Just curious if anyone is and if it is as reliable as Hahn claims under daily driving conditions.

AvengerEST - he dynoed 340fwhp at 18psi pump gas on his S20G. Check out www.armond30.com for more info.

Yeah, I usually am working on my car, but I daily drive mine when its back together and nice out. Bills setup is fully streetable.

i daily drive mine.. but i'm still working out some of the bugs

Yeah, someone that knows jack about cars should NOT get up into the higher stages... luckily I catch on quick and have plenty of spare time on my hands... so I can make it work.. The big thing with high hp is there will always be something happening, and you have to know whats going on... I can hear a slight difference or feel a difference in my car and be like "o, yeah, i know its this or this" pull over, check.. and sure enough... I am usually right, or I hop online and chat until I find out whats up... If your looking to bolt on a kit and never have to open the hood except checking fluids... and not spend any other money on it...then its not for you...

I am soon to be stageV (cept for the super20g turbo) but after rebuild and injecters i will trade in the super16g turbo. It is my daily driver.

I will be there pretty soon. The good thing about doing it in stages is that you learn a lot along the way. I have learned a hell of a lot about rebuilds in the past couple weeks because I had to.

Consider that even with stage 5, Bill (alledgedly) only ran 12psi on pump gas. With race fuels, the RS would run more, but whem it was running on 93 octane (alledgedly) only 12lbs went through it.

Think about it.

I used to whore my engine out when I first got it and didnt know much about turbo's and everything... I used to crank the profec-b all the way as high as it would go on pump gas, and run like 24psi, haha... thanks to ceramic coated piston tops I suppose, it took the abuse fine, but whether it took it or not I dont do that anymore just because I cant afford to rebuild... but Bills kits will definately take abuse, I have proven that to myself time and time again, and Armond has done so more than I have cause if anyone will break it, armond will, hehe :-)

A couple of notes:

Dino's close: we run up to about 15 PSI on 93 octane with Stage V. Those who are tuning to the edge can probably run a bit higher, but I have found 15 PSI to be quite enough for a nice spread between safety and performance. With high octane we then use the 'street' boost as thge low boost setting, while hi boost goes to about 27 PSI.

The modified engines are reliable when run daily at up to 15 PSI and weekends at 27. But not EVERY SINGLE weekend: keep in mind that such use would be basically a full-blown drag application, with all of its attendant wear and maintenance issues. But if you see the track half-a-dozen times a year, and are not idiotic about tirespin and wheelhop when on the street, the parts involved should last a reasonable amount of time. They have for us, through literally tens of thousands of miles of street strip use on our vehicles, and we also have yet to hear a customer who has exzperienced troubling, wholesale breakage. Sure, diffs shoot out their pins, stock axles snap, but fixes are available for those who need them...fact is, with but these two driveline areas improved, it's a bulletproof combo all the way into the nines with our Neon!

As the evidence mounts, what the 420A faithful have known for so long is now becoming impossible to refute: these cars are an Excellent platform for performance. This stuff flat works!

BHjr

PS: I've been buried under projects at Hahn RaceCraft for months now, but it's all good, as you'll all see soon. Have not had much time to post or even read here: it's good to see all you again. I have to go now: the Neon is ready to bark its new 2.4L combo this weekend, and our whole crew is in a marathon session to get it race-ready. Will keep you posted!

Well since your here bill, can you give us some helpful tips on tuning the dfi's. So far no one here with your dif can get them to run just right. almost everyone has eather the powertunner or the calmap software. i think most ppl have finally got there idle to work and are now moving into the mid to uper rpm and boost ranges for tuning. So we'd appericate any info you might have on doning this...

Yeah, DFI tuning sessions are a must. Expecially if you do anything to the engine other than throw on Bills kit. I really didnt need to mess with it until i started doing porting and boring, then I noticed I was swinging into 1600 on the EGT and had to have armond talk me through some changes... Basically, you should stay around 1550 at WOT is what armond suggests. My engine was more efficient, so I was going lean up top and had to richen it up with armonds help. Sometimes the DFI is silly and will change values for no apparent reason so always keep a back up copy of all the default files Bill loads on at HRC. My cranking fuel did that I believe cause it was flooding every time it cranked it, so I had to cut it in half to get it to start. Also, if you dont have the air temp kit from bill, the way the circuit is designed, it will throw an extreme negative value and always enrichen the whole fuel map, so check that out by hitting "V" and viewing your gauges through the Calmap software. Mine was enriching 3.9% so I had to go in edit that, I just got rid of it so it doesnt enrichen at all for now till I order the kit I suppose. Also, you wont be able to control the fans with the DFI unless you buy another kit from Bill, but thats no biggy unless you want to be able to set it different than what the OEM ECM does. With Bills Stage 5 setup, the only thing I would recommend is a Quaife LSD, its pretty much a must if want to preserve your tranny from exploding. Axles are also a good idea to upgrade, cause when you start working on getting more traction, you will snap em' time and time again.

On a side note, if you get back to this thread, Bill, I have a question reguarding our NVG-350 tranny. Could you make us a better output shaft bearing, cause it sucks ass being plastic and all, I seem to break atleast one every time I have to get in the case...

Also, I dont know if you have ran across this problem or not, but after my last teardown I upgraded to the Quaife LSD and threw on a ClutchMasters Stage 4 clutch, driving at 16psi on pumpgas, it started to shift kinda harder, then it felt like the clutch slipped twice, which I doubt happened cause that clutch is one bad mug, anyhows, then when parking the car and letting it idle in neutral, the car would surge foward, not enough to move the car, but enough you could feel it. Got out of the car and you could here some noise from the tranny. I pulled the tranny and figured maby I put that silly cheap output shaft bearing on backwards and it made a mess, but it was intact, on correctly, and fine... The trash magnet which I cleaned out with the Quiafe install was covered in fine ground up matal shavings. There are also shavings throughout the tranny, on the magnetic twirly oil pump thing in the input shaft, etc... I havent disassembled it yet, but from a visual inspection, everything looks fine, I see no signs of gears eaten up or anything... Got any ideas for me?

*bump* ---- get back here, Bill :-)

Wow, this thread gave me a ton of useful info guys. I am going with a Hahn Stage 3 w/ 20g and FMIC and want 15 psi daily driven on Sunoco Ultra 94 fuel. I just was curious as to how many have daily driven Stage V's on here but this turned out into a very informative thread.

You more experienced guys out there think this setup will be ok without me running into any major problems like our axles? I will not be hammering it off the line 95% of the time and im auto which I am haveing semi built with a Level 10 PTS kit w/ blue clutch option (300% more heat absorbant), Level 10 or FAL tranny cooler, and a Quaife diff.

Bill, do you plan on setting the standards higher this year by breaking that 11.5 time?

I would have thought 19-20 was just as possible as 15 daily with built internals and fuel/ignition timing set right. In the end isn't it about timing? If other 2 L engines such as the miata's and 4g63 can do that, can't we?

It's all about fuel. Lots of fuel. To push that kind of boost you need large injectors (or more injectors)and the only way to control them is with a DFI or similar device. Just like the Stage 1 guys run 8psi with no IC, and the stage 2 guys run 10psi with no internals, I'm sure you could run 19 psi on stage 3. But for how long....

I think with a Hahn stage 3 20g and FMIC I could push 20 psi on Sunocos 94 octain occasionaly on the weekend like once every other month or so and 15 psi daily.. the bottem would be built like a tank.

In order to run 20 psi you would probably need 550cc injectors along with the s-afc. It will run very rich when not boosting but it is drivable. Greg runs the 550's in his GS. If I were to run 20+ psi I think I would go with the 8 injector setup.

...I did Corbins setup that night. The AFC would be enough for 550cc daily but still run rich at low rpms(at idle). I have Gregs old 440cc in my manny with the stock inj in their original locations. I haven't used the JB cold weld but I heard it works well I have some other cold weld that can sustain decent pressure as well. Is everybody really having that many problems with their tranny. I don't slam my gears but my problems come down to torque steer while I boost no more than 15 at the end of second as it backs away from 18 when I shift from 1st. Then 18 again in 3rd+. On a bad day 18 pounds will lend over 350.