i got my HRC Stage 2 today :-). will be putting on in the next few weeks. anything you guys sugest for me to do prior? What is the socket called for the oil sender?

wish me luck

never done that kinda install b4, but make sure you have EVERYTHING, and make sure you check a few times. read the directions beforehand, like 10 times, and then make sure you got everything again.



tia

...I would go buy a couple cases of beer also. Maybe a punching bag just incase too.

>>> What is the socket called for the oil sender? <<<

1 1/16" deep well

There is a special socket you have to buy available at NAPA (or equivilant). Just tell the guy there what yer car is and he will be able to tell you what socket you need. It's like 13 bucks ;(. Also, be carefull when you pull that thing out. The end of the sending unit is plastic and I busted mine when I pulled it out and those things arent cheap.

A few more pieces of advice... When you mount the fuel pump underneath the car, rivot it instead of bolting, or use loctite at the least. You definately dont want that thing coming lose and sparking against the pavement (BOOM).

Also, in the instructions it says that you need to relocate the cruise control box to fit the FPR. That's bullshit. You can use a piece of sheetmetal to attach to the firewall underneath the cruise box (to create a flat surface to bolt into), then screw the FPR into that piece. It is positioned underneath and slightly to the right of the cruise box.

Buy some silicone to put on the corners of your oil pan gasket when you put it back on. This will help prevent oil leaks that could happen from removing the oil pan.

Other that that, I can't think of anything that the instructions don't cover. Just take yer time and do it right and have fun.

Matt
HRC Stage 2

i actually have an autometer oil pressure unit i'm installing so the stock unit shouldn't be to big of a deal

you can get dem sockets at kragen also (or checkers, etc...)

hehe get ready to experience the greatest ordeal you will ever experience working on your car mwahahah oop sorry got carried away. A punching bag helps, make sure you got band aids, and try not to misplaced tools cuz it eats up time looking for em hehe speaking from experience.

Heh well if you've overhauled your car I would guess that would be harder but I'm assuming this is your biggest power mod. Hehe get ready to run into problems after you install :) Do fuel pump rewire mod also.

You could start installing the fuel system.

Congrats and Happy boosting. . .

A few peeps to help with the install sounds like a great tool to have. Breaker bar and Torque wrench are important. Some sort of rust penetrating spray for the downpipe/cat bolts. An extra car or someway to get to the Autoparts store.



current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

oh oh don't forget an impact gun if ya got one with the compressor woohoo best tool I've ever bought! ^_^

what is the fuel pump rewire mod?

It's on the main page but you basically run a LARGE gauge power wire (what you would use for an amp) from the battery to a relay and then to the fuel pump. Use the stock fuel pump wiring to activate the relay and the pump will run off power direct from the battery. The pump will have 2 - 3 more volts going to it this way due to all the wiring the stock one has. Some people have noticed the pump giving off a few more psi after the mod. Plus if you want to run 2 pumps then you will NEED this to be done because the stock wiring has enough trouble running 1 pump, let alone 2.

current status unknown

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Drop in K&N Filter and open airbox
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

You actually don't need to do this. The 2nd fuel pump is not powered by the stock wiring. It just uses it to controll it via the relay. The instructions say to power the 2nd fuel pump using thick gauge wire straight to the battery. In my case, I just tapped into my distribution block for my amps that has a 4 gauge wire running to it and that worked fine. Rewiring the stock fuel pump may bring a couple more psi to the table, but it is not necessary when you are running the inline pump also.

Matt
HRC Stage 2

erm if you hooked it up directly to the battery wouldn't it ALWAYS be on O_o

I just hooked mine up to the relay I did when I did the fuel pump rewire mod.