to 10 1/2 psi I put out 197 HP to wheels. I got stock piping and even skinnier piping going to my 2nd exhaust and I had oil blowing out the breather.(for those of u who forgot or dont read my sig I blew up on the dyno). Be happy you were to rich instead of me being to lean.
-Dave

the numbers were a little low cause the dude who tuned his car shouldnt tune his car again. timing retard at 10psi(dont need it). 8:1 disk with stock injectors=crazy. please please PLEASE put your 12:1 disk back in. if not you WILL blow your motor fairly quickly. or get some 30lb injectors. dont go back there...find a place with a REAL wideband, thats the only way to actually tune something correctly. you could get rich A/F readings at 10psi with the 12:1 disk and stock injectors, but your fuel presure would be really high, and EGT's would be way up there. timing retard saved your engine from that dude, but it also gave you low dyno numbers. i wish they would start selling all the kits with upgraded injectors. our small injectors probably account for 95% of all the blown stock motors around here.

Thanks dude. I'll probably stop by and get the disk back.

What did they use to determine you where rich if not a wideband?

They were going with my Air/Fuel gauge and my dyno results. But they are not sure if my a/f gauge is accurate tho., cuz'it is hook up to the factory O2 sensor and it was bouncing to lean and rich most of the time.

This is a bit off-topic but i'm still running insanely high boost levels with my stage 1. I have stock injectors and caught an 11psi pull for about 1000 rpms in 3rd gear. My motor now has 4000 miles on it, and i'm getting ready to make a track run with it in 2 weeks. I have an i/c but no piping yet. I'm getting 6psi in 1st, 8psi in 2nd, and 10-11psi in 3rd gear. How much longer can i do this and what can i do to get my boost level back down??






Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 2 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / JL Audio 500/1 amp / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1

Maybe abvout 2-3 more times. Seriously....Dont run 11 psi without a intercooler. Its crazy!!! Your egt's must be through the roof!!!

um yeah, what dave said. i've hit 10 psi max a few times while i was tuning my profecB or if it was really cold out and i was worried about my engine and made sure to do a comp test afterward, AND I HAVE A BIGASS FMIC. get the ic hooked up and sort out some kindof of boost control.

Seems a little low to me too. If you take into account the general rule of thumb, about 11-12 hp for each pound of boost, you should be around 250 HP at the crank, and if your 5 spd, a 15% drivetrain loss, you are around 217-220 at the wheels..So really, its not that low, but I'm sure you can squeeze some more HP out of it..

HIonPSI: Dude, you got some problems with your kit man! If you dont have any sort of boost controller on the turbo, you should never really go past 5 psi, at all. The wastgate spring for the Stage 1 kit is set to 5 psi, so it shouldn't go over that. I would look into that right away..it shouldn't be spiking like that..now if you have a boost controller on the turbo, turn it down, or that may be faulty..

I'm really open to any suggestions!!! I think i'm going to call Hahn on Monday to see what they can do. here's the deal, I stay at 4psi EXACTLY until 5250-5500rpm, then it starts climbing, and doesn't stop. I have no MBC or any other form of boost controller, but since I didn't think you could make a wastegate at 4psi, i don't know how Hahn made theirs. The guy who bulit my engine thought it might have been some rigged thing. My buddy has an 8psi wastegate for a S16G, and i was thinking about seeing if it'd fit, and maybe stop the boost climb. I was told since my engine has a lowered compression, i could give 1 or 2 psi to my advantage, so, if his theory is right, it would be safe. I had a custom downpipe made, had it fitted the same size as the downpipe included with the S16G, had the catalytic converter removed, in addition to my GReddy EVO (non-turbo spec) exhaust. Still, i would expect a 1-2lb. increase in boost due to that, not 6-7!!!





Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 2 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / JL Audio 500/1 amp / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1

What does bill think of this? eh? eh? :)





Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

MODS: 8.8:1 JE Pistons / Eagle rods / Stage 1 Hahn turbocharger / Melling Oil Pump / Autometer 5" tach / 2 JL 12" W0 subwoofers / JL Audio 500/1 amp / Clarion 230w amp / short shifter mod / GReddy EVO exhaust / custom 2 1/2" downpipe / no cat con / CM Stage 1

Can someone clear something up? You have a 12:1 disk at 10psi boost? Won't that raise FP like 120psi? Plus stock static pressure you have like 180psi fuel pressure at 10psi boost. Am I missing something?

i've got a 3# spring in my wastegate. and as far as fuel pressure goes, for a while i was running INSANELY HIGH fuel pressures, as in the other day i turned off my car and it wouldn't turn on. i cranked it looking at the gauge and it was hitting over 100psi while cranking! you can't beat that, lol... but yeah, i know you have a built engine, but you need the fuel to back it up before you can up the boost like that. i'd say call hrc about the wastegate problem and get u're boost down to where it should be, and then worry about upgrading the fuel system so you can THEN up the boost.

damn I need to tune my car it's running way rich. those are some good number to the crank that's like 220-230? Hmm maybe I should get an 8:1 disc too....