What all needs to be done to an engine when it is rebuilt... do they just overbore is and put new pistons, rods, rings in? What else is involved. Sorry bout the stupid post.. but im still learnin.

OZ racing package
AEM cold air intake
Sidewinder alarm w/remote start
AFX underdrive pulley

Well depending on what you want to do, if you need to rebuild, do it right if your're gonna boost. New pistons and rings,rods, and bearings, oil pump, all gaskets and seals. the two options when it comes to the cylinders is either boring or honing. Boring will take off metal in the cylinders to enlarge them slightly, while honing will give the cylinder the proper finish to seat in the new rings for maximum compression. If you have a high miliage engine, boring will most likely have to be done, which is great, cause it will give you more displacement(up to 2.4 liter poss?)depending on how much metal can be removed. I'm gonna look into gettin a spare 420A motor to build as i have time and money, cause i want mad BOOST!!! aahhhhh yeeeeaahhhh!! Hope this gives you a little info....

Matt--98 RS
custom shifter(cut&weld meself)
symborski kit
window tint
2700 watt system
15" aluminum Eclipse sub
custom pvc CAI
Dis is jus da beginin!

How much do you think it would cost for me to get JE forged pistons, eagle rods, plus all the other shit i need like oil pump, bearings, gasket? Then how much do you think for install?

OZ racing package
AEM cold air intake
Sidewinder alarm w/remote start
AFX underdrive pulley

I'm workin on an engine rebuild myseld, JE pistons, Crower Rods (which are much better for eagle if u'r going high HP), tooled crank, and all the other good stuff. I also got some head work done.. Ported and polished the head, and new Valve springs w/titanium seals. I've spent upwards of 3500 on the engine, and 5k total for the shop to take it all in and out, clutch and flywheel.


97' Eclipse RS (kinda)
HRC stage III turbo kit (12-18 psi)
HKS 2 1/2" cat back exhaust
16" wheels w/yokohomo tires (215/45)
420A engine w/ billet crower rods, and 8.5:1 JE pistons
powerstop brakes w/axis pads
Ebachi Pro lowering kit (1.8")

Yeah, i take vettes, i love these DSM's

Jay-
wakbrd99@aol.com

boring .020" over only increases your displacement a couple cubic inches. You really couldn't get up to 2.4L with our blocks. if you were to customize a stroker kit you could get her up to 2.2L-2.3L I think 2.4L would be pushign it.

Howellautomotive sells a performance rebuild kit for $1100 if I remember right. That has JE pistons, Hastings Rings, Cleavit77 bearing, oil pump, gasket set. All the parts you need then it's a matter of putting it together or paying someone to. I really don't know what a shop would charge you to do the rebuild.

"Character is doing the right thing when no one is looking."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, EGT (partially installed)

>Howellautomotive sells a performance rebuild kit
>for $1100 if I
>remember right. That has JE
>pistons, Hastings Rings, Cleavit77 bearing,
>oil pump, gasket set. All
>the parts you need then
>it's a matter of putting
>it together or paying someone
>to. I really don't know
>what a shop would charge
>you to do the rebuild.
>

Don't forget, it comes with Eagle rods too. And they also offer Total Seal Rings with the kit.

Check it out here: http://howell.mountain.net/Talon/DSMEngineKits.html




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Cool thanks alot guys

OZ racing package
AEM cold air intake
Sidewinder alarm w/remote start
AFX underdrive pulley

Can you tell me what exactly (.20)overboring the combustion chamber does? Does it just give your engine higher compression? If i were to go ahead and do this should i go for the overbore too or is it just for REALLY high hp cars? Also i see on that howell package that you have a choice between standard or .10 undersize rod and main bearings.... what does that do?

OZ racing package
AEM cold air intake
Sidewinder alarm w/remote start
AFX underdrive pulley

bump...

On a 420a is it better to have 9:1 compression or lower?

OZ racing package
AEM cold air intake
Sidewinder alarm w/remote start
AFX underdrive pulley

the .20 bore is required because the pistons are .20 bigger in dia than the stock pistons, thats all. If you turbo the 420a you want a lower comp ratio is ideal...all motor you want a higher c/r. Compression ratios is what makes your power not the bore size.



chris
blitzdsm1@aol.com

Boring .020" over makes the cylanders round again, then hone the cylander walls to give them the nice crosshatching. You need .020" oversized pistons and rings if you bore the cylanders out so everythign matches or you will not hold oil out of the combustion chhamber and you'll burn oil.. When you get the pistons they are whatever compression ratio you order, oversized or not. .010" undersized bearing are for you machining the crankshaft to clean up the matting surface and making a goot seat with the bearings. If you have the crank machined to take any burs etc off you need undersized bearings.

"Character is doing the right thing when no one is looking."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads, EGT (partially installed)

Which are fresh, because i'm doing all this right now.

The forged pistons come in standard or .020 overbore. Upon dismantling my block, we found that even after 104K hard miles, the stock hatchings were still very apparent, there was no wear ridge, and zero out of round. I probably could have used stock bore pistons. With the stock bore pistons, you have to re-hone the block anyway, as the forged must have a greater piston-to-bore clearance (Forgings expand greater amounts under heat than cast, due to density- we actually did .021, just for clearance).

Unless you have spun a main or rod bearing or otherwised caused damage to your crank (and it's not a matter of "might" - if you have, you'll KNOW), don't bother with the .010 undersized bearings. Our cranks are very tough, and even after (once again) 104K hard miles, my crank was still 100% in spec and only took a little 400 grit to clean up the journals.

The .020 overbore in and of itself will do nothing for your performance. it's more of a safeguard against previous wear, so no matter how many miles, etc, after honing .020 over it'll be fresh and new. Some people have used stock bore pistons, bores machined for the extra clearnace needed, and had no problems.

There is no price difference between standard and .020 over, but it may save you a buck or two on the machine work.

All of these obersevations are mine alone, from working on my motor. Differences are to be expected with any other vehicle, due to maintenance and driving style diferences. Aside from the cracked #2 piston, there was absolutely nothing wrong or out of spec with my motor, even after (here we go again) 104K hard miles.
_____________________________________________
-Dino Yancey
Hello me, it's Me Again!


For Mitsubishi Technical Manuals, INCLUDING the 97-99 electrical and service manuals, click HERE:
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/files/
No MP3 for YOU!

DSM1... if you say that higher compression is what makes the power then why would you want lower compression if your goin turbo? Upgraded pistons and rods should be able to handle the turbo and the higher compression shouldnt they(giving you maximum power)? Thanks alot guys.

OZ racing package
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lower compression allows you to run more boost safer. high compression and boost is dangerous.

Chris Dishmon
chrisdishmon@hotmail.com or
chrisdishmon@yahoo.com (pretty original, huh?)

http://www.threebrain.com/weeeeee.html

1990 GSX (14.1 in the 1/4 mile, so far)
1997 RS (it just looks neat)

So if im gonna be boostin would 8.6 compression be good?

OZ racing package
AEM cold air intake
Sidewinder alarm w/remote start
AFX underdrive pulley

yes. And to save Stan some time, i'll say, unless you're crazy like Stan :). Higher compression gives more power and is good if you're going all motor, but if you're going turbo its best to go with a lower compression so you run more psi's. I think you gain like 4 percent for every point up in compression (ie 9:1 to 10 : 1)

javi d
vroom n' boom

Higher Boost makes more power than Higher Compression.




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono