Hey guys, I'm going to snag a used turbo kit soon, it has everything except an FMU. It'll take me a couple weeks to pick up an FMU, I'm wondering if it'll be fine to install the turbo kit without the FMU, and disconnect the wastegate actuator so it doesn't make any boost, and drive it for a little bit like that.

Also:

-should I keep my stock injectors? Why or why not
-are the 1995 oil pans the same as 1997?
-this kit seems to have rubber oil lines, is that safe?

The kit utilizes a s16g, I plan to run no more than 8 psi.



Thanks.

Originally posted by Rtistyk
I'm wondering if it'll be fine to install the turbo kit without the FMU, and disconnect the wastegate actuator so it doesn't make any boost, and drive it for a little bit like that. Also: -should I keep my stock injectors? Why or why not -are the 1995 oil pans the same as 1997? -this kit seems to have rubber oil lines, is that safe? The kit utilizes a s16g, I plan to run no more than 8 psi. Thanks.

I wouldn't start the build until you have all the parts necessary, including the FMU.

You're going to need some injectors too. The stockers will not be able to supply the required fuel in boost. Pickup some 450cc or 650s (65lb/hr) injectors.

Rubber lines are OK, as long as they are the proper temperature rated material.

Others can chime in more as they see fit, that's about all I can help you with.

I have 450cc injectors from a 4g63, so I will be running these alongside a resistor pack.


EDIT: After doing some more research, I have been thinking that since I'm going with 450cc injectors, I'll need a way to lower my base fuel pressure.

Instead of using some safc or neo (I hate electronics), I figured I could remove the stock fpr, run fuel line up to my firewall and connect it to an SFMU, and run fuel line from the sfmu to an AFPR with the vac source disconnected, and finally to the fuel rail.

Does this sound like an efficient setup? Would a regular FMU be optimal since it runs richer? I'd like some criticism on this fuel setup. I'm trying to keep my AFR's consistent and safe. My car has the 96+ fuel system by the way. If anyone has any recommendations on what to run, that would be awesome!

Nice you found the info on running 450s on a 2gnt.

If you're not going to run full standalone like one of the Megasquirt variants, or even a Hahn Portfueler, then the SFMU is your next best bet.

There's a plethora of info on this site for running SFMU setups. There are a couple write ups in the wiki section of this site as well. Just have to search.

When using the search function, try keywords like 'SFMU setup' etc, and where it says 'Search which fields?' change it to subject only. This will help you track down threads more specific to your keyword search.

Yep, sure am. I found some good writeups on this site.

I figure a FMU with a AFPR would be a bad idea, I can just run an SFMU in place of everything, and much simpler install. However, I can't find any used, and new one's are $350+.

Some people run something called a BEGi, but I'm not sure how well those work. I found a really cheap SFMU made by 'Spa Turbo', and a couple reviews SEEM to make it out to be a good unit, but there's too much misinformation on the internet.

I've been reading til my eyes bleed lol, can never have too much knowledge. Anyways, an adjustable FMU looks to be my best shot, but then it'll mean I'll need a wideband, which is another $160+. I used to run a wideband but I traded it for narrowband + cash on top since I was planning on selling my DSM. Oh well, plans change I guess, heh.

http://lightningmotorsports.com/begicartech/fuel_pressure_regluators/fmu2025/i-269789.aspx

The Cartech or BEGI unit is the one that was sold with the Hahn kit. The Vortech SFMU was often regarded as a better unit but either will work. As far as a wideband, you can pick up one of them fairly cheap used on tuners, I may even have one for sale if I can find all the harnesses for it. It can be put together for a reasonable price, esp since a lot of people are just jumping to a 1:1 rising rate regulator and MS...there is TONS of info on this site, just search around for it!

That BEGI is MUCH closer to my price range, after some research people have claimed it gives an unstable idle pressure. But if it came with the hahn kit then I'd think it would be decent, better than a vortech 12:1 at least.

If you can find the parts to your wideband kit, pm me price and info.