So tonight I finished up my turbo setup. I'm using a 1g stock side mount intercooler, 1g stock intercooler piping, Greddy RS blow off valve, Custom oil drail line.

Issues: The only problems I have ran into so far are; 1) The actual bolting on turbo onto manifold. I had to remove studs from stock header and cut slots into the hole area so the bolts could slide in from the side. Otherwise it would not clear area above manifold flange. 2) The o2 housing on the stock 14b leaves it pointed towards radiator. The down pipe will basically need to be a quick 90 degree angle back toward the oil pan. 3) The stock jpipe is a tight fit. You must attach intercooler piping then bolt to turbo. For this setup I removed my AC so it would fit within space. So far with everything I have only spent about $300

Turbo/o2 housing/j pipe: $60
Autometer boost gauge: $50
Intercooler and piping: $30
Oil drain parts: $20
Sandwich adapter: $30
Pipe w/ Greddy RS: $100

I still need to mock up the oil feed line and find an FMU.

That's a reat start. Way to work with whatcha got!

I would recommend not using the sandwich adapter as your feed. Tapping the back of the block is really simple and cheap as well, and its the "right" way to do it.

But looks good. Would love to see more detailed pics.

I was going to use the oil pressure sender location but it is so much of a b!tch to get to and barely any room to work around. Kudos to everybody that was able to use it. I just couldn't deal with the headache. Also, another member on here is using the sandwich adapter and hasn't had problems or leaks so I opted for the easier of the two evils. BTW, dropping and tapping that oil pan was a p.i.t.a

Nice job man, you're on your way! What are your plans for fuel?

I picked up a Paxton FMU today for $60. It was a steal. I'm going to stick with the fmu @ 7psi. I'm connecting the jpipe off the turbo straight to the stock wastegate. Everything is ready to go except finishing the exhaust & oil feed line routing. I can't wait till it is finished.

Car was finished yesterday morning. Today I put in 110oct and it was good to go. Boosting currently 8psi and a/f is almost perfect at WOT. Huge difference on these cars. I made my kit for a grand total of about $500 after getting custom exhaust work done to clear radiator.

I used break line tubing for the oil feed and fuel hosing for the union points where it comes off the sandwich adapter and where the line connects to the stock turbo banjo flange.

Originally posted by freshlane
Car was finished yesterday morning. Today I put in 110oct and it was good to go. Boosting currently 8psi and a/f is almost perfect at WOT. Huge difference on these cars. I made my kit for a grand total of about $500 after getting custom exhaust work done to clear radiator.

Nice! I love reusing/altering stock. And an economy build to boot :thumbsup Right up my alley.

Couple of questions, why the 110oct? And how long do you think that 4 way union on the mani is going to last without cracking?

Nice job man! would love to see more detailed pics!

I would recomend porting out the mani and hot side of the turbo a lil flow wont hurt lol. BTW what diameter exhaust did you use 2.5 ?


Also might want to use the heat wrap on the down pipe to reduce the engine bay temp. And the stock header heat shield for extra sleeper ... got to love that sleeper kit. Bet you are having lots of fun boosting!


Got to say that boost is so addictive!

I started with 4psi, then 8, then 10 and then 12psi. I did get 241whp @ 10psi with nothing to tune execept my 1:1 FPR. that with a side mount and a ported intake mani that I ported my self with a dremel and a Modern Performance throttle I used 2.5 all the way from the turbo till the back; with no resonators or cat. Hope that helps you.

Let us know how it turns out!

1:1 FPR? Explain please. In response to the question on cracking... I would give it about 2-3 months as it stands right now. As you know that is A LOT of weight to be hanging off a stock header. Hopefully today I will be able to rig/weld some sort of support for the turbo & manifold. I also plan to heat wrap the manifold to lessen the risk and keep temps down as bulletdsm said. I was running 110oct just to be on the safe side for the first time I floored it. The AC would probably work with this setup. I took mine out because it was not being used any how. The radiator fan had to be trimmed a little bit in order to avoid hitting the wastegate on the turbo. I'll try and get some more pictures up once I get out of class. Nothing like school at 7am.

That's bad ass. Glad to see someone actually do this.

Bonus points if you can snap some clearer pictures and put together a basic write up for the wiki! This is something that a LOT of people should be considering.

1:1 ratio, FPR= fuel pressure regulator

I put in new spark plugs gapped to .32 and the car pulls like normal. No cruising drivability issues and it pulls super hard all the way up to redline.

Nice work man. I would also like to see clearer pictures but so far it looks like a clean install. Way better looking that hacking up a NT manifold and Turbo manifold and welding them together like I saw one guy do. :puke

You're going to love that 14b turbo. The super fast spool and decent power up top will keep you happy for a while.

How I did it:

Parts: Most of these parts can be found from 1g and/or 2g turbo DSMs. The turbo is interchangable with the t25 and the sidemount will function and mount the same as well. For our boost levels we really wont need a intercooler but it is suggested for added security.

* Stock 420a header
1g/2g 14b or t25 turbocharger (w/ o2housing, waste gate, feedline, oil return line & j-pipe)
* 1g/2g side mount intercooler (w/ stock upper and lower intercooler piping)
* FMU w/ rate of 14:1 or 12:1
* Oil return barbed fitting (must be roughly the same diameter of the stock oil return fitting on the turbo). I used a brass fitting however if you are going to be welding this in you will need a harder metal.
* JB weld or a friendly cheap welder
* Brake line
* 2.5in pipe w/ flange for blow off valve
* Fuel line (diameters that match the oil return line & brake line)
* Glow shift oil filter sandwich adapter
* Hose clamps for (4) oil feed line and (2)oil return

Optional:
* Boostgauge (just to be on safe side - the turbo jpipe hooked directly up to the waste gate will be arounf 7-8psi. This is just for added security and to keep a eye on things)
* Universal slim fan (keeps engine temps lower to make up for the addition of the turbo).
* Couplers (2.5 to 2.5 in couplers - YOU NEED TWO)
* 2.5in to 1 7/8 exhaust adapter

Tools:

* Brake line bender
* Cut off tool
* Various sockets & Rachet
* Screw drivers
* Wire strippers
* Electric tape

I may have forgot some things. They wil appear as the write up is made.

I made this whole kit for about $500 +/- $50. If you can find people selling the parts locally jump on it and get them. The FMUs are best found from Honda owners parting out their turbo vehicles. The usually have some DSM turbos for sale also. Stay tuned.

Showing how much clearance there is between block and turbo

http://g.imagehost.org/view/0678/CIMG1479>

Location of stock side mount intercooler. Notice it needs to be tilted slighty forward to work. Also the sheet of metal underneath fuse box inside engine bay will need to be slightly cut to fit upper pipe.

http://g.imagehost.org/view/0829/CIMG1475>

Paxton FMU underneath upper intercooler pipe.

http://g.imagehost.org/view/0120/CIMG1474>

Showing fitment of upper and lower intercooler piping.

http://g.imagehost.org/view/0522/CIMG1473>

The brake line coming off the turbo goes to the oil filter housing and attaches to the glow shift sandwich adapter.

http://g.imagehost.org/view/0828/CIMG1472>

Showing fitment of turbo to housing

http://g.imagehost.org/view/0626/CIMG1471>

The header must be slotted to allow bolts to fit. The taper on the stock header will not allow them to go straight down untill they clear the taper. NOTE: Stock studs must be removed unless you drill out holes on turbo side of manifold. I chose not to drill out turbo for the fact that this way I may swap another dsm turbo out easily.

http://g.imagehost.org/view/0433/CIMG1470>

Overall shot of engine bay.

http://g.imagehost.org/view/0731/CIMG1469>

NOTE: Fan shroud must be slotted to avoid the stock waste gate on turbo from hitting it.

Nice job again bro. Just clean up the engine bay a little and take care of that rust forming on the driver side strut tower before it becomes a major problem down the road. :thumbsup

You should add that to the wiki.

Originally posted by DarkOne
You should add that to the wiki.

I don't know how. Also, I will get the rust fixed as soon as I come across some more cash. I want to add WOWWWWW.... our transmissions in 2nd gear are already amazing..... with boost they are unbelievable.

Originally posted by freshlane

Originally posted by DarkOne You should add that to the wiki.

I don't know how. Also, I will get the rust fixed as soon as I come across some more cash. I want to add WOWWWWW.... our transmissions in 2nd gear are already amazing..... with boost they are unbelievable.

try out some neon gears and a bigger motor or higher CR :)

i like 2nd too

That is some serious mcgyver-spec work there. I'm impressed!

ditto on 2nd gear, when you first go above 10 psi :thumbsup

+1 if you can catch 3rd ..LOL

I'm using the sandwich plate adapter as the oil feed and haven't had any problems either. just make sure you Teflon tape all connections.

I have been running a td05 20g on the stock manifold for a few months now. I fabbed up an adapter so that I could use all the bolts on the turbo to help prevent leaks. I also was able to keep the AC compressor by routing the exhaust around it. It was a PITA but its possible. Glad to see someone else attemp this. Good job

This is really making me want to try this. I agree with everyone else about adding this to the wiki. The only thing that i would be worried about is running 7psi on stock internals.

Don't worry about 7psi on your internals. They can take it. I was boost 8-9psi before I sold the 2g (yes I sold it .... and bought a tsi awd). They can take it. Just keep up on your normal maintenance