i bought one of mikes 3 wire adjustable fcds. I have the fcd wired correctly for sure! Thats not the problem. When i adjust it using the multimeter i can only get it down to 6v. When i blow into the map sensor it goes to 5.5v and no lower. The voltage needs to be at 4.6v What should i do??

Check the wiring. It's probably mixed up. Contact Mike for help.

you think he might have mixed up some of the wires or something? if its not one thing its another with this car. ugh

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
you think he might have mixed up some of the wires or something? if its not one thing its another with this car. ugh

negative. we will work this out brotha.

theres nothing i can do?? I want to go to the track today its high school nationals =(

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
theres nothing i can do?? I want to go to the track today its high school nationals =(

I told you to take it apart and see if anything came un-soldered, did you do so?

ruled out the fcd and the map sensor? What else could it be the ecu or harness???

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
ruled out the fcd and the map sensor? What else could it be the ecu or harness???

i would remove the FCD and check your power, ground, signal wires from the OE harness to see whats going on man..

its spitting out too many volts on the signal wire. its reading 6v on the signal wire and 5.5 when blowing into it. It still wont go down at all. I dont know what to do im guessing its a problem related with the ecu and i dont know anywhere to take it. They are going to say well i cant help you the car is meant to be n/a.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
its spitting out too many volts on the signal wire. its reading 6v on the signal wire and 5.5 when blowing into it. It still wont go down at all. I dont know what to do im guessing its a problem related with the ecu and i dont know anywhere to take it. They are going to say well i cant help you the car is meant to be n/a.

is this measuring voltage WITHOUT the FCD even installed?

yeaah

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
yeaah

hmm, you shouldnt have more than 5v at the reference wire...

the signal wire right??? its the yellow/black

No, the green/yellow Vref wire. Vref should provide a relatively stable +5V with respect to chassis ground. The yellow signal wire should vary linearly according to engine vacuum.

Originally posted by VelocitaPaola
No, the green/yellow Vref wire. Vref should provide a relatively stable +5V with respect to chassis ground. The yellow signal wire should vary linearly according to engine vacuum.

jack pot

so changing these wires should work?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
so changing these wires should work?

Did you try it yet?

wont adjust under the same thing wtf!!!!? The positive lead from the multimeter goes to the signal wire and the negative to a grounding source correct??? This is exactly what im doing and it wont adjust!! Im blowing in the map sensor too and it just wont adjust down anymore

Have you tried both directions turning the adjustment screw? What voltages are you reading?

yeah i have tried both directions when i adjust it to turn the voltage up it does. When i turn it down the lowest it will go is 6 without blowing into the map sensor and 5.5v when i do blow into the map sensor.

Woah, you have a 95 eclipse.

Why are you even bothering with the fcd might i ask?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
yeah i have tried both directions when i adjust it to turn the voltage up it does. When i turn it down the lowest it will go is 6 without blowing into the map sensor and 5.5v when i do blow into the map sensor.

You have some wiring mixed up somewhere. Your MAP sensor shouldn't read anything higher than 5 volts I thought?

Yeah, +5V is about the maximum the Vref wire should supply... can you post pictures of how wired everything?

Not trying to be a jerk, but are you sure you are wired into the MAP sensor? Post pics please.

it might look hard to see what goes where but

the red goes to the green/yellow wire
the black goes to the black/green wire
the blue goes to the yellow/black wire

anyone? i need to get her running good real soon.

Take the electrical tape off and remove the case on the FCD and take a picture.

Originally posted by VelocitaPaola
Take the electrical tape off and remove the case on the FCD and take a picture.

he tried replacing the potentiometer already as well.

Maybe that's the problem? You would know more than I...

Originally posted by VelocitaPaola
Maybe that's the problem? You would know more than I...

It cant be the problem, he swapped one out with a new one again and it still doesnt change. I think I would rule out the FCD now.

I am thinking he is having an ECU issue, MAP issue or the OE wiring is fucked up or something.

I dont understand how he is getting 6 volts or whatever on the 5v ref wire...that doesnt make any sense.

there is no way its the fcd. The map sensor is brand new. Why the hell would the Vref wire have 6v? Is there anywhere that i could take my car for them to fix that?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
there is no way its the fcd. The map sensor is brand new. Why the hell would the Vref wire have 6v? Is there anywhere that i could take my car for them to fix that?

the only way you could read 6v on the 5v ref is if you have a bad ground.

bad ground where? Should i try resoldering the black wire from the fcd to the map sensor? Maybe its not a good connection? Its weird it seems like it should be getting less voltage not more.

I don't know about that... if the ground was loose, intermittent or high impedance you might see lower Vref levels. If it was somehow connected to a negative voltage source you would see higher Vref signals, but I don't know of any negative voltage sources in cars. Another option is a damaged output driver in the ECU, but that'd be rare.

how do i fix the damaged output driver or check to see if its damaged?

It's built into the ECU, so you'd have to get a new one if that's the problem (though I doubt it is). Disconnect everything, including the MAP sensor, and test the voltages on each wire with reference to chassis ground (meaning put the negative multimeter lead on either the battery or a clean metal part of the chassis). You should see +5V on the Vref line and 0V on the ground line if everything is as it should be.

If that checks out, you'll know the problem is with the FCD or the MAP sensor. If not, then you'll know the problem is likely in the stock wiring or the ECU.

ok this is what i have.

Green/black=ground
Yellow/black=power
Green/yellow=Vref which i recieved a 5v signal

my question now is i have blue black and red wires on my fcd. Which goes to where? I think its black to the power and red to the ground, right Mike?? Heres a diagram of the fcd

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
ok this is what i have. Green/black=ground Yellow/black=power Green/yellow=Vref which i recieved a 5v signal my question now is i have blue black and red wires on my fcd. Which goes to where? I think its black to the power and red to the ground, right Mike?? Heres a diagram of the fcd

No..your all wrong.

Factory wiring:

-Green/yellow = 5v power
-Yellow/Black = signal
-Black/Green = ground

FCD TO OE Wiring:

Red --> Grn/YL (5v power)
Blue --> YL/Blk (signal)
Blk --> Blk/Grn (ground)

im confused. I thought the signal wire was the vref and it was suppose to get 5v? If this isnt true then how come you tune the fcd off of the signal wire?

OMG. just hook it up like Mike said. This is the longest thread in history to have wrong wiring colors at the end of it!

Originally posted by djtrickee
OMG. just hook it up like Mike said. This is the longest thread in history to have wrong wiring colors at the end of it!

LOL. I even told you in that PM how to wire it correctly man.

ok but i tried it like that once and it didnt work! Obviously something isnt right.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
ok but i tried it like that once and it didnt work! Obviously something isnt right.

I honestly do not know what the heck to tell you dude.
If you have it wired correctly like I posted right above, then you should not have any issues.

I have sold damn near 50 of these through 2gnt and ebay and not once ever had any issues with them, EVER.

You either are not wiring it correctly or you have some fucked up wiring, a map sensor or a ECU.

Originally posted by djtrickee
OMG. just hook it up like Mike said. This is the longest thread in history to have wrong wiring colors at the end of it!

X2, it isn't rocket science to figure out these things. There are 3 wires to tap.

ive hooked it up multiple times with different potentiometers and everything exactly how mike said and it just wont go to 4.6v. No matter what i do, it is rocket science when your the only one in the world with a signal wire that gives off 6v.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
ive hooked it up multiple times with different potentiometers and everything exactly how mike said and it just wont go to 4.6v. No matter what i do, it is rocket science when your the only one in the world with a signal wire that gives off 6v.

you must have a bad ecu or factory wiring somewhere.

link to a cheap 95 mtx ecu?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
link to a cheap 95 mtx ecu?

search on ebay and on the forums here man. we cant hold your hand through everything ...

i know and i looked on ebay nothing fairly cheap. Can a place tell if the ecu is bad?

Haha Mike send me the wire diagram again and I will make a beautiful rendering with all the colors as clear as day! It wasn't that difficult!

I just found a 95 ECU in the marketplace this last week for a friend. Just have to keep looking.

is there some kind of other approach, like wiring in some kind of resistor or diode or whatever? Cant i buy something from radio shack and just wire it into the signal wire so it stays at 4.6v instead of the fcd where i have to adjust it? There has to be something like that, that would work. I know one of you electricians know.

You can wire a 4.6V zener diode reverse-bias to the signal line and ground, but it's really not the same. You want the adjustability and voltage buffering of a quality FCD. Don't settle for less... it doesn't work as well.

so i have to wire one of these into the signal and the ground?

I only threw that out there for the sake of argument. If you don't know anything about electronics, don't try it. You can't find this part from RadioShack. Forward-biased a diode has very little impedance, so you can easily destroy your MAP sensor or what's left of your ECU by installing it incorrectly. Fix the problem at hand then go from there: either check the stock wiring back to the ECU, replace your MAP sensor or temporarily swap in a new ECU to rule that out.

anybody want to send me a 95 mtx ecu just so i can see if thats the problem? then i'll send it back with some cash? =)

No.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
anybody want to send me a 95 mtx ecu just so i can see if thats the problem? then i'll send it back with some cash? =)

ha

well i cleaned the fuel injectors and put a new fuel filter in and it still aint working. So should i just go for the brand new $263 ecu from the mitsu. dealer? I will get the early year one that doesnt have the fuel cut feature and hopefully it will work.

For $263 you're getting a remanufactured ECU. There's nothing wrong with that, and I doubt they even sell brand new ones, but you should be aware that it's remanufactured. Also, there's a high possibility that since it was probably recently remanufactured (as in, within the past eleven years), it was flashed with a firmware version that does trigger fuel cut if the MAP sees too much pressure: I've seen it happen before.

Diagnose the problem insetad of throwing parts at the thing man.

Have you checked over the factory wiring and the MAP sensor?
If you did, how did you do it?

the map sensor is brand new. I checked the wiring and there is no bare wires and nothing is grounding itself out. I think the car is leaning out and the problem is definately fuel related. I cant get my hands on a fuel pressure tester and im not going to waste $45 on one to use it one time.

Just buy one, I did and have used it on more than 1 occassion now. You bought your fuel pump brand new also?

yeah i bought the fuel pump brand new but off of ebay. I dont know but that is a possibility too

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
yeah i bought the fuel pump brand new but off of ebay. I dont know but that is a possibility too

theres a problem right there. is it a cheap dick pump?

$100 pump not cheap

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
$100 pump not cheap

for what kind? is it a stock pump or what?

also, do you want those rotors and pads or what dude, you havent answered any PM's from me at all.

EDIT: Also, how did we even get to the subject of a bad fuel pump possibly? Yes that could very well make you lean out under some conditions, but a fuel pump has nothing to do with your MAP wiring or any issues like that....?

well it might not be fuel cut, it might be the stock injectors getting maxed out. I have the dsm 450cc injectors and the resistor pack so should i get a sfmu or a afpr? Im thinking the afpr because you dont have to deal with discs and all that and i can actually hook a gauge up to it. what do you think?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
what do you think?

I doubt you want to know what I think but...

I think you need to take the turbo off your car before you blow it up completely. It is obvious you have no idea, not an inkling, of what you are doing or what needs to be done. Take the turbo off, research on here for several weeks, the read some more till your eyes bleed. Then, and only maybe then, should you consider re-installing the turbo kit on your car.

Not to be rude, but if you can't understand the basic fundamentals of how a car works WITHOUT a turbo then doing a heavy mod like installing a turbo kit can only be a disaster.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
well it might not be fuel cut, it might be the stock injectors getting maxed out. I have the dsm 450cc injectors and the resistor pack so should i get a sfmu or a afpr? Im thinking the afpr because you dont have to deal with discs and all that and i can actually hook a gauge up to it. what do you think?

maybe it is or maybe it isnt. we dont know. but even if it isnt, you have discovered something else wrong with your car. you are getting 6v to your MAP sensor and cannot even adjust the signal voltage with a FCD. that to me is a starting point that needs to be solved in the first place...

good luck with what ever you are doing to it now.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
well it might not be fuel cut, it might be the stock injectors getting maxed out. I have the dsm 450cc injectors and the resistor pack so should i get a sfmu or a afpr? Im thinking the afpr because you dont have to deal with discs and all that and i can actually hook a gauge up to it. what do you think?

Stock injectors getting maxxed out?

How many pounds of boost?

If you're running 450's, get an sfmu.

If you think messing with disks in a unit smaller than a cd player is a pain in the ass, you need to get rid of your car.

All this stuff has been gone over so many times it's not even funny.

alright i have the 450cc injectors installed along with the SFMU. I plan to set my boost between 10-14psi depending on if my boost controller works or not. Currently i do not have any kind of fcd on my car. Keep in mind the car is a 95. What should i do if it still stutters?? I am going to test drive the car tomorrow with the higher boost level. I have the largest disc and the small hard spring in the SFMU.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
alright i have the 450cc injectors installed along with the SFMU. I plan to set my boost between 10-14psi depending on if my boost controller works or not. Currently i do not have any kind of fcd on my car. Keep in mind the car is a 95. What should i do if it still stutters?? I am going to test drive the car tomorrow with the higher boost level. I have the largest disc and the small hard spring in the SFMU.

For the love of God, just take your turbo off your engine.

You have a stock bottom end, and your going to go boost 10-14psi.

BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM

When you test drive it, if i stutters still, bring it back home and DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM CORRECTLY!!!

actually its rebuilt! Alright so if it stutters its either i need a fcd, new computer or new map sensor wiring?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
actually its rebuilt! Alright so if it stutters its either i need a fcd, new computer or new map sensor wiring?

I give up.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow actually its rebuilt! Alright so if it stutters its either i need a fcd, new computer or new map sensor wiring?

I give up.

Finally. I was waiting to see how long this thread would drag out. Can't help some threads ya know.

sorry i have a fucking frankenstein car. thanks guys

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow actually its rebuilt! Alright so if it stutters its either i need a fcd, new computer or new map sensor wiring?

I give up.

Finally. I was waiting to see how long this thread would drag out. Can't help some threads ya know.

Its pretty much a lost cause.

it still stutters. Im going to start with buying a symtech unit and work from there.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
it still stutters. Im going to start with buying a symtech unit and work from there.

So, once again, your playing a guessing game and wasting more money instead of diagnosing the problem correctly.

:thumbsup

I want to diagnose the problem that's what I need help with, Mike. Enough with the crap, lets get this bitch running good. We are starting fresh right now. What should i check for first?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
I want to diagnose the problem that's what I need help with, Mike. Enough with the crap, lets get this bitch running good. We are starting fresh right now. What should i check for first?

You haven't even bothered to solve the 1st problem that started this 800 gabillion thread in the 1st place. Why not try and diagnose and correct the already existing problems before throwing more money at SFMU's, Symtechs, etc. Jeebus. The information can only be force fed to you so many times without you taking it that everyone just calls it quits...

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow it still stutters. Im going to start with buying a symtech unit and work from there.

So, once again, your playing a guessing game and wasting more money instead of diagnosing the problem correctly. :thumbsup

What are you doing? I thought you closed this "Cold Case" file... haha

Im saying, right now ive got nothing to lose so im going to try everything. Where do you suggest that i start off so i can properly diagnose this problem and get it solved?

Dude,

I dont even plan on turboing my car anytime soon.

And I know enough about FCDs from this thread now that I could do it blindfolded.

Ill give you a (second) first step:

Since you cant (wont)check it yourself, just take any money your gonna aimlessly throw out the window and take the car to SATAN, let them figure out why the hell you get 6V.

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
Im saying, right now ive got nothing to lose so im going to try everything. Where do you suggest that i start off so i can properly diagnose this problem and get it solved?

Last reply.

Try reading this ENTIRE freaking post you made.

We have given you MANY helpfull hints here and its starting point.
You obviously missed something, installed something wrong, or just fried something else, who knows.

Seems as if you really havent installed anything correctly that you have done thus far. We gave you exact wire colors and what not on how to wire the FCD correctly, and you didnt even do that correctly. My guess is that you also dont have your SFMU hooked up right at all either, its weird how your fuel pressure would only raise randomly, and sometimes not in 1st gear? I guess that SFMU just doesnt like first gear huh?

You are taking the hard way out man, you have spent worthless money on trying to 'guess' what the problem is, and if you dont actually start diagnosing something correct, take it to a known shop, have them take all the garbage off that you have put on, and simply run your engine stock before something seriously gets damaged, because I must tell you, by the way of reading things here throughout this post and the others you have made, your on your way to needing a new engine shortly.

I personally do not think you have any idea what and the heck you are doing, hense why you are just guessing at things and throwing non needed parts on this hog.

Either take the spoon out of your ass and dig down in and start diagnosing things right, take it somewhere and have them remove everything and sell it to someone to who knows what they are doing or just call it quits, because I just have with any more advice.

The information is here for you as there was support from us others who have been the game here for a few years, but seriously, people have thrown everything at you at what to look for, and you just chose not to do so. We dont like reading all your posts, thinking about what can be wrong, taking the time to help you and then you pretty much just blow us off, and say, eh, a 3/8 return line will fix my problem, no, your wrong and you have been wrong for about a months time now buddy.

So, with that being said, I am out. Good Luck with everything you do, and I hope nothing gets shattered in that poor poor engine.

Good Day.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow Im saying, right now ive got nothing to lose so im going to try everything. Where do you suggest that i start off so i can properly diagnose this problem and get it solved?

Last reply. Try reading this ENTIRE freaking post you made. We have given you MANY helpfull hints here and its starting point. You obviously missed something, installed something wrong, or just fried something else, who knows. Seems as if you really havent installed anything correctly that you have done thus far. We gave you exact wire colors and what not on how to wire the FCD correctly, and you didnt even do that correctly. My guess is that you also dont have your SFMU hooked up right at all either, its weird how your fuel pressure would only raise randomly, and sometimes not in 1st gear? I guess that SFMU just doesnt like first gear huh? You are taking the hard way out man, you have spent worthless money on trying to 'guess' what the problem is, and if you dont actually start diagnosing something correct, take it to a known shop, have them take all the garbage off that you have put on, and simply run your engine stock before something seriously gets damaged, because I must tell you, by the way of reading things here throughout this post and the others you have made, your on your way to needing a new engine shortly. I personally do not think you have any idea what and the heck you are doing, hense why you are just guessing at things and throwing non needed parts on this hog. Either take the spoon out of your ass and dig down in and start diagnosing things right, take it somewhere and have them remove everything and sell it to someone to who knows what they are doing or just call it quits, because I just have with any more advice. The information is here for you as there was support from us others who have been the game here for a few years, but seriously, people have thrown everything at you at what to look for, and you just chose not to do so. We dont like reading all your posts, thinking about what can be wrong, taking the time to help you and then you pretty much just blow us off, and say, eh, a 3/8 return line will fix my problem, no, your wrong and you have been wrong for about a months time now buddy. So, with that being said, I am out. Good Luck with everything you do, and I hope nothing gets shattered in that poor poor engine. Good Day.

Best post by "eclipsehingetuner" EVAR!

Sooth.

whatever. Its funny that if im told oh its your map sensor i buy a new one and its not it, just shit like that. Its just whatever i guess, everything is put on right,but the guy before me fucked it up. im done trying to get help anymore.

LOL.

Great job :thumbsup

Close thread please.

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05
Close thread please.

+1

Ive read this thread and kept my mouth shut while gleaning info off of everyone. I could rebuilt my fuel system blindfolded with all the info here, but the OP isn't listening or taking time to actually follow any of the advice.

SHUT IT DOWN! /chef ramsey

its funny cause i have followed all of the advice and only half the shit works. you guys say its one thing and its not and you say something else and its not. Thats not my fault. I checked everything you told me and ive dont everything youve told me. Only thing it could possibly be is the computer?

Originally posted by 95eclipseSlow
its funny cause i have followed all of the advice and only half the shit works. you guys say its one thing and its not and you say something else and its not. Thats not my fault. I checked everything you told me and ive dont everything youve told me. Only thing it could possibly be is the computer?

Fail.

Lol!

This is getting better and better!

Ultimate fail:

OH,,,,! so this tread is why everyone on the board does not jump in to offer up suggestion anymore!:+