ok so i made my own boost leak tester and it seems i got some issues...1st when i hooked it up i couldnt get it past 3 psi because of air leaking past my egr valve?and also my bad motor mount caused my motor to damage my intercooler so thats how far i got but one more thing is when my car idles i can hear air coming from the bov?so looks like this week illneed a new egr valve and my work will weld up the intercooler leak for free luckily i work at a radiator shop,but the bov,is it supposed to bleed a little air at idle or do i need a new one?hopfully i can take out all these stupid leaks and have my car fast again...any input on this would be appreciated,thx.

Motors hate intercoolers.

Originally posted by mysteryclipse21
Motors hate intercoolers.

dumbest reply ever....

Originally posted by spooled420

Originally posted by mysteryclipse21 Motors hate intercoolers.

dumbest reply ever....

I think I've seen dumber, but not by much.

BTW motors are electric, most cars run on internal combustion engines

Originally posted by spooled420

Originally posted by mysteryclipse21 Motors hate intercoolers.

dumbest reply ever....

It was meant to be dumb, haha. Sorry for the Sarcasm.

update...so my intercooler checked out ok no leaks there and I purchased a new egr and im hoping I can take my bov apart and fix it from leaking too.hopfully I should be done with leaks for awhile.

depending on how you have your bov set it may just be a little open at idle. Running an atmosphere-venting one it should just be closed at idle, to prevent sucking in dirt, but if it's a recirc by-pass it's very possible it's open a few inches above idle. Partially hence the crushed 1g bov, which i think open around 12Hg, but normally crush to 16-18"Hg, lets you run higher boost (never understood that because they have a bleed port to help hold it down anyway...), and also vent to atmosphere.

so while some of the charge pipes were off I tried pressurising them under water to see if any bubbles appear and sure enough the pipes that had the expensive T style bolt clamps were leaking at the clamps?so I replaced with cheap hose clamps and did the pressure test under water and no leaks now?wtf is up with that, I never saw that one coming :shrug

Crazy.

ok i think I did it wrong :bash when the boost leak tester goes on does the #1 and #4 piston need to be at tdc?I was just thinkin earlyer wouldnt it boost leak past the exhaust port if its not tdc?if so im also worried because of my adjustable cam gears,tdc my exhaus valve might still be open slightly at tdc.HELP HELP HELP!I may half to switch back to stocker cam gears if this is the case....

if you haven't hit the valves yet with the adjustable gears you won't, stop worrying. the timing has to be off at least 4-5 teeth to hit IIRC. most cam gears only adjust up to ~2 teeth if that.

Originally posted by RoninEclipse2G
if you haven't hit the valves yet with the adjustable gears you won't, stop worrying. the timing has to be off at least 4-5 teeth to hit IIRC. most cam gears only adjust up to ~2 teeth if that.

actually thats not what im worried about,Im worried that since I dont have my car timed right because the adjustable cam gears,if its at tdc the exhaust valve may still be open slightly due to valve overlap.If thats the case i wont be able to hear leaks beacuse masive amounts o air will be leaving the combustion chamber past the valves see what im saying.So I'm thinkin remove the camgears;put the stockers in and time it right then boost leak check again.

well since this is 2 egr valves that ive owned this week that leaked boost I did the pepsi can and high temp scilocone block off mod and car seems to be running better but what do i do with te vacuum lines that go to the silinoid?just leave them or will they leak?should i unplug the electrical connecter eather.I didnt unplug anything,..Im just makin sure im doin this right.

leave the vac lines or block them off, don't just disconnect one end.