Hey guys just wanted to give an update on the progress of the car. I believe since my most recent post ive installed the megasquirt, installed new cams, broke my throttle body and broke my clutch.



I installed the cams and megasquirt all at the same time. I previously had the crane turbo grinds installed, 16s or something like that and I have upgraded to the crower stage 3 I believe. Its a 292 duration and .458" lift which is pretty nasty.

This is the old crane cams



Theses are the new crower cams




I finally got the car running good and then went to have it tuned and come to find out I had a bad coil. Swapped the 95 style to the newer 97+ style and that fixed the problem. After I fixed that proble I now had a running hot issue. The car would never overheat but just run really hot. I previously had a 8" puller fan mounted to the rear of the rad. Space was really limited with the manifold and radiator location. I purchased a flex-a-lite direct bolt on fan for my application and then modified the supports. I really only had one option to make it fit so I cut the center core support and moved the radiator forward where the factory condensor sits. Now with that out of the way I have no way of latching the hood. I picked up a set of aerocatch hood pins to solve the problem. A little cutting and grinding and they were installed. They look awesome!




Now on with the transmission dilemma. Ever since I converted the car from an autimatic to a 5 speed the car never really shifted perfect with this clutch. I simply figured it was just the break in period. I bought it brand new and only put about 2000 miles on it, 1500 were break in with no turbo and the other 500 were light pulls since its not tuned yet. Just the other day it gave me a real hassel putting it in gear, I adjusted the clutch and no resolution. I started it up after I attempted to adjust it and it made this loud continuous screeching noise, kind of like a belt. I checked over everything and noticed it was the clutch fork moving back and fourth rapidly. I determined it was now time to pull the trans and see the damage. When I removed the trans I saw this.




It looks like it didn't scar the housing too bad but the pressure plate is shot. I'm sending it back for a re-build and SouthBend is completely standing behind their product and all I have to cover is labor and shipping. I have a new trans sitting in the garage waiting for install.






Looks like I'm swapping back to an auto. I'm trying to have it together for Import Revolution which is about a month away.

Let me know what you guys think!

Looks good. How does it sound/perform with the crower 3's? I have the crower 2's and will probably ditch them this winter for some more aggressive ones. Are you running MS as full stand alone?

They sound amazing. Really loopy at idle but I have the idle set rather high so its a little smoother (1200). Really can't say how they perform because I don't have any baseline numbers to comepare it to but from what I understand I can gain a significant amount from these cams. They are not for our cars though. They are out of a neon and you have to switch the intake and exhaust cams and have them redrilled by a machine shop. After you get them back they will need to be degreed in with your adjustable cam gears. Its a pretty lengthy process to install them properly.

What did you do to break your throttle body?

I have no idea how or why it broke. I wasn't boosting it high or driving it hard. It was virtually brand new and probably only had 500 miles on it. I just casually took off from a light in first gear and then shifted into second and the pedal went to the floor and didn't come back up. I pulled off to the side of the road and popped the hood and saw the linkage laying on the fuel injectors. I contacted moderern performance and they set me the butterfly arm and spring to fix the broken bolt. I haven't had any problems from this set up so far. Maybe it was just some cheap material they used.

Never seen that before with a MP TB. Pretty strange. Your build is coming around nicely. Now that you removed the hood latch, you can also remove that heavy metal plate behind the interior plastic panel where the hood latch switch is. Another 5-6 lbs weight loss easily.

Pretty soon its going to go on a very serious diet. I had the interior out for the longest time but this car is still currently a street car. If it performs like I want it to in its class at the track I plan on removing the entire dash and all of its components such as the heater core and wires. There a company that makes a fiberglass dash for an avenger that will fit our cars that I'mlooking into.

That a 3-speed A413?

I honestly have no clue. The guy I bought it from said it was from an old skool turbo mini van. I just did brakes on my sister's 01 Dodge neon and it looked almost identical. Is the somewhere on the casing where it might say the code? All of the mounts are custom and it was a tight squeeze getting it in there. I just about have it fully installed at the moment. It has to be pretty trick because it is a reverse manual valve body. Are stock neon transmissions 3 speed?

Well I hit the dyno this week and made some great power. I was only able to make two pulls but all went well. On the first pull on my street tune I made 510. We made a few corrections and on the next pull we made 535. I had no idea the car was capeable of this power. I was only shooting for about 400. All of this is in preperation of the last event of the year next weekened. The event is at MIR in MD, its the fall nationals called imports vs domestics. Theres always a great turn out for this race. I plan on running in the 11.50 index. I don't have a cage or roll bar so I can't compete in any lower class. For next year I would like to see the car in the true street class up against those fast as hondas! Well heres the final dyno run:




http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h436/candes32/

Link is no good.

Picture of dyno sheet?

Graph:

No video link?

Do you have corrected values? Otherwise what were the ambient temp/humidity that day?

Nice numbers!

Updated with video. Don't have corrected values but it was about 60 degrees at about 7 at night.

What gas where you using?

Awesome numbers man! Curious on the type gas also. Q16, c16?

Plain pump gas on this setup. I plan on running some q16 for the race gas tune. Not real sure about the differences between the c16 and the q but I was told to run this by the tuner. I need to install my other 255 as well and possibly get bigger injectors. I would have never thought I would max out 1000s.

Well as far as I know I think you have the record for pump gas then. Congrats!

Originally posted by red95eclipse
Plain pump gas on this setup. I plan on running some q16 for the race gas tune. Not real sure about the differences between the c16 and the q but I was told to run this by the tuner.

Man thats exceptional numbers on pump gas! The original owner/builder of the motor I have in my future track car ran q16 rather than c16. He said he just liked how the car ran on q16 better. I know q16 is more oxygenated than other similar octane rated race gas. Suppose to increase fuel flow.

Wow thats awesome if I hold the record! With this auto in now the numbers are going to be alot lower when I dyno it again. I just finished up the final install of the auto today are drove it for a quick spin around the block and man was I suprised. I've never driven a fwd auto that spins the tires like this. Not to mention the shifts are virtually non existant. From launch through all the gears I never hear the bov till I let off the throttle. As for boosted, I've talked with Crab, the guys you bought your engine from. I was looking to buy his slicks from him just didn't have the cash at the moment. He was running consistant 11.3's right?

Yeah he was running 11.3 @ 123mph with consistent 1.7 60 fts for a while. That was with basiclly the same setup as Hahn's rs turbo. He was running 26 psi on a s20g and q16. The last dyno run he made was at 24 psi, and made 420 whp.

What southbend clutch were you running? Crab ran with a cm stage 4 and when he tried a 100 shot all the clutch did was slip. Im guessing he was making maybe high 500's spraying? Anyways I was looking around and seeing which clutch was preferred on high hp 420a's. Torn between CM, Spec or Southbend.

Personally I have never heard of any bad things from southbend. I can only give an input in what I have used and that is the southbend dxd series clutch. I have the last one right before they consider it a race only clutch. I want to say it is a OFE. When I had it rebuilt 50 miles ago they increased the clamping force too. Its should be rated for almost 500 ft/lbs. I might be selling it soon if this auto works out for me.

Originally posted by red95eclipse
I want to say it is a OFE.

The OFE refers to the disc - Organic & Iron (Fe is the elemental symbol for iron). It utilizes one material on a side and the other on the opposite to produce favorable qualities of both materials.

Nice numbers!! congrats.... I wanted to know whats your setup, or if you had pictures that showed more of the engine bay.

Also how did you go about the MP throttle issue, I had the same issue I tried contacting them but they never replied. I ended up fixing the pin.

Current setup includes: howell 2.2 stroker short block, stage 6 howell cylinder head, 1mm stainless valves, crower stage 4 cams, xtreme performance intake manifold intercooler piping exhaust manifold and downpipe, standard 35r, rc 1000s, megasquirt etc.

Basically I called them and said their product failed and they sent me the replacement parts to fix the broken ones. I've purchased may things from them and this was the only issue I've come across.