hey guys. i have a 98 rst, newly turboed. it was doing fine (other than bogging at WOT) until tonight. i was coming home and figured id see what it could do. so i took it up to about 125 and got off of it so i could make my turn. as soon as i accelerated i noticed it felt like it had a nasty miss in it, and i could smell oil burning. i limped it home and popped the hood and there was oil everywhere. it is definately coming from the sender unit/ oil tee area. the entire way home it was running rich and i couldnt get it to boost barely at all and it was sputtering really really bad. i checked the missing link and that and the filter is fine. i have no idea why it started missing or whatever its doing, but i need help with this asap. i turn into a straight up asshole when its down.

Stock motor?

sounds like a slightly off idle?

Oil / oil vapor from the breather nipple on the valve cover?

bogs when going into boost?

Do a compression test and prepare to be unhappy.

stock motor, breather nipple goes to catch can, been idling high since it was turboed, bogs at wot but i can ease into boost and it does fine. thats what i did tonight but then i guess the tee at the oil sender blew out on one of the sides and just oil everywhere.

Originally posted by eclipserstturbo
thats what i did tonight but then i guess the tee at the oil sender blew out on one of the sides and just oil everywhere.

Sure its not coming from the catch can? How much oil is in the catch can?

How low is your oil? Did the oil light ever come on?

Do a comp. test and report back.

update, absolutely no oil was in it, it all came outta the sender tee and shot all over everything. did a comp test 2day and the results are: cyl. 1- 60psi cyl. 2- 0psi cyl. 3- 155psi cyl. 4- 170psi. so... due to the horrible results of the comp test, im gonna pull the motor this weekend and get it bored 20 over and a 3-angle valve job, and rebuild w/ forged rods, pistons, performance gaskets, titanium valves, lifters and lashers out of a 2.4 pt, and stock valve springs. this is the first time ive ever messed w/ the inside of the motor... period. never even pulled it before, but i learned all about it in school and ill probably be on the search alot before i start the rebuild. hell ive installed my first turbo ever a couple weeks ago by myself, i should be able to rebuild the motor. can u guys think of anything else other than what ive got listed that i should upgrade or replace while its down. i dont wanna do anything thats going to make a drastic difference in the motor, i just want to make it pretty strong so i wont have this problem again anytime soon. any help is grately appreciated guys.

rebuilding the engine does not mean this cannot/will not happen again, something broke, and pretty much fucked your motor.

Just keep that in mind.

Im betting crank ringlands. Let us know what you find out. I had 2 pistons with broken ringlands, car ran fine just smoked a ton when in boost and a little at idle. Ran the car for a month before pulling the motor though.

damn that compression test was no good. how much were you boosting?

9-10psi. No really meaning to. My boost gauge is 1-2psi off so I thought I was around 8ish. Detenation is a b*tch

Originally posted by SilvrEclips
Im betting crank ringlands.

Ring landings are on the piston.

Yes I know where they are located.

Didn't realize I mispelled almost all of those words. My bad guys

well i was boostin 7-8psi. as far as the ringlands, i dont think that is it, cuz even now theres no smoke. going to pull the motor this weekend if everything goes well and see what i f**ked up. i think that the oil sender shot out when i was on it, and that caused somethin to give. my oil pressure gauge wasnt hooked up, and my oil light must not be existant since it was completely empty when i got home and it never came on, and the check engine light was on since the day before. but like i said, gonna try and pull the motor n the next couple days so ill let you know.

I ran my first motor dry and the light didn't so much as flicker. Sucks dude.

hey guys, whats the easiest way to pull the motor. can i pull it w/ the transmission too? im ready 2 get that bad boy out so i can see the damage. ive already got all of the connections off and the ac comp n power steering pump off and outta the way.

I left my tranny in the car. Its kind of a pain to get the motor out but it beats have to drain the oil and pull the axles out in order to remove it.

I've done it every which way and I personally prefer pulling the whole thing, but to each his own. In order to get it out with the tranny still on you will have to tip the motor timing belt side up which takes some elbow grease and an extra person to assist.

Originally posted by Matt_95tgs
I've done it every which way and I personally prefer pulling the whole thing, but to each his own. In order to get it out with the tranny still on you will have to tip the motor timing belt side up which takes some elbow grease and an extra person to assist.

No, you don't necessarily need an extra person, as I've done it by myself; But, it is a serious pain in the ass.

okay, almost got it out. sorry for the delay, havent had much time lately. all i have to do is seperate the motor from the shaft coming outta the tranny. any suggestions. ive already got another motor set up with about 2k on the head that im going to drop in while im building the bombed motor. ive tried just pulling the motor out, didnt work. ive tried to push it to the side, that didnt work. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks alot guys.

Hmm, I did this (just engine alone) once, a long time ago and found I didn't like it (though I have a non modular clutch which makes it a little harder to pull out). You did take the clutch off of the flex plate, correct?

As I recollect, I ended up taking the alternator off then angling the pulley toward the front of the engine bay and pulling her out at a bit of an angle.

I know this is not that informative, but I figured its Christmas and you might want to attack this today. With no responses, at least I'll give you a little something to work with.

well i havent taken ne thing off of the tranny. i still have the alt. on too. but thats a great idea. ill probably be attackin it again tomorrow since its supposed to warm up a bit. thanks alot.

You can drop the whole thing out the bottom without pulling the axles out of the trans, you just have to free them from the hubs and lift the front of the car. it's actually how they put them in at the factory }(

it still requires a cherry picker to gently lower the engine to the ground and you have to get the nose WAY in the air but then you can dissasemble everything at your own leisure

Originally posted by eclipserstturbo
well i havent taken ne thing off of the tranny.

Just in case info;

We have modular clutch set-ups on ours. You need to undo the "clutch pack" (flywheel, clutch and pressure plate all in one) from the flex plate to pull the engine. This may help;

http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Non%20Modular%20VS%20Modular%20Clutch

Good luck tomorrow,

Can I take the clutch off with the trans still in the car? Im kind of stuck here fellas. I really dont want to seperate the axles right now. if i do that i might as well remove the tranny with the motor.

Originally posted by eclipserstturbo
Can I take the clutch off with the trans still in the car?

Yes, you should before you remove the engine (you actually unbolt it from the flexplate and let it lay in there while you pull the engine). From under the car you will see an inspection cover that covers access to the clutch unit and the flex plate. Pull this cover off and you will have access to the 4 bolts that hold the clutch assembly onto the flex plate. Unbolt these (you will have to turn the engine over 90* at a time to get to all the bolts).

If you look at the link I posted previously, you will see a pic of where the bolt goes through (under the heading of modular).

okay. sorry i finally took the time to read the link. before i just looked at it. i think i get it now, and im kicking myself. but im going to go give it a shot. i think i might get it this time. thanks alot.

is there a special tool i need in order to keep the flywheel from moving. everytime i try to unbolt it, all it does is turn the whole thing. o yea, happy new year TEAM 2G!

put a breaker bar on your crank pulley and either pull it in the opposite direction or get it wedged so that the crank can't spin.

impact guns work awesome too, just make damn sure that you've got it rotating the right way or it'll strip the threads really quick. and don't use one to put them back together either for the same reason.

Thanks alot. Ill let you guys know how it goes tomorrow.

well fellas, I finally got it out yesterday. It was way easier than I thought. I'll let you know what broke when I tear into it. I got a nasty rebuild planned for this thing if its still any good. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for all of your help.

Glad to hear it :thumbsup

You know whats funny, I went to pull a motor out of a doner car today and I almost got it out in two and a half hours. I got it down to where all I have to take off is the bolts from the flywheel to the torque converter, the bellhousing bolts, and the engine mount.

hey guys, me again... i think i found out why my motor went. I was looking at it yesterday and i decided to pull on the timing belt and it was indeed loose. pretty sure i bent some valves on that bad boy. i think the missing link failed and caused it to jump, not sure, just my opinion. still going to do the rebuild. think im going to start another post when i start the rebuild since this one got so long.