I have a 95 eclipse rs with the turbo already on it. I have been running the fmu setup and finally stepped it up to 450cc injectors with the sfmu.I just bought this sfmu and have a couple questions.

1. How do i connect that braided hose to my fuel rail?
2. It didnt come with a fitting for the return on the sfmu what can i use to connect the sfmu to the stock return hose?
3. Which is the bleed valve picture one or picture two?
4. What does picture three go to?

Having a craptech myself on a '97 w/ a pretty SFMU still sitting on a shelf (yeah, I know)... I always monitor discussions on switching over from one to another, being supposedly simple (cuz I've still not done it).

Some very good linx to help spur things:
http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=SFMU%20Installation%20Diagram
http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=About%20the%20SFMU
http://www.2gnt.com/index.php?d=Fuel%20Return%20Line%20Set%20Up

- J




WTB: sunroof paneling (tan), black plastic inserts around fogs, stock power antenna

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
I have a 95 eclipse rs with the turbo already on it. I have been running the fmu setup and finally stepped it up to 450cc injectors with the sfmu.I just bought this sfmu and have a couple questions. 1. How do i connect that braided hose to my fuel rail? 2. It didnt come with a fitting for the return on the sfmu what can i use to connect the sfmu to the stock return hose? 3. Which is the bleed valve picture one or picture two? 4. What does picture three go to?

3. picture one is the bleed valve.
4. picture three is a restrictor that goes inline in your vacuum line.

im too nice as it is...all out. search for everything else or someone may chime in with niceness cause my brain is KIA from the rest of my crap ass day. newbzy

I've actually had the same question as you. My car's a 95 too and I've had a SFMU on the shelf for a while just because I couldn't figure out how to connect the ss line from the SFMU to the fuel rail nipple. But I think I'm going to just ditch the SS lines and buy (2) 6-an to barbed fittings and connect it using rubber lines. I'm currently running stock injectors and rubber lines to my FMU which have sprung leaks a couple due to 100+ psi but it shouldn't be a problem with larger injectors and the SFMU. But if you wanna stick with the SS lines, I did find a post where someone mentioned converting the nipple on the fuel rail to flare fitting...but I don't know anything about that.

yeah i think im going to just do the 6an to barb too and use the rubber hose. I seen a post like that too and im well capable of welding in the fitting on the fuel rail but what if i want to ditch the sfmu for some reason? Think Autozone or Murrays would have the 6 an to barb?

ok for the LAST time . . .

use a valve stem removal tool to remove the test port core.
use a -4an line bout 12" long terminated with female ends
**Note**: if you have the rail that is inline with the rail you may need a 90* fitting on one end of your -4an line determine this FIRST so when you build the SS line its correct, otherwise you get into a bunch of adapters that can be spots for leaks
conect one end to the fuel rail
the other end is for the adapter to your SFMU. usually its a -4AN to 1/4 NPT
**Bonus Note**: AN fittings are finger tight + 1/4 turn. no more!!

alright well until i upgrade my fuel rail im going to go with the rubber lines.

It didn't come with a barb for a return line thats why you didn't get one. That stainless line will screw right into the end of the fuel rail, its a 4an connection. That barb is a vaccume restrictor, it goes inline with the vaccum hose to the top of the sfmu. That bleed valve is connected to the sfmu, some people use it, some peole dont. That little barb with the screw in it came with the bleed valve. If you don't want to use the bleed valve then unscrew that flat head screw from the brass fitting and take the bleeder out of the sfmu and put the screw where the bleeder is at. There were also some instructions in there that came with the sfmu, the dark spring is in it and the largest disk is in it. You might want to check how snug the allen bolts are in there though because I didnt have an in-lbs torque wrench on me when I tightend them down.

Originally posted by Slo2g
It didn't come with a barb for a return line thats why you didn't get one. That stainless line will screw right into the end of the fuel rail, its a 4an connection...

So correct me if I'm wrong, but you're saying that the stock nipple on the return end of my '95 fuel rail (that currently has a 1/4" rubber fuel line clamped to it) is also capable with a -4an fitting. And a -4an fitting will screw directly onto it??? If this is true, then my problem's solved.

Not on the return itself, there should be a test port on the fuel rail somewhere. You remove the Shrader valve in the test port and screw a 4an femal connection on to it. Then run a fitting from the bottom of the sfmu to the (a. stock return line if you want b. upgrade the return line to a bigger size and run your own line back to the fuel pump.)

I could be wrong... but if you use the bleed valve I believe it needs a one way check valve so air only exits the SFMU through it.

yes, its another part.

actually on the 95 fuel rail the test port is all the way on the passenger side of the fuel rail. Even if you were to mount the sfmu on the passenger side on the firewall and run the ss hose to the test port you still have to worry about the return line and what you are going to do with the barb that is coming off of the drivers side of the fuel rail. I am just going to get a 1/4" to 3/8" barb and use two of them and just use the same hoses that are going to my fmu right now.

Dude, most people mount it on the passenger side. The that ss line will just screw right on to the end of your rail. The return line is simple to run. Just go to lowes and see what screws into the bottom and goes to a barb and run a return back to the fuel pump. Check out the main wiki for here and its got what to do to the fpr.

its different with a 95 though. What do i do with the return part of the fuel rail? i have to complete this, this weekend before monday.

You can just run the line out of the sfmu to the stock return line if you want. Check out the main wiki page and it will show you what to do. Its in Car, Mods, Power.

Slo2g, a '95 fuel rail isn't like the one in the wiki.

So, I'm also going to just go ahead and get the barbed fittings and stick with the rubber lines because I'd rather use the return line on the fuel rail...then use the test port for the pressure gauge.

ok everything is intsalled. i disabled my 95 fpr and my sfmu isnt adjusting my idle or static pressure at all. I have the vacuum screw and boost screws all the way in. Why isnt it adjusting??

I have 450cc dsm injectors,sfmu with 272 disc ring combo and small dark hard spring,my idle fp and my static fp wont adjust.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
I have 450cc dsm injectors,sfmu with 272 disc ring combo and small dark hard spring,my idle fp and my static fp wont adjust.

You probably do not have it installed correctly is my guess.

I think it is safe to say that you have no idea what your doing modding your engine man. I seriously think you should take off your turbo kit before something bad happens.

I am more than willing to help anyone out anyway that I can, but you just have post after post of problems and the fact that you STILL have NOT even diagnosed your original problem gets my panties bundled up. I personally cannot stand when people do not diagnose their cars right, they just start guessing and throwing money and parts into it for no reason at all, kind of what you are doing.

You had an issue with your MAP seeing 6v on the 5v ref, so instead of furthur looking into this issue, you throw some 450's and a SFMU on the car.

I bet you come back a few days later and say your problem has not been fixed and what do you do now.

Sorry for being a jerk, but I think your on the wrong path buddy.

its weird like in first gear my fp isnt even rising when i hit boost. someone needs to come over and help i cant get this thing set right

Make sure there are no vaccum leaks around the top of the smfu and make sure the bleed vavle is not leaking too. You do know(just because you haven't said, not trying to be an ass) that to adjust static pressure you adjust the top of the sfmu and not the ports on the side right? Also make sure you don't have a kink in the return line etc.

no kink in the return i have the vacuum and boost port screws all the way in. My idle fp will not adjust below 20psi. I have my stock fpr disabled too. When i test drove my car yesterday my fp didnt rise when i was boosting in first gear.

There has been some people that have had problems with lowering fuel pressure with the stock sized return line. To drop below 20psi you may have to upgrade to a bigger return line.

what about my fp not rising under boost?

Not sure, the unit worked when it was pulled off the last car. Do you have an in car fp gauge or wideband?

Originally posted by Slo2g
Not sure, the unit worked when it was pulled off the last car. Do you have an in car fp gauge or wideband?

yea seriously, where is your fuel pressure gauge located at.

i still think you should hang this project up man. something is going to blow...

it has to be something simple. I have a fuel pressure tester and when im driving the car i have my dad look at it. its tapeED to the windshield. Do you think 3/8" hose will be big enough to drop my idle fp a little?

Any little bit will help but most just run a 6an line from the fpr to the return on the tank. Where is the fp gauge "tapped" into? Test port?

yea its screwed into the test port. im trying to stay aaway from the braided hose for now. What size fuel injector hose do you think i would need? What do i do with the hardlines that are in the engine bay?

The 450s are fine, the hard lines would just be there. I have a couple of things tied into my test port. I have a 1:1 rising rate regulator, and a nitrous fuel solenoid. Its ok to do that but you would have to either plug the stock return line or use it. You could swap the fuel rail from a later modle than a 95 and then you could run your own return line. I went to a local shop and had 20 feet total fuel line made in 6an stainless braided line for about $110. you could. I have to go to work now, but it shouldn't be that hard. If you wanted to test the sfmu then you can use a hand pump and increase pressure at the vaccum/boost port on the sfmu and see what the fuel pressure rises too, and when you set that static fp you know you are not susposed to have the vaccum line connectec right?

yeah i guess im gonna try that hand pump test real quick

test drove the car got the fp to raise while boosting but it stutters pretty bad around 4k rpm

Do you have a wideband? Read the directions on the sfmu and search on here how to tune with it. Glad you got it somewhat working, best of luck with it.

i think once i get a bigger return line it should idle and run a lot better. With 3/8" hose do you think i will be able to lower my idle fp to around 16psi? Thats about 4 or 5psi of fp from where its at now.

alright i got some 3/8" fuel injector hose and now i can adjust my idle below 20psi. Right now its set to 14psi idle fp. It idles so much better and now my blinky narrow band gauge is going back and forth or stays in optimal whereas before i changed the idle fp it was burried in rich. Thanks to everyone that helped.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
alright i got some 3/8" fuel injector hose and now i can adjust my idle below 20psi. Right now its set to 14psi idle fp. It idles so much better and now my blinky narrow band gauge is going back and forth or stays in optimal whereas before i changed the idle fp it was burried in rich. Thanks to everyone that helped.

thats too low, raise it to about 18psi atleast.

and nb02's are junk, dont rely on that

I thought 14-18psi idle fp is ok. I dont have a safc to lean it out. Hey, the nb02 is better than nothing i guess.