Well I was wondering if an oil cooler would be beneficial and what kind of setup does it need? Also is it worth it to do this?

Do you want hot, foamy oil from your turbo going into your oil pan and being pumped through your block?

If not, oil cooler. I've seen some that pump both coolant and oil through the same unit. The air and coolant cools the oil and the air cools the oil. 4 ports. 2 separate veins.

well what should the setup be? Sandwichplate before filter or what don't really know much about oilcoolers!

ok then. .
first off im gonna reach through the screen and slap whoever puts an oil cooler between their turbo and their pan.
its stupid! there is NO oil pressure in the oil that drains from the turbo therefore how does one get flow through your average 8-core oil cooler? very bad idea.
secondary to that, after it gets "cooled" it then drains back into the HOT oil pan! and your "cooling" has just been negated.

/end rant

now. . how does one do it right?
first we have to figure out if you actually need one, before you go and drop a couple off bills on a system. (trust me, a good system can easily climb to $500)
so make sure you already have an oil temp gauge and a coolant gauge.

Oil- have you switched to synthetic yet? synthetics can hold up to an average of 40*F higher then dino stuff. (270 vs 230)
both oils have the same minimum operating temp of 150*
so we need to make sure that you arent OVER cooling your oil, to solve this your gonna need a thermostated oil bypass. these things make sure the oil reaches operating temp before they open and send the oil to the external cooler. good ones, like C&R, B&M and Perma-cool, are set to 180* and have a 90/10 thermostat. (when closed 90% of the oil bypasses the cooler and goes to the engine while the other 10% goes through the cooler to prevent system shock when the thermostat does open)

now a good system can also drop coolant temps by 15* as well, just by cooling the oil. adding a high performance aluminium radiator can further improve these results.

The System- the best desing for our cars is a :
Spin on oil filter bypass that goes to a 4 I/O thremostat block, from that you have the two lines that go to the external cooler, and the last one will go to a remote oil filter and then return to the block.
i dont recomend the bypass blocks that you can still put a filter on, as this makes the filter lower then the pan. if you use one then you need a smaller filter to keep from ripping it off, and since you want the best possible filtration id use a larger filter on a remote.

Cooler- if your turbo is really making your system hot then you may need a large cooler (12-16 row 11" square) most of the average 6-8 row coolers should be fine for most systems, they are usually 8" square.
best place to mount this is in the passenger side front bumper. on 2GB's you can even use the air guides from the GST SMIC to route the air right to the cooler.

Conections- it is recomended that you use AN fittings on this install. so make friends with your local Aeroquip rep or grab your favorite catalog.
as you know, the oil drain from the turbo should be -10an (min 1/2" id). oil coolant lines are recomended to be between -8an and -10an depending on coolent requirements.
you dont want to go to big or the flow will stagnate and pressures may drop.


Hint*- you can find some very high-end used nascar stuff om ebay, just do the research first to make sure its what you want.

Recomended brands:
C&R
B&M
Perma-cool
Setrab
Trust/Greddy
HKS

Aeroquip
Russell

I can't remember where i saw it but they had a project focus/240sx running a disco potato. It sat so low that they were worried about oil backing up into the turbo and the block itself not getting oiled as well as it would n/a. They had a sump pulling oil to a cooler and a pump after the cooler pulling the oil out to the pan. No foamy oil. No blown turbo.

So i forgot a step. Sue me.