As some of you might know, I'm constructing my own kit using the stock turbo off a gsx, (t-25) but Im' going non intercooled first. Now I have everything sitting in my garage, just waiting to get put on, but b4 I do, I really want to play it safe. Can't afford to detonate anything. I already hooked up my boost gauge, a.f gauge, and am just waiting for my EGT to come in. Now my question to you guys, is is there a way to set my boost on the turbo to low boost? I'm thinking 4-5 lbs is safe but some other ppl have told me i can go up to 6 lbs. I don't know guys, I tried to talk to some of the other guys on the turbo webpages but those @$$holes just laughed me off, I hope one of you can help me, thanks guys

Definitely come here for questions concerning turboing the 420a. Most 4g63 guys haven't even seen our engines, and a lot of them have a chip on their shoulder (which some people on this board can easily take away). This is what I was told when I asked the club DSM which I am a member of, on their opinions between Star and HRC:

"Just sell the GS and buy a GS-T or GSX!
hahahahahaha."

So this is the place to come :)

You need to get a boost controller to keep the boost down, but I think the lowest you can go is 5psi. That is what I was told by a friend who has a T-25 on his TSi AWD. If I remember correctly, the T-25 has an internal wastegate, so that shouldn't be a problem. THE biggest concern you should have is your fuel system. Upgraded fuel pump, FPR, and make sure all your gauges are installed before testing the enging to make sure it responds correctly. If you have everything needed, I think 5psi is perfect. If the engine can take 5psi non-intercooled from a HRC super 16G, it should have no problem with a T-25.

Jeff

http://gs.dsmpower.com

Thanks, yeah, I have most of the gauges installed, however regarding the MBC, I have heard that the stock turbos do not need it? Now if it's true Im not too sure, somebody on another message board just told me that there's a screw that I can use to adjust it, if I know the settings, if anybody knows any more info, that would be great or if they know what the stock boost setting is at?

Talk to Wyatt about playing with those tiny little screws :P
Not at all dependable, and could cost $$$ to fix any problems that a $40 MBC could avoid. I would buy the MBC just for safety's sake.

Jeff

http://gs.dsmpower.com

http://members.dencity.com/xtdsm

are you guys sure you can run 5 spi of the T-too small turbo :)

really, I always thought the stock internal WG can only go as low 9 psi, but not any lower, I could be wrong tho. well I am actually sure I am right, since I remember I was helping my friend installing his MBC in his GSX, and what I did was hooking up one of the boost hoses (+pressure) directly to the WG and we still saw 9 psi but not any lower than that. on most Turbo with internal WG, there is no scrow adjustments, some of the external ones only do.

hey why don't you get the stock SMIC from a GS-T or X and install it now, they are not as good as FMIC or upgraded SMIC, but I am sure they are way better than running none.

I hope you got digital A/F gauge, not one of these green yellow red leds ones, they don't tell you shit, and make sure you have your EGT tapped to the 4th runner.

also run the highest actan gas you can find.

one last advice, don't step on the gas pedal for a long time, and don't go over 100 mph for long. I know that kindda takes the fun away, but you can still enjoy whooping on lotsa cars from a stop light to say 80-100 mph, and as soon as you hit that, let go of the gas and cruise for a bit with your boost gauge going below 0 psi (in vac), think of the whole thing as a NOS, use it only when you have too. the reason why I mentioned going at higher speed for a long time is no good just because you will be putting a lot of load on the bottom end the faster you go, add some knonks to that and your engine is gonna go BOOM, trust me it happend to me and it was not fun at ll. so try to stay away from boosting all the time unless you already built the bottom end

Good luck man

Adel

Well, I would install a SMIC but two things:

the smic's wont' fit on well on teh driver's side of my car, because it is an automatic and the pipes won't fit. I would need to get a FMIC, which is a little bit out of my price range.

second, I had to get my piping from California, because no one in my area in Florida can make the pipes and bends just right. so Im' stuck with the piping for the non-intercooled set-up (from turbo to intake manifold), now im just trying to find if somebody can set this damn thing!!

I wrote in my comparison the side mounts IC won't work on autos, but if you have a used T25 I would recommend getting an external wastegate. You would hate to accidentally run 8+ pounds of boost because of a busted internal one. The spring that your friend was talking about is the one that are on external wastegates. They have a spring that is adjustable and on it's lowest setting they run about 5 psi. After about 12psi the T25 start to run hot. They are good turbos and I've seen 13.5s GST's. From www.roadraceengineering.com you can get a vey good Griffin FMIC for $500 and run a reliable 8psi all day long. Just about any muffler shop can construct custom IC tubing using prefabricated mandrel bent elbows and stainless steel.

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology is the Only Substitute for Displacment"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

Whoa, so you're saying I shouldn't sustain speeds of a 100 mph or more for very long? Now, does that only apply to a stage 1 non-intercooled turbo kit or, does it also apply to a HRC stage 2, running at 9 psi? Hmmm, that really stinks if that's true.

You also said you blew a bottom end, was that with your current turbo set-up? And, what mods did you have in your car when that happened? PSI? Just curious because, now, I'm a little scared.

Later,
Fly1

http://members.dencity.com/xtdsm
>>Whoa, so you're saying I shouldn't sustain speeds of a 100 mph or more for very long?

yeah you should not, the reson why I said that is because at higher speeds you put a lot of load into the bottom end, well or that's how at least I blew my motor.

3 days b4 I blew the motor I raced, VR4 Galant, GS-T, and an AT supra, I whooped on all of them, but lost to an RX7 that was modded as hell. I was running 14 psi (92 gas with lots of octan booster) and never had any problem. 3 days later running on the highway againest my friends Camaro, I was running 7 psi, we started the race around 70 pmh till 144 mph or so, my EGT did not go above 800C, and everything seemed fine till we both puuled into a gas station and found out my engine was smoking hella bad, and that's when I opened my hood to find oil everywhere that was comming out of the valve cover breather, not only that, oil dip stick pooped off and the metal house it goes into was smoking as if it was an exhaust.


>> Now, does that only apply to a stage 1 non-intercooled turbo kit or, does it also apply to a HRC stage 2, running at 9 psi?

well I was talking more about any turbo kit, mine was not HRC or star, it was one of the first kits that available for our cars 3 years ago, it was called AC-speed.



>>>Hmmm, that really stinks if that's true. well I am not sure if it's true or not, I did not blew my motor running 14 psi down the drag, or even in short races, I blew it running only 7 psi, but for hella long and at very high speed (100-144 mph).
so I am not trying to say don't buy whatever kit is out there, I am just mentioning what are the reasons that I think caused my motor, plus I don't really think the kit itself has anything to do with blowing the motor, it's how much boost you run, and how much fuel you got.



>>You also said you blew a bottom end, was that with your current turbo set-up? And, what mods did you have in your car when that happened? PSI?

well my car as of now is NT, when I blew the motor I did not have enough money to build the bottom end, plus at the time they really did not have the parts that needed to make our bottom end stronger, so what I did I just got another used short block and swapped with mine and took the turbo off.

set up
- HKS External WG
- HKS BOV
- Ported and Polished T3 Turbo
- Sperco FMIC
- Bell Eng Fuel Pressure Regulator
- RC Injectores "310"
- 2.5 RS*R Cat back
- Random high flow Cat
- Ported and Polished Head, TB, and Intake Manifold
- Super AFC
- Mutiny wild cams
- Nos inline fuel pump



>>Just curious because, now, I'm a little scared.
well I am not trying to scare you from turbo charging your car, but if you wanna do it, do it right (build the botom end) first. and to just let you know, I am not the only one who blew his motor after turboing his car. but if you wanna go ahead and turbo it on stock bottom end, go ahead and promise yourself you will not run higher boost :) yeah right, I tried but could not keep that promise for long, the thing that pisses me off tho is when I blew the motor I was running only 7 psi !


Adel

The t25 i think is mechanically regulated to 9psi.. no boost controller in the world will allow you to run less.. boost controlers can only *raise* the amount of boost by bleeding off some of the boost that's supposed to be helping open the wastegate. run a vacuum line from the wastegate to the compressor side of the turbo.. this will give you 8-9psi.. the minimum you can achieve without changing the wastegate to a different unit.

If you have a 95 car, you won't need to play with the fuel system a whole lot.. if you have a 96+ be prepared to do a few more mods.

If you can't weld.. don't bother trying to make your own kit.. get a job delivering pizza's to get the extra $$$ to get a stage I kit and then modify from there.

ttyl

WheatKing

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91 Talon AWD - Rusted & Busted..
95 Sebring LX 2.0L 5sp Backyard Turbo'd
95 Avenger 2.0L 5sp - 100% stock!
96 Jeep Cherokee - Tow vehicle