Does anyone know where I can find one? or how thick I should get one made to lower my compresion enough to boost 12-15psi? If no one knows where I can get one, I will research machine shops around here to see if I can have one cnc'ed, if so are there any of you guy's interested in getting one as a "pre stroker" fix? Of coarse this is not the best way to lower compresion, but $ for $ the cheapest.
Let me know
SEE YA!!!!!!!!MWC




http://smkn95eclipsemwc.homestead.com/mainpage.html

Check with Joe, I know that's what he's been doing for a while now.

I thought he was running a copper gasket, in which I was told I would have to "o" ring my block and head for that to work right. If that is the case then I would just to the bottom end upgrades. Jast time I e-mailed Joe it took like a couple of months to get a reply. :) I aint mad at you Joe!
I would like to know at least how thick I need so I can see if I can get one made. Thanks for the reply, keep um comin!
SEE YA!!!!!!!MWC


http://smkn95eclipsemwc.homestead.com/mainpage.html

you could stack together a few head gaskets to make it thicker...

i dunno..just a thought


l e o n

Sorry about that MWC, I do really suck at keeping up with my e-mails. My head gasket is copper but you only have to o-ring your block if your running really high compression or boost. With us running 13psi with 8:1 compression it isn't going to hurt. The thickness is all dependant on high much you want to lower your compression. My head was shaved .040 so I got a gasket which was .125 (the thickest one I could get). I haven't sat down and really figured it out, but I figure my compression is about 8:1 where as factory is 8.5:1. Where you go to get it made should be able to tell you what thickness you need to drop to what you want. I felt that 8:1 was a safe compression since that is what the 4G63 comes with. If someone wants to correct me on these numbers they can. I got my gasket the same place Murix got his, he knows the number better than me. I'm also pretty sure he didn't o-ring his block and he's running 17psi. Hope this helps.
Joe
97 GS w/ Hahn stage 2
Keep cruisin' & keep the shiny side up.
http://joeseclipse.homestead.com

Whose factory compression are you speaking of when you say "where as factory is 8.5:1"? Stock compression on our 420A is 9.6:1. You also say "I felt that 8:1 was a safe compression since that is what the 4G63 comes with". The 2G 4G63 comes with 8.5:1 compression. The 1G 4G63 had 7.8:1 compression. Correct me if I misunderstood what you were saying .


Corbin
'00 Grand Am (rental)
'95 ESI-T (still crunched)
HRC + FMIC
http://members.nbci.com/cbehnken/

Your absolutely right Corbin. I went back and reviewed the numbers and I was WAY off. I guess that's what happens when you get old, you start to forget things. Now what was I doing.......hmmmmm:)
Joe
97 GS w/ Hahn stage 2
Keep cruisin' & keep the shiny side up.
http://joeseclipse.homestead.com

I found a link that you may be interested in MWC. It tells you the compression ratio when you enter some values in. Here it is...http://www.ben.esu6.k12.ne.us/sblock/infrm.html. It's for V8's but you can use it for anything. I'm not exactly sure of the cyl. head volume of our cars, but I tested and came up with 46 as a pretty good number. You should able to find out what thickness you want to go with. Hope this helps. Stock head gasket thickness is .040 I do believe, bore is 3.445in & stroke is 3.267in.
Joe
97 GS w/ Hahn stage 2
Keep cruisin' & keep the shiny side up.
http://joeseclipse.homestead.com

With the help of that site I figured I need 0.80 thickness to bring me to 8:5.1 comp give or take. I found a shop here that specializes in performance Neon parts, and they have Shims that are 0.20 thick that they said I can lay on top of the block with some sealent and lay a factory MLS gasket on top without having to "o" ring. What do you guy's think?
Thanks for the help, My car should be WHOOOOOSHIN tomarrow.
SEE YA!!!!!!!!!MWC



http://smkn95eclipsemwc.homestead.com/mainpage.html

Neonland (the guy with the 2.4L Neon) helped me with this question but it's .025" which is about .5 a compression point

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology is the Only Substitute for Displacment"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

In terms a copper headgaskets you don't need and o-ring but is defintely a plus. Now in terms of needing an o-ring for a high CR certainly isn't the case. The o-ring is to maintain a cylinder head seal for compression and if anything is needed more so for turbos in which the turbo compresses the air instead of by NA, piston and ring compression. The turbo is much harder on the engine instead of NA compression. 4G-63T owners O-ring their block all over the US to maintain compression. It should be standard practice for us as well but not mandatory. You should also get ARP studs while your cylinder head is apart just besure to read the FAQ in Mods on www.2GNT.com. Eric R. did a good job. My spare head is already preped. Check into it
O-ring
Copper gasket
ARP Head Studs

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology is the Only Substitute for Displacment"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

I am going in the morning to buy the "shim" this shop sells. The shops name is Captain Nemo's Neon performance in Fl. Chris V has his car worked on there. Anyways it turnes out that the shim is 0.40 thck so I just need one to bring me to 8:5 It is costing $65 and $200 for the install although I will prob do myself along with ARP studs. I do plan on the stroker Skrilla so I am not going to all the trouble of "o" ringing my block until I do the bottom end. Too much involved! Hopfully I can boost fairly well for a while or until the stroker kit comes through.
SEE YA!!!!!!!!!MWC

http://smkn95eclipsemwc.homestead.com/mainpage.html

I frequently confer with Nemo's Crank Specialist. I'm very familiar with them. Their Crank specialist is Frank in S. Florida and talk to him regulary in regard to the surface treatment of the stock 420a Crankshaft. Brice at Alamo was giving me some sh!t about how the crank is treated because he might want to charge more for the offset welding(bastard) or even worse, a complete custom billet crank. YEAH RIGHT, for $3000+ just for the crank, do I get a freakin' B/J after he bends me over? It's believable but on a lil' 4 cylinder Chrysler engine, NO WAY, the crank can't be that tough to modify. Anyway Frank has educated me so far (thank god)and now I'm tackling custom(and affordable) Pauter rods with ARP studs at the bottom connecting the crank. Again these are 1000HP+ rods and are beautiful in build quality, I've seen them before IRL. So in case anyone's wondering I'm working on the deal. I want like 2.3L of displacement if possible, it's totally dependant on the combustion chamber and if they can get 3/10th more swing in the block as well.

Skrilla
'97 Base Talon NA
"Technology is the Only Substitute for Displacment"
"Peace and Turbo Grease"

where in florida is this shop? Do any of you turbo guys live near tampa bay? I live in st.pete and will be taking a shot and doing my turbo install myself with another friend but could use some experienced help if available (just asking) :)

LAST EDITED ON 09-Feb-01 AT 07:53 AM (PST)

I live in Pembroke Pines (Hollywood) Fl and Nemo's is down the street from me. As far as help with the turbo install, I am still trying to finish "greeneclipse's" and start on JZA's. All of this as well as starting my new Job this Monday. So as you can see my plate is full. :}
I can say though when you are ready to do this let me know and I will see what things look like for my schedule. Good luck!
SEE YA!!!!!!!!!MWC

http://smkn95eclipsemwc.homestead.com/mainpage.html