Alright guys, my engines back together and running, gotta work out some minor kinks and get a belt on for the power steering, but its all good. All i really have to do now before i get it dyno'd is fix my intercooler piping and a section of exhaust.

For some reason one piece of my intercooler piping is 2''(intake side of turbo down toward the intercooler, bout 3 ft long) and the rest is 3''. I am gonna have that remade. Also there where it meets up to the intake side of the turbo, it has a 90 degree rubber elbow on it and another down under the driver side(under ecu and wiring) where 2 pieces connect.. I hate that shit cause i know its gotta flex and cause some boost surge...plus i bust them all the time... So I am gonna have 3'' mandrel bent 90 degree corners welded on so i can just use a regular straight silicone connector. Then it will all get powdercoated and get put back on.

Ok, what i wanted to know is where is the best place to get silicone connectors? Downsize pieces, 3'' pieces, pieces with that hump to help with misalligned pipes, etc... I know RRE sells them, any others, cause what all i need will cost a fortune from RRE.

Also good hose clamps cause the ones from home depot arent cutting it, they always break, bend, etc... I am tired of those cheap pos.

tia

www.thermalflex.com yeah, get rid of those rubber elbows man. I don't think they ca withstand mroe than 15 psi for long (I have seen SEVERAL bust). I also got a new 2.25 inch i/c pipe made. best just to get the elbow made onto the piping. that cuts down on connectors you will need. I got my pipe that goes from the i/c long pipe to the t/b pipe modified so it has a 90 degree bend in it as well. you might also want to invest in stiffer motor mounts so you don't have so much engine rock. cuts down on maintenance in fixing boost leaks. I tried to get some 2.25" connectors from hrc today, but they shot me directly to an answering machine and didn't return my call :(. I guess I will try again tomorrow.......or call rre


bring it on............

good deal, thanks for the post! i just measured everything so i know what to order and everything is 2 1/2 not 3'' piping like i though. I just got the front bumper back on, so i dont wanna take it back off right now, does anyone know what size the inlet and out on the apexi front mount is?

on the motor mounts, with stiffer motor mounts will i break an axle easier?

nevermind on the apexi size, i talked to Armond on AIM and he straightened me out. hopefully i'm be postin some new pics of the engine bay soon as i get the ic piping done. thanks everyone.

What mounts do you have now?

I have the NRG suspension ones for $25 and they are nice, no wheel hop at all. A little in the rain if I spin the tires on purpose.

I would say get those if you have none and want there to still be some movement since you do have to worry about axles. Extreme420a.com front, rear and side motor mounts if you got a buddy that works at an axle shop because pushing 20+ psi and you are asking for broken axles.

Missing Car. . .
Contemplating Turbo. . . . .

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

NRG? Where can these be bought? I am looking for motor mounts myself. $25 sounds good.

I suspect he means Energy Suspension. It is usually best to type out proper names as not to confuse people. Actually, I wish people could type out full sentences instead of saving on maybe the 4-5 letter per paragraph and headaches that ensue.

The Energy Suspension mounts are actually only inserts so the added vibration is minimal, but they do still help. These are what I have. The next step up would be Prothane which are full replacement urethane. The final step would be going with a solid mount such as the one Howell offers. This will bolt the engine directly to the frame and allow all hell to break loose in vibration. Feels like an old V8 to me at idle though.

Axles might or might not break, depends on how hard on it you are. :)

For the clamps, you can get the same high torque clamps that RRE sells thru napa for 1/2 the price. make sure u get the high-torque ones tho, not the standards...or go for T-Bolts, but theyre $$$

update: the best priced/quality silicone connectors i have found is the link that armond posted above... i emailed about 10 places for pricing on what i needed and they are the best. hump hose is 17 bucks versus 28 bucks for the ones rre sells... the reducers are 18 bucks versus 24 or whatever rre is... not to slam rre but they seem pricy, i used to order though them but lately i have been finding lower prices elsewhere, and places that dont charge me 15 bucks shipping on a 20 dollar spark plug order afther it was said and done, lol.

haha I know a good place to find silicone connectors. the junk yard. Hehe that's where I got mine, look on volvos, saabs, and various other turbo cars.

If you must buy them RRE has em COSTLY!

i dont really know anything about connectors, but i saw somewhere that truck connectors can hold a lot of boost/psi.

just a thought

tia