Cause I want to up the boost. Right now it's at 5psi and it's pretty fast, but I want it just a tad faster. I would up the boost but if I do any more, I won't be able to put the lock bolt on it? Is that right? How else would I up the boost closer to 7 psi on my Star II kit without getting a boost controller?

that lock bolt will blow your motor..just ask wyatt..or shawn zagorce...the dude i bought my turbo kit from...all it does is close off the wastegate...causing boost creep and a blown motor...


If you want to increase the boost...buy the stronger spring...or get an electronic or at least a mechanical boost controller...it will keep the boost where you want it.

jason
95 GS turbo

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the way to do it is like what Jason said, you don't need to spend $300 on electronic boost control. any ball and spring MBC will do, even bleeder ones too, but ball and spring is better, you can get one from Tejan or whatever for $50. and it's hella easy to hook up, one side of it goes to the WG, and the other side goes to a Vac/boost line and that's it. make sure to read the manual it comes with it tho.

Adel

would someone mind explaining to me this wastegate and lok bolt thing, i know what the wastegate does but thats it, what does the lock bolt do? (sorry,still trying to learn as much as i can) are you saying that the lock bolt that comes with the wastegate will blow the motor is you use it, so if i get that i shouldnt follow stars instructions, but remove that bolt to be safe?
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On the external wastegate, you can adjust how fast or how slow it opens up. The lock nut just keeps it in place.

A boost controller tricks the wastegate into seeing "less" boost than there is, ie it lets off some boost before the wastegate sees it.


l e o n

I didn't tighten it all the way down or anything, cause I didn't want a blown motor. But I guess I'll just have to get a boost controller if I wanna turn up the boost the right way. Thank You.

boost creep is caused by your wastegate not allowing enough exhaust gases to vent through it, and instead, those extra gases flow through the turbo, creating more boost, even though the wastegate is completely open. Boost drop off is caused by having a wastegate that opens too far, allowing too much exhaust to vent out of it, and not enough through the turbo. once the turbo drops off, the wastegate will close, and it will build boost again. It kinda repeats this cycle. My car has this problem using a MBC for some reason, and i have tried adjusting this wastegate lock bolt, but i can't get it set right yet. If you hear like your wastegate making sort of a whirring noise almost, and your boost level fluctuates, you need to adjust this bolt.

This bolt will help you controll either of these situations. IT controlls how far the wastegate valve can open under boost. I know Wyatt had his turned in too far, and had the wastegate almost completely shut boosting way higher than it should have been. The dude i bought my kit from did the same thing.

I don't reccomend playing with this bolt at all, in fact, i just ripped mine out and delt with my boost dropping off, cus now that i am at 10 PSI, it doesn't drop off as bad as it did at lower levels. Anyway, i hope this made some sense to you.

jason
95 GS Turbo

it does seem like someone would have fixed this by now dont you think? so would a manual or electronic BC fix the problem? i know you said your manual doesnt but what about an electronic?
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Manual VS Electronic

they both do the same thing, which is cheating the WG like what Jason said (btw, well said man)

the advantege of electronics are
1- you don't have to leave your seat to raise or drop the boost.
2- you can more than one boost settings by a touch of a button (you can have it set at 6psi, and once you press the over boost button it will raise your boost to where ever you have the other setting at
3- some electonics ones readjust for wheather or altitude changes (if the weather changes, you might see more or less boost if using MBC, but gain, the change in boost will be very minimal)
4- some electronic boost controls have fuzzy logic feature (like Greddy profic A and some others) all what that means is the boost control learns the boost curve your car produses and try to smoth it out so you won't get any boost spikes (the boost rises between shifts for a second or two then drops back to where you have it set at) and the boost won't hit that hard causing some engine faluiar when you are runing massive about of boost (no thanks, if I wanna boost 20 psi, then I wanna feel the 20 psi all at once :)


the only reason that I would buy an electronic BC over manual, is when having a FWD and running high boost that will cause heavy wheel spin off the line, if that's the case, then I would get one and have one boost setting set at lower PSI for the take off, and another boost setting after you hit 3rd gear down the track or on street racing (it will help you with traction at high boost levels.

so will an Electronic BC help my boost creep or boost drop, nope it won't (unless you have a bad MBC, but with a good MBC, you should not have any problems) not flowing enough air or flowing to much air throw the WG cause that to happen, the actual BC does not. but MBC might cause a little boost spikes over an electronic one.

hope that helps

Adel