I am curious as to how many people would be willing to buy a block that is already built so you can just swap it out and become stage 3. I would be interested if the price was right. It might be a far fetched idea but it sure would be a great thing for us people who do not know how to build engines.

depends on price, otherwise i'll learn

You guys werer crack smoking than when you passed up Rays block. You can still probably buy that thing Dave....$2500 he wanted for it.

I saw his block and it had scratches in the cylinder walls. I guess I am going to have to learn how to build engines. I just dont know where to find information on doing it.

>You guys werer crack smoking than
>when you passed up Rays block.
>You can still probably buy that
>thing Dave....$2500 he wanted for it.

I didn't pass. I made an offer and he never got back to me. I also told him if he wanted to wait a while (a month or so) I could prob. buy the whole car. Again never hear from him. But I do remember seeing someone say that he didn't have a computer anymore.
But if it has wear on the cylinder walls Im glad I didn't get it.

Dave, it isn’t harder than anything else you have done to your car isn’t. Get the Howell rebuild kit, pull your block (alot easier than it looks) give the rebuild kit and block to machinist and put it back in and when you get it back. It's not hard it's just time consuming. All you need to do is buy or rent a cherry picker. I rented on for $20 a day. Took one day to pull it and one day to put it back in.

Rebuild cost me 1100.00
Machine work cost 525.00 It would have been 100.00 cheaper if I hadn't have them take off weight from the crank.

If you do get the Howell kit DONT use the Total Seal rings. Get some JE's or something. They are a real hit or miss.

>
>If you do get the Howell kit DONT use the Total Seal rings.
>Get some JE's or something. They are a real hit or miss.

I keep seeing people say to get the JE rings instead of the Total Seal. Whats so bad about the Total Seal?? Why is JE so much better, arent they made of the same material??

>
>Dave, it isn’t harder than anything else you have done to
>your car isn’t. Get the Howell rebuild kit, pull your block
>(alot easier than it looks) give the rebuild kit and block
>to machinist and put it back in and when you get it back.
>It's not hard it's just time consuming. All you need to do
>is buy or rent a cherry picker. I rented on for $20 a day.
>Took one day to pull it and one day to put it back in.


I was going to rent a cherry picker and pull the engine. Take all the internals out myself. Take it to the machinest to get it .020 overbored but I was gonna put everything in it myself. What do you rebuilt guys recommend with the bearing???? .010 undersize or whatever it comes with??

well they say total seal is bad cuz it doesn't let any blowby through and stuff. That's what I hear, gotta have some blow by I guess.

I copied and pasted this from armond's website, for more good info check his site out, www.armond30.com.

<<<<Every internal combustion engine creates cylinder pressure. This pressure is translated into torque usually, but it isn't usu. completely "trapped". since oil must lubricate the cylinder walls, oil is pushed up by the oil rings. with the total seal top rings, there is virtually no "blow by" under average cylinder pressure. since there is virtually no blow by, the oil stays above the cylinder, causing pre and post ignition (detonation) and burning constantly. This is why most "street cars" equipped with total seal rings burn oil. under normal driving conditions, there isn't enough cylinder pressrue to push the oil out, so it is burned. Race cars benefit from total seal rings becasue they do not have "partial throttle" issues. >>>