I need to get a new regulator, my cartach is a pos.. I was told that using a FMU, i will need to use my stock pressure regulator, to hold the static idle. But the S-FMU has both adjustments...The guy at vortach also said that if i get the S-FMU, i will need to dyno tune it to get the proper ratios??? How hard is it to tune this s-fmu, do you really need a dyno to do it? Also, does anyone know off hand how much the new Cartech FPR billet costs?? Couldn't find it on HRC's website..Thanks for any info..sorry if this seems like a newbe question..well i am new to this :)

Well you might have had to dyno tune BUT no matter what injectors you are using more than likely someone here is using the SFMU and same injectors. So you can ask them the settings instead of figuring it out yourself. Plus you can use Corbin's page to figure it out.

i would get the s-fmu instead of the hrc new fpr.. the hrc fpr is around $200 give or take? and the s-fmu is around $250 give or take... with the s-fmu u can upgrade to bigger injecs later on and use different disk to run those injecs for boosted operations... also the s-fmu can adjust idle/static points...you dont need to use a dyno to tune the s-fmu just to tune your can if it has a built engine or if your using a super afc etc...if you got the stock injecs hrc kit... get the s-fmu put in the 3.62 disk/ring and the dark colored springs and set your idle to 47-55 and GO...also the s-fmu hold idle muc better then hrc fpr =) i got one


Michael 99gs
Mods:
Hrc Stage 2
S-FMU
315cc injectors
Crane HI-6DI2
Greddy Type S Bov
VC-2
Road Race Catch Can
Greddy Profec B & Switch
Apexi WS Catback
Super Afc
Autometer Boost, electric fuel, Egt, Tranny Temp Gauge & Cooler, Air/Fuel Light & Digital
Tokico Adjust Struts
Eibach Pro Kit Springs
Front & Rear Upper Bar
CarCraft Interior
Sound System= Bring it On

Hey thanks a lot for the info..But my major problem is the cartach is rising the boosted fuel pressure too much with the 5 psi. I'm getting about 130+ psi of fuel pressure at the gauge, at 5 psi. Should be around 80-90 psi. I adjusted the brass needle valve outward all the way, and still doesn't help any..There was fuel spurting out the return line at the tank, so fuel is coming out..maybe the line is pinched somewhere? We did run the return line right next to the stock lines, and followed the stock lines all the way into the engine bay..We did run the rubber line in some close quarters, but if it is pinched, it still passes the fuel...So does this return line have to be COMPLETELY open, or will a small pinch in the line really screw up my boosted pressures??? My static idle pressure is excellent, no real fluctuation..Just my boosted pressure...I know i am running rich, telling by the A/F guage almost pegged on the green led's, and i can feel the power drop when it reaches 4-5 psi, like its getting too much fuel...although there is not really any large amounts of black smoke either..The check valve is flowing good, and i took off the needle bleeder screw, and i can blow through that too..

If i get the S-FMU, what sprngs/dics should i use for 5 psi, and stock injectors??? Any info is greatly apprectiated!!! Sorry if this has been asked a million times..i'm sure it has, been searching for ever on here with no real luck..Does everyone else agree with pnoymahol?? yes??

I agree w/ pn0mahal.

Assuming you're leaving your idle pressure alone, it should run about 55 psi or so. if you want to be at 80-90psi at 5psi boost, you will need a (90-55)/5= 7:1 or a (80-55)/5= 5:1 disk. You can see how I did the math. If your idle is not 55, just change the 55 in the equations to your idle pressure and then do the math. Then decide between 80 or 90 psi, do the math and you're done. Try to get as close as possible and if you don't have an AFC, it might be better to err on the slightly rich side.

Matt

You're going to want to do that math w/ static pressure and not idle. The idle pressure will set itself from the static pressure once you hook a vac to it. (I know what you meant just wanted to clear it up for him)