I am still using a log manifold than I made. I had the flange flattened after welding on it but now it has seemed to be warped up again. I dont know how this happened when no welding has been done on it since then.
Anyways I am going to have it machined again, I have seen on some manifolds where people cut between the runners to allow a little flex. Would this be something I should do? It seems like if I cut between each runner then some would have trouble sealing since there are not bolts on each side of every runner.

Originally posted by SilvrEclips
I am still using a log manifold than I made. I had the flange flattened after welding on it but now it has seemed to be warped up again. I dont know how this happened when no welding has been done on it since then. Anyways I am going to have it machined again, I have seen on some manifolds where people cut between the runners to allow a little flex. Would this be something I should do? It seems like if I cut between each runner then some would have trouble sealing since there are not bolts on each side of every runner.

Yeah you would need to work it out so you would have a bolt in each runner.

So just one bolt is needed in each runner? I can get that but I wont have one on each side

What welding did you do? it shouldnt require to be cut and it will warp just as easy of you cut it. However when you bolt it to the head it will be easy to get it to seal since tightening the 2 bolts each runner will have will only affect the 1 runner. IS this a cast manifold or a Mild steel one?

Terry

Its a mild steel manifold. The manifold was mig welded. I had the flange flattened after that, the manifold has cracked a few times and I have had it fixed. I was talking to my friend who is a welder and he said I would need to stress relieve the manifold to keep it from cracking or warping. The flange right now needs to have around 3/32nds taken off before it will be flat. The flange is going to be thin in the middle and Im scarred it will just warped even easier now.

I think I may just stick it back on and try and make a new one over xmas break. Maybe a good tubular one or something.

Being Mild Steel, I wouldnt keep making it thinner, but you already know that. Just bolt it down the best you can, maybe use a little copper silicone.

I dont know for sure but stress relieving it wont correct the warping. Mild Steel is known not to be the best material for Turbo Manifolds due to its hardness and tendancy to crack. Depending on how thick the material is or how thin I should say, you might just be better off finding a cast log mani or making a SS tubular one.

If your getting cracks around the welds, well that isnt going to change. Welding Mild Steel requires more heat which makes the metal more brittle. You could have a few things adding up to the issue your dealing with.

If you speak with Mark Peachy (quicksilver99)or Josh (Turbo8U) They could give you the best advise on what direction to go next.

So I'm planning on buying a tubular manifold from a 4g63 motor and cutting the flange off and welding a 420a one to it. Im getting some measurements togethe to see if it will even fit the turbo that low but thats the plan right more. It should allow me to use a 4g63 o2 housing which will make running the exhaust easier.

Thoughts on this guys....

Originally posted by SilvrEclips
So I'm planning on buying a tubular manifold from a 4g63 motor and cutting the flange off and welding a 420a one to it. Im getting some measurements togethe to see if it will even fit the turbo that low but thats the plan right more. It should allow me to use a 4g63 o2 housing which will make running the exhaust easier. Thoughts on this guys....

Probably more trouble then its worth and I doubt the turbo will sit in a nice spot. It will probably hit the starter or atleast come super close to it.

Im still going to take some measurements and see if it will fit. I will know something in a few days.

Actually the problem is the 4g63 manifold will put the turbo all the way to the right side of the engine bay. If your power steering and A/C are removed, it will work, if not then your up shits creek.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Actually the problem is the 4g63 manifold will put the turbo all the way to the right side of the engine bay. If your power steering and A/C are removed, it will work, if not then your up shits creek. Terry

Ah, so I was backwards.

Yes I did notice that. A buddy of mine has a turbo manifold for a B18 honda motor. The flange seems to be almost in the center of the runners if not to the right side a little bit. Im getting the dimensions tonight so I will let yall know if its even close to fitting. As long as its pretty close I can tilt the fange some to make it clear the starter.

When I go to weld a new flange to this manifold do I have to tig weld it? I have some wire for a mig welder made for stainless. I have used it before so I know it works well but Im wondering about the heat and running into the same problems I am having know.

I would be more worried about the downpipe clearing if you tilt it to clear the starter.

As for welding. You should TIG weld it. Stainless can be mig welded but you will need to pick up 100% argon bottle and heat control will make it difficult.

Terry

Yea my buddy has all that stuff to weld stainless with a mig setup. Im just not sure if I can get it tiged. I will have to check it out and see.