I know 90ft/lbs is what you torque the ARP studs down to but, do you torque the stud itself first with allen socket or all at once with nut.

no! do not torque the stud itself
you put the stud in finger tight then the torque spec is for the nut only.
after the engine has been run for a bit i recheck the torque on the head studs, but thats optional

I didn't think so but the stud has a hex in the end of it. It made me rethink my decision. So what is the hex for? Do any of you loctite the studs like ARP says as an option?

the hex is there for removal of the stud if you ever need to have the block worked on.

and i used Loc-Tite instead of the ARP assembly lube (pick one or the other but not both together) lol just make sure its Thread locker and not the other kind of permentent stuff

Originally posted by foggy45
the hex is there for removal of the stud if you ever need to have the block worked on. and i used Loc-Tite instead of the ARP assembly lube (pick one or the other but not both together) lol just make sure its Thread locker and not the other kind of permentent stuff

Agreed!

go for the blue stuff from Loc-Tite or you'll never get them out if you have to bebuild.

Quick question related to the ARP head studs.

I am thinking of replacing my headgasket, I have the ARP head studs with about 10K mi on them. Should I replace the stucds or are they good for a second use?

Thanks
Tom

Should be good, I reused mine 4 times so far with no probblems,
I torque mine to 90lbs every time....

Thanks man! Thats all I need to know.