I just dropped my car off at the shop. Its a freind of a freind and he is supposed to be really good. They are charging me $900 to pull the motor then take out all the pistons and rods and then reinstal it after it gets machined and built. They are also putting in my injectors (which i havent bought yet) and my S-AFC. He is also going to put in a new AC line for me that is busted on my car. I dont think its that bad for all the work thats involved. I just wish I knew how to do it. I am going to find out how much the machine work is tomorrow. I am also getting avalve job doen on it. I talked to Gary and he recomended a valve job since I blew the engine. Hopefully the machine work isnt too much. I owe a lot of money :-( . But I guess its worth it.

thats a pretty good deal for getting it pulled, assembled and installed. as for machine work, boring and cleaning is about $70, polished crank is about $35, and resurfacing head with 3 angle valve job is about $170...at least those were my prices. and don't forget new vavle seals, they'll run about 82 from satan. good luck bro.

mark

Did you rebuild your car? Its not in your mods list.

so do you need to get a 3 angle valve job? I'm thinking of rebuilding my engine myself. Just dropping the pan and taking off the head. Then unbolt the pistons, take em out, hone the cylinders, and put new pistons and rings in. I'll probably do 100k maintenence while I'm at it like timing belt and stuff also. Hehe hope I can pull it off.

So does ne1 know if I any clue of what I'm going haha, I still don't know myself :P

Good luck Dave! ^_^

Well Gary recomended I get one but from what I have heard I dont think I need one. I am going to have the machine shop check it out and see whats up with it.

Save yourself a lot of money and pull the engine with some friends if you can. You can install the injectors in 10 minutes, and the AFC shouldn't take too long either.

The only shop you should need here is the machine shop :) That alone will be about 1500-2000 dollars. I checked the best shop around here and the prices for reassembly get up there.

What exactly is involved in a valve job?



Eric Madden

yeah i just rebuilt...not back in the car yet..tonight i hope;)

anyway, if you blew your motor you may have some serious scratches on the cylinder walls, you'll want to bore if thats the case. as far as the head goes, you do want to be certain its flat, so resurfacing is a great idea, and its only 30-40 bucks. you never know what happened if it blew...obviously it was reallly warm in there if so...so i'd say do that. and with the valve job, your right, its not necessary, but you are right there and it will assure you that your valves are seating properly and its one less thing to worry about after dumping 2grand into a rebuild. i also had my valve seals replaced, it just makes sense to do that with it all apart, its a ton of work to get the cams out should one fail in the future.

i'd also change your oil after your first run, i know lots of guys here say u can wait 100-500 miles, but i wouldn't. if you blew there may be some stupid peice of metal that breaks free and you dont want anything flaoting around that may get stuck in a bearing or ring or valve seat..anything...and whats 12 bucks...change it after your first test run.

good luck and ask away:)

oh..new valve job is taking any burring off the ass end of the valve, like where the cam makes contact with the valve to open it up. but thats minor, the big deal is the seat. where the valve seats up against the head, the seat, is ground out at 3 angles that match 3 angles that are cut into the valve itself. the first two angles are really the ones that seat and the 3rd is mainly for expansion, when the valve heats up it makes more of a complete seal...otherwise known as better performance:) and in most cases the valve guides are measured to make sure they haven't worn too much and the clearances are within specs. if not the the guides must be replaced...and that about it...phew...i'm done

mark

Well the only reason I am having them to the S-AFC and the injectors is because the engine is going to be apart and they might as well do it while they are in there. I dont think hes going to charge me any extra to do it. Just te $900 for taking it apart and puting it back together.

Jeff....WHy did you say that the machine shop was going to be around $1000-$1500? THis is what dsmark said and its about what i have heard form other people.
"as for machine work, boring and cleaning is about $70, polished crank is about $35, and resurfacing head with 3 angle valve job is about $170...at least those were my prices. and don't forget new vavle seals, they'll run about 82 from satan. good luck bro."

From that I see less than $400.

I was just giving you the quote a few guys around here got for the same work. Are you reassembling the block yourself?

No. The $900 I am paying is for taking it apart and re assembling it later. Then the machine shop is going to be extra.

This is the prices for one machine shop I am considering...heres the link..

http://www.floridaperformance.com/engines.htm

If you look at my list of mods.. u'll see i have a fair amount of engine work done. I was charged 1700 just for the engine work
from the machine shop (included the entire head port & polish, and 3-angle valve job. The expensive part was the head gasket
though). I think for a straight up rebuild.. they run around 500-1000 depending on who you know.



97' Eclipse RS (kinda)

Present mods:
HRC stage III turbo kit (12 psi street, 25 psi track) / HKS 2 1/2" cat back exhaust w/burnt cat / 16" wheels w/Yokohomo tires (215/40) / 420A engine w/ tooled crank, billet crower rods, and 8.5:1 JE pistons / Head ported and polished, 3 angled valve job
Power-stop brakes w/axis pads / Ebachi Pro lowering kit (1.8") / MSD DIS-2 ignition system w/turbo retard

Near Future:
Stand-alone fuel system / 550cc injectors, and fuel rail / TEC III fuel/ecu system / 17” Hart racing wheels / KYB AGX struts, w/ upgraded anti sway bars / Rear brake conversion (front to rear, Brembo in front)

Jay-
wakbrd99@aol.com

how come u blew ur engine? ur only boosting 8psi? i thot it can handle 10-12psi?

96RS ~ full 99GS Special Edit. body conversion, aem cai, greddy header, afx pulley, B&M SS, magecores & NGKs, A/F and Volt guages, Sparco Torino Seat, illuminas, prokits, ingalls camber, gunmetal GS rims, ST Sways, STBs, lower rear tie bar, Sony Xplode head, Xplode 10 disk, Boston Components, 2 Kenwood amps, 12" MTX sub, a shit load more.


97GSX ~ 18psi~ Ported/Clipped 15 degrees Frank 2 w/46trim, Ported Exh. housing, Tial 40mm External Wastegate with discharge tube, Ported O2 housing, 3" downpipe, 3" Straight Pipe, Apex N1, fake cat, K&N FIPK, Greddy IC Piping, Type S bov, S-AFC, Profec B, Greddy TT, Slimline Fan, RRE Catch Can, Greddy Big FMIC, ND 660s, Walboro 190lph, ACT 2600 w/street disk, clutch SS line, lighten flywheel, removed cruise control line, Greddy EGT, Coolant, Boost Gauges, motor mount inserts, Magnecor & plugs, greddy oil cap, greddy radiator cap, and free mods. To all the haters _|_ tia

1500-2000 in machine shop costs is WAAAAAAAAAAAY too much...if they tell you its anywhere near that much, take an extra week of downtime and ship the block up here. my dad will bore it over and all that other good stuff and reassemble it for 300 bucks. dont pay more than 400, cause its a cakewalk for a machine shop to do this.

>how come u blew ur engine? ur only boosting 8psi? i thot it
>can handle 10-12psi?

Well I have 92,000 miles onm my engine and I have gone 19,000 of it turboed. Thats a lot of stress. An engine will eventually blow up even if it isnt turboed after lots of stress on it. Its just faster to break with the turbo.

is the starion front mount gonna be up to the task of handling 15psi??? If so thats wonderful cuz that is in my future, if not, its still in my future, hehe.

hhmmm 900 plus machine work,don't sound bad at all.I paid 2500 for labor w/ machine work and more for parts.unless you like getting down and dirty w/ your car,900+ doesn't seem like a bad deal at all.

my 3 angle valve job was 125 bucks...polished crank was 32...and the head gasket is 50 bucks...make sure u guys aren't getting ripped off. 1700 for machine work??..that better come with a free oil change and a lap dance.

which just made me think, hot girls should work at satan, it would make paying them a lot easier.

dun HRC say u can run 8psi all day long? they sed their RS does hundreds of passes over 2 years or something and no problems... are they the only peeps that dun blow their motors?

96RS ~ full 99GS Special Edit. body conversion, aem cai, greddy header, afx pulley, B&M SS, magecores & NGKs, A/F and Volt guages, Sparco Torino Seat, illuminas, prokits, ingalls camber, gunmetal GS rims, ST Sways, STBs, lower rear tie bar, Sony Xplode head, Xplode 10 disk, Boston Components, 2 Kenwood amps, 12" MTX sub, a shit load more.


(Pix of friend's car)
97GSX ~ 18psi~ Ported/Clipped 15 degrees Frank 2 w/46trim, Ported Exh. housing, Tial 40mm External Wastegate with discharge tube, Ported O2 housing, 3" downpipe, 3" Straight Pipe, Apex N1, fake cat, K&N FIPK, Greddy IC Piping, Type S bov, S-AFC, Profec B, Greddy TT, Slimline Fan, RRE Catch Can, Greddy Big FMIC, ND 660s, Walboro 190lph, ACT 2600 w/street disk, clutch SS line, lighten flywheel, removed cruise control line, Greddy EGT, Coolant, Boost Gauges, motor mount inserts, Magnecor & plugs, greddy oil cap, greddy radiator cap, and free mods. To all the haters _|_ tia

hit an miss hehe some engine are just older than others hehe. Wonder how long mine is gonna keep on running. Its on its last leg.

>dun HRC say u can run 8psi all day long? they sed their RS
>does hundreds of passes over 2 years or something and no
>problems...

That claim has always bothered me. I think they worded it a little too enthusiastically. If they claimed "no problems" on "stock internals and stock transmission" I'd believe them. That's possible. But on their test cars, I'm sorry, they have to be blowing pistons all day long.

IMO, you can run the most beautifully tuned car in the world, but on cast, non-turbo design pistons... you're gonna blow at 8psi eventually.

Mine was kept within HRC specs, never ran over 6psi, and I blew at ~20k miles turboed.

I was wondering what exactly need to be balanced when the engine gets rebuit?