hey guy i have a newly built 420a with je 8.8 to 1 pistons eagle rods and stock top end (for now) i am wondering which turbo parts would give me the best results for useable power now and when i break apart the head and put in some mild grind cams and better valve train. and also if i should use more than a stock ecu after boost. i also have a stage 2+ clutch and flywheel set and stock tranny and an obx intake mani and fuel rail with 32 lb (330cc) injectors and a walbro 255 fuel pump and a 3" full exhaust with 4-1 header any suggestions hit me up also if i am gonna need anything else let me know im kinda new to the import scene but plan to stay for life i love it so far. thanks in advance.

just to make things easier heres everything i already have for the build. :)

Engine:
JE pistons 8.8:1
Eagle rods
King Bearings
Melling High Volume Oil pump
OBX 6.25Qt oil pan w/ fittings
OBX intake Mani

Fuel:
OBX Fuel rail
32lb injectors (330cc)
walbro 255 fuel pump

Drivetrain:
SPEC stage 2+ clutch and flywheel set

the engine is already together thats all the aftermarket parts i have all the rest is stock.

oh yeah lol and

Exhaust:
Borla 3" full exhaust
4-1 header

If you are asking a question like this, I suggest you start at the shallow end and work your way in as your knowledge and skills progress. A good place to start is with a complete turbo kit with intercooler, pre-cut piping, FCD, fuel system, and all lines/fittings. You will probably have to add your own boost and EGT gauge. Keep in mind that a lot of "kits" include generic piping that you have to cut/weld and no fuel system. That would likely involve going back to stock injectors for a time. Install the kit exactly as the manufacturer suggests and run the car for a while like that until you know how everything is supposed to work. The boost would be kept low during that period (maybe 8-9 psi). Once you have a feel for how a properly tuned system responds to boost and what EGTs are nomal at different loads, you progress to the next stage. The next stage would be swapping the 330 cc/min injectors back in, changing the ratio on the fuel pressure regulator, and increasing the boost a little (maybe to 12-15 psi). Run that for a while and then you can worry about a heavier clutch, ECU replacement, big injectors, head work, and traction. As you work through these stages, keep searching and reading the message board. Hundreds of people have been through this same process and asked/answered tons of questions.

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

hey i was actually hoping you would respond to this corbin ive read alot of ur post and there pretty awsome and knowledgeable. anyways i was kindof hoping to find a kit to suit my fuel system now if possible but of course i would get an fmu or something like that if i needed to ive looked at alot of kits and done some research but im in afganistan right now with the usmc and research is limited but this site works for some reason lol. but i hope to be able to put it all together when i get home shortly :). but ive looked at the hahn and threadstone (i think thats how u spell it lol) kits and like them both but the threadstone is cheaper of coarse but ive seen that alot of guys ike the hahn alot but like ive said b4 im kinda new to this and dont know but jus a little about the turbo thing im jus used to increasing displacement and things like this but when i heard to lower compression i was like whaaaaa. but ive came along way from where i was lol and am loving it so far but i am just ooking for a good kit that i can use with my fuel now maybe with better management if nessesary. anything else i would need just let me know please it would be greatly appreciated thanks

As far as kits go, there are two main contenders. That is Hahn and Treadstone. I ran one of the original Hahn kits for several years (current design has improved). I was happy with the completeness of the kit, build quality, and completeness of instructions. I like the current Hahn FMIC. I believe that it bolts in using factory holes, fills the front bumper opening, and looks like a fairly well matched design. All that comes at a price and the kit is expensive.

The Treadstone kit is less complete, but allows you to pick out components yourself. If you know what you are doing, that is a good thing. If you need guidance, that opens you up for mistakes. There are some opinions about the Treadstone kit here: http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=8&topic_id=107264&mesg_id=107264&listing_type=search
My main beef is the Treadstone intercooler. I believe it is a poor match for the application. If it weren't for that, I would recommend the kit.

If you want to use the 330 cc/min injectors, then I suggest you get a Vortech S-FMU. It is a standalone fuel pressure regulator. You can set the base fuel pressure down low at idle and install various disks and springs to get the right fuel pressure at full boost. I ran one of those for a couple years with good results. If you bought the Walbro 255 lph High Pressure pump, that will be sufficient for most reasonable injector and boost combinations. Keep in mind that there is a standard and high pressure version of the 255 lph pump.

Corbin
'95 ESI-T

Now with more power and fewer leaks



Humble servant of the Wiki

i did get the high pressure and ill look into that thanks man ur the best

Originally posted by roberts99
I did get the high pressure, and I'll look into that. Thanks man, you're the best.

I can't let this keep going on. Please indicate that you're an educated individual and not one of the retarded asshats that have a bad texting habit. There isn't a character limit on posts that anyone here has managed to hit (although some have tried) so please take the time to use proper spelling, punctuation, capitalization and grammar.

Ur is not a substitute for you're or your. It's a place in the middle east

yeah my intake manifold fits great but i'm not sure about the fuel lines yet but the rail and injectors fit great but thanks for the heads up

So here are some pictures of what i have so far.










And this is obviously broken if anyone knows what it is then let me know please cause I cant find it after tons of searching I've heard rear roller but I dont know

Originally posted by roberts99
/roberts99_clutch.jpg And this is obviously broken if anyone knows what it is then let me know please cause I cant find it after tons of searching I've heard rear roller but I dont know

We have already helped you out on this in another thread. Cross posting questions is not allowed.

Originally posted by roberts99
oh yeah lol and Exhaust: Borla 3" full exhaust 4-1 header

If you plan on using a turbo you are not going to need a 4-1 header. If you go with a turbo kit it will include a turbo manifold.

Originally posted by roberts99
just to make things easier heres everything i already have for the build. :) Engine: JE pistons 8.8:1 Eagle rods King Bearings Melling High Volume Oil pump OBX 6.25Qt oil pan w/ fittings OBX intake Mani Fuel: OBX Fuel rail 32lb injectors (330cc) walbro 255 fuel pump Drivetrain: SPEC stage 2+ clutch and flywheel set the engine is already together thats all the aftermarket parts i have all the rest is stock.

To be honest you have a mix of great and shitty parts. I would sell off the bearings, oil pump, and OBX parts.

Originally posted by CODE4

Originally posted by roberts99 just to make things easier heres everything i already have for the build. :) Engine: JE pistons 8.8:1 Eagle rods King Bearings Melling High Volume Oil pump OBX 6.25Qt oil pan w/ fittings OBX intake Mani Fuel: OBX Fuel rail 32lb injectors (330cc) walbro 255 fuel pump Drivetrain: SPEC stage 2+ clutch and flywheel set the engine is already together thats all the aftermarket parts i have all the rest is stock.

To be honest you have a mix of great and shitty parts. I would sell off the bearings, oil pump, and OBX parts.

Agreed especially with the OBX parts I have tried to use both the OBX fuel rail and intake mani and fitment was horrible I ended up switching back to stock.

The broken part pictured above is the rear mount bracket. The part number is MR145035. Costs $90 from the dealer.