Sup guys im in need of your wisdom once again. Ok here it goes, I recently bought a star stage 2 and finally got everything going, cept for a really ruff idle, it wont stay on, after i warm it up by running it a bit its fine. Also, if I drive it cuts fuel at 4k no matter what gear or boost/ no - boost. I think I hooked up the vc-2 like i was suppose to , if any one can walk me through how they installed theirs id appreciate it, such as telling me what wires you tapped into etc. The CEL is really an eye -sore and the obd II says its a "high map" voltage reading. Also some other litthe things are, did any of you have to shave your bumper to make the intercooler fit? I had to take off my drivers side headlight, and the inter coller is pushing my front out so that it looks like my car is in need of braces. Oh and one more thing I installed my egt probe on the down pipe- post turbo at the first bend, it reads around 6-7 hundred on the freeway, should i change it? or leave it as is? my gauge only goes up to 13 though, which is why i did that. Oh my car is a 98 gs auto by the way and im hitting 5 pounds and love it so far.

Ivan, P.s. any comments and tips are sppreciated and will be taken into consideration, thank you all , your my big car brothers. ;)

Sounds like your VC2 isnt working, and thats why you are hitting fuel cut. where did you provide to the unit from? check to make sure that connection is good, or the VC2 wont work. ill go look at my car later to see what wires i spliced into, as i dont remember right now. it may also have something to do with your rough idle. far as the EGT goes, id put it in the manifold itself, and ge ta gauge that goes up to at least 1600, just to be as accurate as possible.

Nitrous_RS1997 is right about the EGT. The exhaust gas cools as it expands through the turbo. You definately want to be reading it from your manifold.


95 Eclipse RS : 5 speed
Gude cams : test pipe : CAI : Dual air horns : Kenwood KDC 5000 : AutoCommand remote start
incomming - lower strut bars : AFX UDP

Yeah I thought so but since the gauge only goes to 13 I thought id put it post turbo. read on a page for dsm.org that some of their guuys do that. Well Ill have to see and figure out how to seal that up, maybe some muff sealant or something? any other ideas as to the vc-2?

Well about the VC-2 i hooked it up just like the paper that came in the bag said to and don't seem to be having any problems.
As for the intercooler, if you didn't put your power stearing lines behind the radiator support you need to do that. But if you did that and it is still sticking out some, the mount that came on the intercooler might be made a little off. On my car the only thing that posed a problem on the bumper was one of the chrome pipes was pressing up hard against the air dam on the driver side, so i just took the ugly black plastic things out and carfully with about half hours worth of work and 170 grit (i think it was that if not around there somewhere) sandpaper shaved it a tad at a time and rechecked for clearance, if i didn't do that then the fender and bumper had a 1/2" gap in it that was making me really upset.

So no one else had to remove their fog lights to pass the intercooler pipes? Thats odd. That was pretty much the hardest part of the install, the pipes. Yes , I did pass the lines behind the support, but thanks for mentioning that. As far as the vc-2 wirring goes. I had it hooked up to the stock map sensor harness, but that didnt work, so I hooked it up to the power source for my gauges(yes I know stupid) but that isnt working wither. Whats a good power source thats always on cepts for when the key is out? Exactly what wire did you guys tap into and where?

yes your stock fog lights will not fit with the intercooler, they need to go bye bye.
I don't have a problem with the ic itself, it fits fine.. I did have to cut some of that black plastic for the pipes to go back up into the engine bay from the intercooler.

WOW , after a week of driving I lost 3 bolts on the downpipe/turbo area. I should have paid attention to you guys and added a hefty ammount of lock tight. Also , Im still not running right, and can any one of you give me exactly which wire you tapped your vc-2 into? like I.e. blue/black, or something? Oh and one more thing, My car sounds like a lawnmower, does this mean I have to tighten the manifold tighter? or is it that it has a bad gasket?

ok ive been experimenting now. I hooked up the vc-2 directly to the battery this time and this should make it run right? wrong the CEL is still there even after disconnecting the battery, and it idles worse. The fuel cut still happens, wtf could be wrong here? I dont regret getting the turbo, its made it 500 miles 250 each way on an emergency trip just fine how it was. please guys i need help here, this is why star kits suck no help. oh well, TIA

The VC2 goes to the green/yellow wire on the MAP sensor.

if it sounds like a mower, you have an exhaust leak. happened to me the first (and only) time i did a very high speed run. we came back and i thought i had blown something, it was puttering like there was no tomorrow. i took a cloth and put it over one of my wastegate gaskets and the noise went away. fixed it, but now it's partially leaking again. and with the vc2, i couldn't get mine to work, but u're supposed to cut into the yellow wire. the green wire is the power and the black wire is the ground. once you've cut the yellow wire the MAP side connects to one terminal of the vc2 and the ECU side connects to the other terminal. i'm guessing you could put the vc2 by u're ecu if you wanted to, you'd have to know exactly which wires did wich thou, much easier to do at the map sensor instead.

or you could just get a missing link. works great, i'm still getting fuel cuts, but i'm 99.9% sure it's not the MAP this time. fpr problems and the such, but not the map.

My bad about the color. I thought the yellow wire had a green stripe. sorry...

yeah fixed the ex-leak this afternnon. Tightened those bolts up to spec. As for the vc-2 its still not working. Things is I think I lost the sheet to hook it up. Im pretty sure I did it right though. yellow black wire as map. hooked up the power to my ignition, ans the ground to a blod near the map. Can anyone scan the sheet that came with the vc-2 to help me out. Also is there another way other than a volt-meter to test out if the vc-2 is working. What readings should I be getting from the map sensor wire?

can anyone help? I might be able to make it to the meet today, but i dont know for sure. Oh btw my gauge only reads to 1300 because its in celcius, thanks to ricky for that comment. I do believe Im going to mount that in the manifold now. pls guys i want this thing up and running already, got some ass to burn.

Ok im really starting to get bummed here. Should I order the missing link or what? I hate this, can you guys give me tips as to how/what to trouble shoot? BTW any one have an extra vc-1/2 around?

>>My bad about the color. I thought the yellow wire had a green stripe. sorry...

it does have a stripe on it, i'm not sure what color it is.

and w/ the vc2, it didn't work on my car, but not because of the map causing the ECU to cut fuel. i installed the missing link and that didn't work either. i found a boost leak behind my maifold AND my static fuel pressure was about 1/2 of what it should have been AND the regulator spikes boost WAY too high at anything but idle. i just took it apart to clean it. we'll see what happenes.

when i tried the vc2 and hooked it to my battery to test the clampage w/ a volt meter it worked fine, it was clamping at 4.7v just fine. i even tried it at differend volts just to see what would happen. i'm convinced it wasn't the vc2 thou, it was doing what it was supposed to, it was other problems.

so you saying that i should pen it up even though its brand new? I should really look into this. so its suppose to clamp at 4.7 v right? any one have the wirring diagram? im still looking for mine and want it just in case. thanks. also s the missing link worth it?