The bottom allen key bolt that holds the HRC downpipe keeps backing up; does anyone have a fix for this yet? I'm thinking about using some kind of high heat material, such as a JB Weld or thread lock--has anyone tried this? It's pretty anoying because I can't get an allen key in there to tighten it, so I have to unbolt the top two bolts and just screw in the bottom. Even then, I still can't get the bottom really tight. I even cut an allen key, but it's still really hard to get it in there...grrrrr!

You talking about the 5 bolts you can see when u pop the hood next to turbine? If so the top 3 always came loose on mine until I got an airgun to torque them down.
-Dave

From what ive heard they dont have lock washers, definitely invest 50 cents in some flat and lock washers, you should put the flat washer on first then the lock washer (either spring or internal starlock washers) and then the nut. The flat washer is there to prevent the lock washer from diggin into the flange, it should dig into the flat washer and the nut or screw head

haha yeah watta bitch even the star bolts pop out also. I found a way to fix it though coat those bolts with locktite worked me. Still pops out but not at often. Haha when you first drive it'll smell cuz that stuff is burning up but it goes away. WHen the locktite gets crusty from the heat is what holds it in, that's my thought. Hehe.

A while back, I got pissed at my downpipe bolts always backing out. I coated the threads with locktite. I was worried that it wouldn't hold. I didn't notice that I had used the "stud and bearing" formula. It permanently bonded one of those bolts into the turbine housing. That locktite held so well, I ended up shearing the head off of the bolt. It takes alot to shear the head off of a grade 10.9 M10 bolt. I now use star lock washers with good success. They dig into the bolt and housing. I haven't had one come loose yet.


Corbin

'95 ESI-T
HRC+FMIC+ETC...

Great, I'll try a little "regular" thread lock and a star washer. Thanks guys!

One other bit of advice: always use the bracket that secures the downpipe to the front of the engine. If this bracket is not utilized, the 'rocking' motion of the engine/trans on its mounts will work the downpipe loose at the turbo on a regular basis.