Sup guys , me again. Ok I tried looking for this, but other things pop up and nothing to actually help me on this. I need to know how you guys got your oil pan off. Theres the little bolts on the front driver side that I can tget to because of this one piece that blocks them. Also on the back theres another piece that keeps my wrench from getting in there, that extension just pops out too. Any suggestions tips etc? Also how the @#%& do I hook up that FPR? The star instructions suck ass, It says one to the stock hose, another to the stock vacum source, but what about the third nipple? where does that go to? and do I keep the stock one or get rid of it all together?

Well I can answer the first part but don't know how to hook up the regular FMU. For the front bolt on the oil pan you need to remove the tranny bracket. It takes I THINK a 12 mm bolt and an 18mm (on the MT, dont know about auto) Then you can get to that bolt w/ just an extension. For the back one you need a swivel socket. It's a PITA to get on/off but you can do it w/ a swivel and extension.

For those hard to get to bolts on the oil pan, I used a wobble extension and a regular socket instead of a deep well. It was kind of difficult, but I got it done.
If you have the later fuel system w/ the stock regulator in the back, here is how you put it in. There is a soft line (rubber) that comes from the stock regulator and dumps back into the tank. This is the return line. The new regulator goes in between the stock reg. and the tank. So pull this stock rubber line off, don't cut it, you will need to reuse it unless you buy more line. Put the provided hose on the barb that is inside the car (the one that attaches to the plate ontop of the fuel pump). When you feed this line down beneath the car, it will need to attach to the hose barb that is in the middle of the bottom of the new fuel man. unit. Next, take the piece of line you took off of the car earlier and coonect it to the barb on the stock reg.(you actually could probably have left it attached, but I removed it and used new lines). After you reconnect it to the stock reg., you need to connect the other end to the side of the new fmu. This takes care of everything except the vacuum line that needs to be connected to the top. That's pretty straight forward. One thing I recommend is run this vacuum line directly off of the manifold, the stringer the signal is that is getting to the fmu, the safer your fuel will be supplied under boost. Well man, I hope this helps you, justin

OK , Almost done. But OH NO I think I stripped the oil sensor adapter. I put on an after market sensor using a t for that and the turbo feed line sionce both are 1/8. Thing is when I tried to put the stock one back on the adapter that came witht the star kit it just popped out, now it doesnt want to go back in. I stripped the threafs hugh? Damn cheap thing. Can I make a run to the local hardware store and get another? its 1/8 in one side wnad whats the sides for the others?
Also I can get to the rear driver side bolt, damnthing. An extensions too long , and a reg socket isnt long ewnough. So close yet so far. Sigh :(

The hole in the block is 3/8". If you have an aftermarket sensor then get a 3 way all female T. A 3/8" "close" fitting and whatever couplers you need to get the size for the feed line and pressure sensor. You have to use a socket piece w/ a swivel head to get the rear bolt unless you take out the center cross member.

Ok got the poil pan stuff done. i thikn e erything is set to go, jsutone more question, How did you guys mount the fmic? It looks to me as if its too low, or that one hit and bam its one? Maybe im just paranoid, some pics anyone?

don't worry about the ic it will stay bolted to your car... and if you havn't got your fpr coverd then.... what year is your car

mine is pretty low :) whew haha I thought you said you stripped the oil sensor, those are a bitch, mine exploded on me haha thanx to my clumsiness. Good luck. Tighten up that oil pan properly and the exhuast manifold.

Ok guys , I think Im almost done. Just some questions. How / where do I hook up the Fpr vacume tube to? And how do I hhok up my BOV to? So I just tap into the intake manifold? Also what do I do about the valve cover breather?

Oh BTW , on the little black box wirring thing, how do I do that? right next to the map sensor? and mount it in da engine bay?

any pois of anything would be appreciated. Thanks

The fpr and the bov both need a vacuum/boost signal from the intake manifold. When you are wiring up that little box, just follow the schematics that came w/ it. I tapped into the wires right at the map sensor. I think the black wire in the map harness is ground, the grren was power, and the yellow is the actual map signal. Use a multi meter to double check this, but I am pretty certain this is the wway it went. And about the breather, I just ran a hose straight down to the inner fender/splash guard and have yet to have any prolems w/ it. Well, good luck, justin

sup guys, im done wit the turbo install...but i got a couple of problems. i hooked up the fpr, vacuum line,bov and boost gauge to the little round thing with the chrysler sign. a couple of questions though, for some reason teh car wont start. i know it can be the starter but there is no current draw on the electrical system and the crank wont crank at all. the fuel pump charge is up and everything turns up except the starter. my question is how do i troubleshoot this and is ther some way i might have disconnected something under the car. btw did anybody else have trouble putting the battery back on.. i have the aluminum struts and the battery wont fit wit the turbo kit. anybody had this same problem, if so, wat size battery did u use. also, should my intercooler suppose to be crooked(passenger side is tilting down) like this. am i suppose to hook up the breather to something or just hook up a filter or catch can.

for the crooked intercooler just use some zip ties and level it. (I did) for teh breather, either run a tube to the ground from it or get a catchcan and plug it to the breather, otherwise you will get oil in your engine.
the vacuum lines from the fmu, boost gauge, and bov should all be tapped into the intake manifold. If you can tap each one directly to the manifold would be better (the less splitt offs you have in a line the better) you may acomplish this by taking off your EGR system and tapping some vacuum lines there. If you run your pvc valve to the catch can, that will also free up an extra place for a vacuum line.

Hope that helped.
Late.

Ok , I think I got everything done . Just one tiny PROBLEm . The Car Wont start!! Wtf could be the problem? The power gets to it(read 14 volts) and its properly grounded. should I just rig up a remote starter to test it out? How would I go about doing that? using it by tapping straight into the battery? help me out guys or do I just take it to the shop?

when you turn the key does it try to turn onver and you hear the fuel pump "prime" (don't know what to call it. when you turn the key it makes a noise) or does it not do anything at all?

OK the fuel pump does "prime" If you want more Info please read what ive posted in the general section . Ok I got it started, thing is when it does start I need someone to hold the gas down or else it dies. Also I noticed a bit of smoke from under the hood when I reved it to 3k Is this normal? when I let go of the gas though it dies or wants to. Oh BTW I got it started by tapping a remote started to the battery. Damn, this sucks, this beast is just sitting there. :( Is this normal since I took out the battery? Please help.

BTW how do I adjust the boost on this thing? So I have to adjust the wastegate and BOV?

I'm out of ideas for the starting prob you have, specially with the conditions you say you are having.
But as far as adjusting the boost. If you followed the instructions exactly, the westgate will be plugged to the compressor wheel. and will open when it reads 7 psi of boost there. Now once the ari goes through teh intercooler it will loose about 2 psi. so you will actually only be getting like 5 psi in the engine.
one way around this is to plug the vacuum line from the westgate directly to the intake mani so that it will open when the engine is actually getting 7psi of boost. If you wish to increase the boost more (not really safe on current set up) you will need a manual boost controler.

Late

OkI got it. for the starter, if it is the egnition switch I could use it as an excuse to wire up a starter button s2000 style?

Well Im taking tha car to a shop today for the ingnition. thing is when I do get it started it idles really rough and dies on me unless i hold down the gas. IS this normal? Also I got a CEL on . How do I go about this ? or is this normal till the ecu re-learns the system? The fuel pump works fine, I got all the signal hoses hooked up right. i think. help me out guys.I have no isp at home lately so i need this fast.

when I first installed my kit, i had to hold down the gas or it would die. it felt wierd having to rev all the time at stop signs. This went on for about 20 minutes. Then it was fine. Don't know what the problem was, but it's never happened again and it has run fine for over a year now. Make sure you aren't messing up your O2 signal somehow and making the ECU readings way off. Could flood your engine and possibly need more air to burn off the fuel therefore needing you to keep the throttle down. just a guess...
good luck

matt

OK the datalogger said its a high voltage from the map sensor. Also when it reaches 4k it bounces and my engine jerks like i hite the fuel cut off and stuff. Is this all normal? also teh CEL stays on and it wants to die on me when I first start it. I have to hold the gas down for it to stay alive. Also when I first start it in the morning I have to give it 2 tries and at times it sounds like Im grinding gears? is all of this normal?

4k sound like the boost point. Better check your FCD and see if it's working... I don't got one so better ask someone else first :P

When you hooked up your FCD did you cut the MAP sensor wire in half and then splice into it? If you did run a jumper wire so it's still like a solid wire but the FCD is still connected. The starting and dying is exactly what mine did when the MAP was unhooked.

Yes I did everything like the paper that came with it told me to do, well for the power I tapped into the stock map power. The ground is a wire to a bolt in the engine bay. so your saying to reconnect the yellow wire together? and tap into a 12vsource that does turn off at start up or that doesnt? ike the radio one ? or like the starters constant power?