Please dont bash me. I just wanted to know if I could piece together a kit for less that 500 dollars. I got everything except the wideband.

Is it possible to get a car tuned without a wideband O2?? I recently pieced together a turbo kit and I ran out of money before I could order the wideband. Im running a walbro 255 high flow with stock injectors, cause I only want to run 8 to 10 pounds. I have a SAFC 2 put in and set to gradually raise the fuel when boosting. Im new to all this tuning stuff. I also have a un-named FMU (Got it from a turbo Neon).

I guess what Im trying to get at is, is there anyone near Harrisburg Pa that knows a lot about tuning, and that could help me out. Right now my car is running like sh*t, but there are no codes. When I lightly press the accelerator the car boosts well (5pounds), but when I press on it normally the car sputters like its getting no fuel, or too much. IDK, I just need some help.

Luis.

Originally posted by hnda8r
Please dont bash me. I just wanted to know if I could piece together a kit for less that 500 dollars. I got everything except the wideband. Is it possible to get a car tuned without a wideband O2?? I recently pieced together a turbo kit and I ran out of money before I could order the wideband. Im running a walbro 255 high flow with stock injectors, cause I only want to run 8 to 10 pounds. I have a SAFC 2 put in and set to gradually raise the fuel when boosting. Im new to all this tuning stuff. I also have a un-named FMU (Got it from a turbo Neon). I guess what Im trying to get at is, is there anyone near Harrisburg Pa that knows a lot about tuning, and that could help me out. Right now my car is running like sh*t, but there are no codes. When I lightly press the accelerator the car boosts well (5pounds), but when I press on it normally the car sputters like its getting no fuel, or too much. IDK, I just need some help. Luis.

adjusting for boost correction with an afc practicly does nothing. most people here only use safc's to lean out an idle when using larger injectors. also, you should have gotten a good fmu. and you could be seeing fuel cut. do you have a missing link or fcd ?

I forgot to mention that I have a Missing Link. And besides the 200 dollar SFMU, what could I use?

Originally posted by hnda8r
I forgot to mention that I have a Missing Link. And besides the 200 dollar SFMU, what could I use?

You could use a Vortech FMU. If you have stock injectors, use a 12:1 calibration kit with it. I personally would not use any other brand besides Vortech and Aeromotive which I use now.

Get rid of the no namer FMU you have now and use a good one. I realize you are a tight budget to turbo your car, but keep in mind, if you use junk parts that could have a tendency to fail, you will be replacing an engine possibly. Not saying a better brand would not or could not fail either, but its much more likely for them not to.

You get what you pay for.

Ok, Im going to park the car til I get a "name brand" FMU. Looks like my car will be sitting for awhile. Thanks.

Luis.

do you have a fuel pressure gauge or any way to monitor if in fact your rail pressures are rising when you get into boost?
could be that the fmu you have now is faulty or *may* be hooked up wrong so that it wont rise propperly.
or (contrary to my friend above :P ) the fmu could be just fine and you are hitting cut because your missing link is fubared, which is why more and more people here are switching to a FCD instead.
now THAT piece you can get cheap from people here.

Well I followed everything that is said on the SAFC tuning guide on here by RS_Guy, and now it takes my car a couple times to turn over and it really idles like crap and runs like crap. I do not have an open empty road that I could tune it like the guide said to. So now Im completely confused, and I need some hands on help ASAP. I could pay someone to look at it, I just want it driveable again. Im desperate here. LMK

Luis.

take all that crap off your car....you don't seem to know what your doing, and u don't know how to figure out what ur doing by searching....

you could piece 1 together, but it would be crap, so why would u want to?

you say ur desperate, which prolly means u need this car reliable...so take all the crap u tried to put on it off..im really surprised the thread went on this long...after all it did start out with "don't bash me guys"

look luis , its called search function. if you want to boost a car , u need more then 500 bux, and in your case, you need daily diver b/c uve now screwed ur car over so bad it wont drive or idle normally.

Originally posted by streetlightning
take all that crap off your car....you don't seem to know what your doing, and u don't know how to figure out what ur doing by searching.... you could piece 1 together, but it would be crap, so why would u want to? you say ur desperate, which prolly means u need this car reliable...so take all the crap u tried to put on it off..im really surprised the thread went on this long...after all it did start out with "don't bash me guys" look luis , its called search function. if you want to boost a car , u need more then 500 bux, and in your case, you need daily diver b/c uve now screwed ur car over so bad it wont drive or idle normally.

Relax dude. I dont recall you being the most knowledgable person here, or the best tuning expert either, so why are you coming here bashing this guy? Get lost.

He came here asking for some help, not a typical newbie question how to do this or that. He got his shit together and now he is just having some issues with it running correctly. It has hapened to me before as well, so stfu.

If a question has been asked 10 million times, everyone here knows I will be the first to jump on them. Has this been asked in the passed, maybe, but I dont recal any recent anwers to his specific question.

Now we are here to help everyone out, so we will continue to do so.

Its not my daily driver. Also I have pieced together a turbo kit before on my buddy's car a long time ago. Last that I heard (he moved outta state) the car is running great. He was really good with electronics and understanding them. The only thing I need help on is this air to fuel ratio crap, and get rid of this fuel cut.

Luis.

Originally posted by streetlightning
take all that crap off your car....you don't seem to know what your doing, and u don't know how to figure out what ur doing by searching.... you could piece 1 together, but it would be crap, so why would u want to? you say ur desperate, which prolly means u need this car reliable...so take all the crap u tried to put on it off..im really surprised the thread went on this long...after all it did start out with "don't bash me guys" look luis , its called search function. if you want to boost a car , u need more then 500 bux, and in your case, you need daily diver b/c uve now screwed ur car over so bad it wont drive or idle normally.

please get lost

Originally posted by hnda8r
Well I followed everything that is said on the SAFC tuning guide on here by RS_Guy, and now it takes my car a couple times to turn over and it really idles like crap and runs like crap. I do not have an open empty road that I could tune it like the guide said to. So now Im completely confused, and I need some hands on help ASAP. I could pay someone to look at it, I just want it driveable again. Im desperate here. LMK Luis.

do you have pin outs set correctly and all the settings on the AFC correct?

Yes I have the pin outs done correctly, and I set up the AFC just like the AFC guide on this site. Im going to try to do set it up again, and read the guide over again and see if I missed something. That how to should at least get the car driveable. That way I could try to get it to a dyno or something. According to the how to, your supposed to hold the accelerator to a certain rpm and adjust from there, but I dont have an empty open road and also dont really have someone that could sit there and help me out.

Luis

Originally posted by hnda8r
Yes I have the pin outs done correctly, and I set up the AFC just like the AFC guide on this site. Im going to try to do set it up again, and read the guide over again and see if I missed something. That how to should at least get the car driveable. That way I could try to get it to a dyno or something. According to the how to, your supposed to hold the accelerator to a certain rpm and adjust from there, but I dont have an empty open road and also dont really have someone that could sit there and help me out. Luis

Luis, you must realize something, the AFC is not going to drasticly tune your engine. They are pretty used for fine tuning, like I said before, most people only use these on the 420a to lean out a idle when using large injectors. On another note too, dont go crazy with the AFC, they can pull a lot of timing and if you dont have a wideband to check your AFR or an EGT gauge, these should be yoru next expense.

never said i was a tuning expert...

as for the ?, i thought it was newbish, it didn't seem like he had a good grasp on "tuning" (not saying i know all either), but theres more then just the A/F crap, what bout EGT? do you plan on monitoring that? sorry, it just bothers me how were all do it right or not at all around here, and then this sorta post pops up. i know were all on turbo budgets, but 500$, come on lol..neways..im not understanding why the advice is to continue using an SAFC? i thought it was general consensus that they suck. if your running a SFMU, why not get #30's, and eliminate the source problem (the SAFC). From my understanding and searching on here, they cause way more problems then they fix..so sorry if i hurt some ones butt..
Imo, since u have the Missing link, get an SFMU, get #30s, and sell the SAFC. that way ur good to go for the 8 psi u want to run.

Originally posted by streetlightning
never said i was a tuning expert... as for the ?, i thought it was newbish, it didn't seem like he had a good grasp on "tuning" (not saying i know all either), but theres more then just the A/F crap, what bout EGT? do you plan on monitoring that? sorry, it just bothers me how were all do it right or not at all around here, and then this sorta post pops up. i know were all on turbo budgets, but 500$, come on lol..neways..im not understanding why the advice is to continue using an SAFC? i thought it was general consensus that they suck. if your running a SFMU, why not get #30's, and eliminate the source problem (the SAFC). From my understanding and searching on here, they cause way more problems then they fix..so sorry if i hurt some ones butt.. Imo, since u have the Missing link, get an SFMU, get #30s, and sell the SAFC. that way ur good to go for the 8 psi u want to run.

see there you go THINKING again. if you do know something for sure like how an AFC works for us, dont chime in on it dude.

i used one and absolutely loved it. it works awesome for fine tuning low rpm and idle.

Ok ok....so what exactly do you guys suggest I do / get?

I did happen to find a dyno thats around 10mins from my house, should I just try that? I tried that RRE website on the AFC and I put in the setting that has pretty much all stock 2gn turbo Eclipse w a T25. The car idles fine now (steady 900), but when I accelerate, even just a little, the car shutters like it starving for fuel or its getting too much fuel. IDK, I think Ill just let it sit til I can get an appointment to dyno tune it. Unless there are different suggestions. lmk

Luis

I'd start by removing the safc for now. Your current setup doesn't really need one. If you still have problems after its removed then you know its something else.. You just need to narrow down the places that could be an issue. And get a real electronic FCD.. They are cheap and much more reliable than the missing link

Originally posted by mcgyvr
I'd start by removing the safc for now.

Agreed. They are about 95% useless on our cars unless you are using bigger injectors and trying to bring down your idle richness.

Since yuor using stock injectors, remove the SAFC. its most likely what your issue is. Your high settings are off. Either "Zero" out the high and lo settings or remove it.

Terry

How exactly do you "zero out" the afc, do you mean go to the Initalization menu? Sorry my afc didnt come with instructions. lol.

Also I have a walbro 255 high flow in, should I go back to the stock fuel pump? Do you think that would flow enough? I only want to boost 8 pounds max til I can build up my other block with forged internals.

So right now Im thinking of taking out or zeroing the afc, Im also going to put on my stock fuel pump, and see if there are any other issues. Im going to be purchasing a FCD sensor, and getting rid of my missing link.

Am I missing anything? I guess what Im really trying to ask is what is needed to run 8 pounds of boost, safely?

Thanks
Luis

Leave your pump in, stay with the 12:1 FMU you have. LEave the missing link in since you already bought it, just remember to clean it when you do oil changes.

I am real rusty on the SAFC but if you press the arrows it should take you to the RPM points If i recall (graphic display). Just move to each RPM point and set it at Zero or right in the middle. You have two graphs, one for the high throttle setting and one for the low settings. Zero both of them out. If you can figure it out, you can download the instructions from Apexi or I can look it up for you.

Terry

Alright heres an update. I zero'd out the SAFC 2 like starturbo said to. I kept the Walbro in and my FMU. I started the car and it seemed to idle fine, but when I pushed the accelerator, the same thing happens. The car really struggles in the 2-2.5rpm, and the 4-4.5rpm.

Could there be something wrong with the FMU?? Also my walbro fuel pump has a loud steady humming sound, is that normal?? I had one in my 94 Talon ESI and I dont remember it being so loud.

Tell you guys what, Im going to try to get a video of what my car is doing tonight or tomorrow, and then yall could tell me whats up, maybe.

Luis

Well I tried recording it last night, and when I went to view it on my computer, the sound kept cutting out and the picture was blurry. I guess my camera is taking a shit. Ill try again tonight to see if I can get it to work.

I turned the car on to go fill up, and when I pushed the accelerator the car really bogged down. Im guessing way to much fuel. Im going to try to adjust the FMU, to see if that helps any. So when I lightly press on the gas the car sputters, does that mean lean?? And when I press it normally the car boggs, to rich?? My fuel curve seems to be all jacked up.

Luis.

I tried adjusting the FMU, and the car seemed to run a little better, but when I took it out for a spin it doesnt want to boost. It sounds like it but theres no pull at all. It still wants to sputter around the 2-3.5 rpm, but when I hit the gas it doesnt bog down too much.

Ive been trying to call my so called friend that put together my kit, and hes no where to be found and he wont answer my phone calls. I think he knows that Im pissed off and that maybe he put something on the wrong way. Is there anyone on this forum thats in or near Harrisburg Pa?? Im up shits creek without a paddle here. Just need someone that can look over my setup.

Luis <---PISSED OFF!!!

Hey man, wanted to know what if you found your problem. I live in york and would be happy to help any way that I can.. Im nowhere near as good as most off the guys on here but my car runs pretty good I think with out actually being tuned. So let me know if theres anything I can do to help and its kinda nice to know that theres someone close to ya thats on the forums

Roy

Sweet!! Im pm'd you to let you know what times Im available, and cell number. Thanks man.

Luis

Originally posted by streetlightning
never said i was a tuning expert... as for the ?, i thought it was newbish, it didn't seem like he had a good grasp on "tuning" (not saying i know all either), but theres more then just the A/F crap, what bout EGT? do you plan on monitoring that? sorry, it just bothers me how were all do it right or not at all around here, and then this sorta post pops up. i know were all on turbo budgets, but 500$, come on lol..neways..im not understanding why the advice is to continue using an SAFC? i thought it was general consensus that they suck. if your running a SFMU, why not get #30's, and eliminate the source problem (the SAFC). From my understanding and searching on here, they cause way more problems then they fix..so sorry if i hurt some ones butt.. Imo, since u have the Missing link, get an SFMU, get #30s, and sell the SAFC. that way ur good to go for the 8 psi u want to run.

Doing a 850 dollar turbo install on my 420a, is that okay with you? you can really bring down the price if you have months of sitting and emailing people on forums, checking for sale posts and comparing prices. plus it helps that i am getting my megasquirt for 150 bucks. :P so if the guy says he spent 500 dollars on the turbo set up, what if they are all great parts, and he just found some people who just had it laying around?

Originally posted by navyguns

Originally posted by streetlightning never said i was a tuning expert... as for the ?, i thought it was newbish, it didn't seem like he had a good grasp on "tuning" (not saying i know all either), but theres more then just the A/F crap, what bout EGT? do you plan on monitoring that? sorry, it just bothers me how were all do it right or not at all around here, and then this sorta post pops up. i know were all on turbo budgets, but 500$, come on lol..neways..im not understanding why the advice is to continue using an SAFC? i thought it was general consensus that they suck. if your running a SFMU, why not get #30's, and eliminate the source problem (the SAFC). From my understanding and searching on here, they cause way more problems then they fix..so sorry if i hurt some ones butt.. Imo, since u have the Missing link, get an SFMU, get #30s, and sell the SAFC. that way ur good to go for the 8 psi u want to run.

Doing a 850 dollar turbo install on my 420a, is that okay with you? you can really bring down the price if you have months of sitting and emailing people on forums, checking for sale posts and comparing prices. plus it helps that i am getting my megasquirt for 150 bucks. :P so if the guy says he spent 500 dollars on the turbo set up, what if they are all great parts, and he just found some people who just had it laying around?

yea, you could piece together a kit for 850 and like you said, keep waiting and checking 10 different sites, but who the hell wants to do that? Maybe you do, but when I want something, I want to get my hands on it and on my car as fast as I damn can.

Shitness, a decent turbo is going to cost atleast 500 bucks. Or if your using a tiny lawn mower turbo, thats a different story.

I dont know what you do for a living, but I cant afford a 3000 dollar kit, or even a 1500 kit. I would love to just go out and buy a kit, but I just cant. I had to make mine and cheaply, so thats my life. Im going to make sure it runs really good, and keep up with the maintenance.

Luis

Its just taking your time man, who says you have to boost your car right now? Hell its taken me 2.5 years just to almost be turbo'd but I now have all the supporting stuff to go along with boost. Just take your time and make the right purchase the first time or you will end up buying parts twice.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by navyguns

Originally posted by streetlightning never said i was a tuning expert... as for the ?, i thought it was newbish, it didn't seem like he had a good grasp on "tuning" (not saying i know all either), but theres more then just the A/F crap, what bout EGT? do you plan on monitoring that? sorry, it just bothers me how were all do it right or not at all around here, and then this sorta post pops up. i know were all on turbo budgets, but 500$, come on lol..neways..im not understanding why the advice is to continue using an SAFC? i thought it was general consensus that they suck. if your running a SFMU, why not get #30's, and eliminate the source problem (the SAFC). From my understanding and searching on here, they cause way more problems then they fix..so sorry if i hurt some ones butt.. Imo, since u have the Missing link, get an SFMU, get #30s, and sell the SAFC. that way ur good to go for the 8 psi u want to run.

Doing a 850 dollar turbo install on my 420a, is that okay with you? you can really bring down the price if you have months of sitting and emailing people on forums, checking for sale posts and comparing prices. plus it helps that i am getting my megasquirt for 150 bucks. :P so if the guy says he spent 500 dollars on the turbo set up, what if they are all great parts, and he just found some people who just had it laying around?

yea, you could piece together a kit for 850 and like you said, keep waiting and checking 10 different sites, but who the hell wants to do that? Maybe you do, but when I want something, I want to get my hands on it and on my car as fast as I damn can. Shitness, a decent turbo is going to cost atleast 500 bucks. Or if your using a tiny lawn mower turbo, thats a different story.

I have no problems taking my time as i wont even see the parts i am ordering for months. I am in the persian gulf right now, so yeah, parts shopping is keeping me busy, and positive.

and yes, i am going with a smaller, faster spooling turbo as i am staying stock internals for now and i dont see the need to get rediculous with it. might just keep it at 200whp and get another project car. its my first turbo install, and i am learning so much about cars from a guy on our ship, and I am getting a good idea of how to do it from the great guys on this forum. except the occasional flamer.

I am taking my time, I bought this kit of a Turbo'd Neon really cheap. They pretty much have the same setup except for a few things, but Im getting by. Slowly but surely Im going to get this car on the road again. I just have to get the dam fuel issue taken care of.

Hey Mike I put in a bid on a Vortech FMU, so hopefully this would be the last part that I purchase.

Hey Luis...so I see you're finally trying to get the car boosted. IMO, just keep it simple with the FMU 12:1, stock injectors and the 255 Walbro. Definitely lose the SAFC because you don't need it. This setup is fool proof and should require no tuning. Hit me up if you need help, since I'm live closer to you now. I also have a Votech FMU and FMIC w/piping that I bet you could use.

Ron

Hey Ron what up?? Yup Im finally boosting my car. I have ordered everything needed except for the 12:1 Vortech FMU. You have one for me?? Im sending you a PM

Now is it ok to leave the SAFC in just incase I get bigger injectors, or just take it out completely?? Right now I have it zero'd out, also set to 4cyl with the up arrow, 7 in 7 out, karman and I believe thats it. LMK anyone.

Thanks
Luis

Karman is the wrong sensor type.

Pull it out.

Originally posted by hnda8r
Now is it ok to leave the SAFC in just incase I get bigger injectors, or just take it out completely??

I would take it out, sell it and use the money to buy some premium petro :thumbsup

Alrighty then, Im going to take it out tonight. Kinda sucks cause I soldered the wires.

What do you mean Karman is the wrong setting? The safc wont let me change it.

Luis

Originally posted by hnda8r
Alrighty then, Im going to take it out tonight. Kinda sucks cause I soldered the wires. What do you mean Karman is the wrong setting? The safc wont let me change it. Luis

Karman is the setting needed to run on the 4g63 also, I used to run mine with the pressure in and out set at 6 not 7

I tried changing it to 6 but then the car started bucking and eventually die. SO I left it at 7in 7out.

Luis