Ok Guys i need some opinions....
I was thinking about doing my internals first before adding the turbo. I want to be able to boost when i add the turbo without worring about blowing a rod or anything. I know howell has the rebuild kit. But I was wondering what would be the max. stage you could go up to with the eagle rods. i heard someone saying they were only good for upto 350hp. now is that at the wheels or at the crank. Would I be better off getting crowler rods. And another question is what ratio of piston would be the best to get. I remember a while back people were arguing about lower 8:6.1 to 9 and 10 compressions. I need to know which ones are the better ones to go with.
Also has anyone heard about the crane cams for out car. should i just send the cores I have out to get regrinded for turbo application. I'm looking at doing some serious work to my car in the next few months. I want everything to be done before summertime. At least stage 3. any info you guys can give me i appreciate.
TIA

ps sorry if this was too long or repeated question but i need to get the info..

I would say go Howell Rebuild 10.6:1 compression.
Then boost it.



current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

i know everyone has commented on your wheels already but.....dude does your car have a hover mode like in Back to the Future 2:7

420a the 10:6.1 would be the best set up for the most power or what. also what about the rods
tia

The 10.6 is higher than our stock compression so spoolup will be faster. Gary Howell was talking about the 12.5:1 compression even being safe enough for boost use on pump gas around 5 lbs intercooled :o Then once you go to the track dump in 100+ octane and kill everything at the track! }>

As far as rods go, if you are planning on pushing 350 HP or more then get Crower Rods. But even though people say 350 is the limit for Eagle rods I have heard some damn good things about them, and how they can hold much more than they say but I wouldn't want to be the test mule.



current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

my question would be why is everyone always suggesting 8:6.1 for internals and not the higher compression. i remember stan was high compression what was his ratio?
TIA

Notwithstanding, Gary Howell's recent dialogue regarding boosting capabilities with high compression, a read of Maximum Boost or any other article relating to boosting, will recommend lower compression for on-the-street boosting.

The main idea to get across here is that a lower compression engine will give you a safer platform with which to boost your engine on, lessening the risks of detonation and other internal damage. If you could be assured of always having high octane race fuel at your disposal, there wouldn't even be this issue. You could heighten your CR to your heart's content. But here in the US, we are stricken with the occasional bad tank of gas, even with 93 octane. Boosting ~15 psi of boost on a higher compression engine with poor street gas might be a dangerous game that I know my pocketbook wouldn't want to pay.