the ongoing problem i have had with my eclipse since day one of the turbo install still remains. Stutter/misfire wot at 4500rpm and above. I have msns stock ecu controlling ignition. 1:1 afpr and dsm 450cc injectors. when my car was n/a i had ngk wires on it so i left them on for the turbo and i had the stutter problem so i decided to change wires to some 7mm bosch cheap wires. My car actually pulled all the way to redline. So i thought sweet i fixed it well i did a couple more pulls and then i went to do another and it was back to the stuttering at wot 4500rpm. Definately not the plugs either i have tried different kinds different gaps nothing worked. Do you think a thicker wire like the msd 8.5mm wire would remedy this ongoing problem? I am thinking about just replaces the whole ignition system with an aftermarket one. Seems as if i am getting spark blow out under wot or something?

how much are you boosting? What is your ignition advance at WOT when this happens?

I tried it at 3psi 8 and 10 and all yielded the same results. Im not sure about ignition advance. Will it show on megatune? I haven't messed with this car since last august. Megasquirt is only controlling fuel. Will the 8.5mm wires fix this problem?

I tried it at 3psi 8 and 10 and all yielded the same results. Im not sure about ignition advance. Will it show on megatune? I haven't messed with this car since last august. Megasquirt is only controlling fuel. Will the 8.5mm wires fix this problem?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
I tried it at 3psi 8 and 10 and all yielded the same results. Im not sure about ignition advance. Will it show on megatune? I haven't messed with this car since last august. Megasquirt is only controlling fuel. Will the 8.5mm wires fix this problem?

Probably not, because I doubt its directly a spark problem. Most likely you have a MAP sensor issue, cam or crank sensor issue, or your fuel is comletely out of whack in the positive pressure range in your Squirt.

I understand but I had the same issue even with 12:1 fmu and stock injectors with stock ecu. Then I tried the sfmu and 450 injectors and the same thing happend.

None of those have anything to do with the sensors I mentioned. Still might want to check them.

It didn't do this until I installed the turbo. I will check the sensors but what if they are all fine? Will the 8.5mm wires work because my car pullled fine a couple times after I replaced the wires so I figured the 8.5s would do the trick unless its my coil but I think I tested it before and it was fine

I'd listen to Dino if I were you, his snap diagnosis' are almost always dead on.

Our plug wires aren't close enough to any kind of direct heat to really require going larger on the insulator size. in fact, the only time I've ever had issues with a set of plug wires on a 420A, turbo or non, was when the valve cover gasket started leaking in the spark well and allowed the plug wires to fire out through the pooled oil.

I wish dino could drive my car and feel what its doing. Its very weird. Why would my car pull a couple times perfectly with the new wires then go back to its problem? How do I test those sensors?

download a fac. servie manuel, they tell the the omh of what the sensors should be then just take a volt mete tester and see if there inspec, are you throwing ne codes?

i dont have a CEL bulb and when i got it scanned the only thing that came up was the egr which is blocked off. I tested the cam sensor (i followed the steps in the chiltons manual) it didnt really make any sense to me. this is what it says,

With the ignition switch on measure the voltage between harness no.1 and ground, it should be 8.5-9.5 volts. MINE WAS 5 VOLTS
Check the voltage between terminal no.3 and ground. It should be 4.8-5.2 volts. MINE WAS 5.4 VOLTS.
Check to see if there is continuity between the no.2 terminal and ground. There should be continuity. MY CONTINUITY READING WAS 18
THIS IS THE PART I DONT GET>"If the voltage readings are correct, and there is continuity, replace the sensor. If not, repair or replace the harness, or the PCM may be faulty"

damn... my bad...thought this was a new thread.

You have continuity and your voltages aren't in spec. You probably have a bad cam sensor, in that case you should replace it. If the PCM part was confusing you, that's an acronym for Powertrain Control Module. We call it the ECU.

so if the voltage readings were not what the book says they should be and there was no continuity then the sensor would be good? yeah i knew what the pcm was thanks. Do i replace the sensor or the harness going to the sensor? The harness going to the sensor is what i tested.

If there's no continuity you won't get a reading. So that means the harness or the sensor is bad. Since you have continuity but bad voltages, it's the sensor. To put it simply.. the path (the wires) works but the source (the sensor) is fubar. Replace it, your problem should go away.

So when I replace the sensor the voltages will be right at spec?

Yes. All a sensor does is take a reading and convert it to a voltage, which the ECU/PCM interprets using a set of instructions. So right now it's spitting out voltages outside of the allowable range, ie your sensor is bad. A new sensor will put out the correct voltages.

ok i understand only part i dont get is that when i tested the connector that plugs into the sensor, it wasnt attached to the sensor. it was just the connector and the threee wires going to it.

Wow, I guess I was way off. My understanding was that you were testing the other end of the harness with it plugged into the sensor. This invalidates just about everything I was saying.. someone else better step up and pitch in. Sorry I threw you off, but I hope someone can help answer your question.

Man this car is really getting to me. Problem after problem and I can't figure out this misfire stutter I am getting at 4000rpm and up.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
Man this car is really getting to me. Problem after problem and I can't figure out this misfire stutter I am getting at 4000rpm and up.

actually I'm still thinking cam sensor.

So should I just replace the harness connector and the sensor itself and seee what happens?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
So should I just replace the harness connector and the sensor itself and seee what happens?

Start with the sensor itself. Just because you replace the connector with a new 6" of wire spliced into the original wiring harness does not mean a new connector would fix the problem in the wiring if the condition is before the new wiring...know what I mean.

ya i understand. I also tested my coil for resistance and it was bellow 11.5v which the chilton manual says it should be between 11.5-13.5. Im thinking im going to need a new coil pack,cam angle sensor, and crank angle sensor. If that doesnt solve the problem then its either in my wiring or the stock ecu?