First of all I wish to thank you all for great info on this site, I am a long time lurker and appreciate you guys!

Now, I am piecing my turbo kit together and almost have everything for install. I am in need of the fitting that goes to the oil press. sensor location on the back of the block to T to the oem sensor and my feed line. I have -4an SS feed line. I do not have a oil press. gauge ATM. Thanks!!

Redbarren

local hardware store, lowes/homo depot etc. Bring the OPSU with you and the -4an line and you should be good to piece it together right there in the store.

http://www.2gnt.com/?d=Turbo_Oil_Lines_Diagram

I figured I would have to go to HD racing, lol. But i was looking around on cimotorsports at their feed line setup and it looks like they have a T fitting that is just 1 unit: http://www.cimotorsports.net/motor-sport-products/ci-oil-feed-line-kit-95-99-eclipsetalon-420a.html

would anybody happen to know where to get this fitting?

autozone sells them.

If you don't want any leaks, don't get brass fittings. I've gone through numerous ones and they all leaked no matter what I did. I finally got me some nice Earls fittings from summit and no leaks whatsoever. Do it right the first time or you will end up doing it again.

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05
If you don't want any leaks, don't get brass fittings. I've gone through numerous ones and they all leaked no matter what I did. I finally got me some nice Earls fittings from summit and no leaks whatsoever. Do it right the first time or you will end up doing it again.

Can you give me the specs of the fittings you have?

I'm at the same exact stage man. All my parts should be here by the end of the week and now I'm just getting the misc stuff like fittings and fuel line.

I will need a 3-way T though to support my stock oil pressure sending unit, as well as the one for my oil pressure gauge, and of course the turbo oil supply line. Does anyone have a picture of their oil fittings/line off the back of the block? Or any exact sizes needed to screw into the block and accept the stock opsu?

lol maybe I should look at the links before I post. Those diagrams are great! Is there one for the fuel system too? Call me an idiot but as of right now I don't know which side of the fuel rail is the supply side and the return side. I haven't looked too hard yet though...

Originally posted by chris712vt
lol maybe I should look at the links before I post. Those diagrams are great! Is there one for the fuel system too? Call me an idiot but as of right now I don't know which side of the fuel rail is the supply side and the return side. I haven't looked too hard yet though...

Well if you have a 95 (and some 96's I think) the supply and return are on the same side. If you have a 97+ then there will only be a supply. In either case when looking at the engine from the front it's the rubber line going to the right side of the rail... Just remember if it is 97+ and you have no return line you will need to add one.

Originally posted by TheRedBarren

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05 If you don't want any leaks, don't get brass fittings. I've gone through numerous ones and they all leaked no matter what I did. I finally got me some nice Earls fittings from summit and no leaks whatsoever. Do it right the first time or you will end up doing it again.

Can you give me the specs of the fittings you have?

i converted as many of my fittings to AN and SS lines as i could. pricy but it makes working on things a lot easier
i use Aeroquip stuff for everything so the part numbers wont cross with Earls or Russell

out of the block i use a 3/8 NPT > -4AN (FCM2519)
then for a "T" i use a "Female on the run tee" -4AN (FCM2254) it has 1 female and 2 male -4AN ports
the bottom of the tee goes to the turbo and the other run takes a short jog to a custom Aluminium distrubution block for all my oil pressure and temp sensor conectors (think similar to a Vac distrubution block)
so if anything blows, fails, or leaks i can disconect the line and cap it right at the block without havign to remove those stupid NPT fittings from under a cramped hot engine, and i dont have to worry about messing up the turbo supply line
sorry i dont have any pics its too fricking cold out here now to climb under there

Thanks for all the replys guys. I am just going to follow this diagram here: http://www.2gnt.com/?d=Turbo_Oil_Lines_Diagram

I will use a 3/8 T aluminum fitting from the block and just get a reducer for the feed line. Then the OEM sensor should just screw in the top of the 'T' fitting. Is ANPlumbing.com a good place to buy?

My oil lines writeup, not sure if you have to be a member or not to see the page:

http://www.team-2g.com/mitsubishi-eclipse/diy-how-tech-articles/22018-420a-turbo-oil-lines-writeup.html

Mike, very helpful write-up. But what did you do with the stock oil pressure sending unit? And wouldn't that make the oil light come on in the gauge bezel? (I guess you could remove the bulb for that particular light)

Originally posted by chris712vt
Mike, very helpful write-up. But what did you do with the stock oil pressure sending unit? And wouldn't that make the oil light come on in the gauge bezel? (I guess you could remove the bulb for that particular light)

I also had a question about that, if you left it unplugged, wouldn't it cause your instrument cluster light to come on? The only way to avoid that would be to put the sensor to use, but then how would you use a aftermarket gauge?

Originally posted by chris712vt
Mike, very helpful write-up. But what did you do with the stock oil pressure sending unit? And wouldn't that make the oil light come on in the gauge bezel? (I guess you could remove the bulb for that particular light)

I didn't use the stock oil pressure switch because I hooked up an oil pressure gauge and that is A LOT better way to keep tabs on your oil pressure than the dumb stock switch. If you unplug the switch from the harness, it will not light up the stock dummy light. If you left the switch plugged in then yes, it would have the dummy light illuminated all the time. It's less to mess with so I left it out.

I agree 100% on the aftermarket oil pressure gauge being better, that's why I got one. I was just trying to figure out what to do with the stock oil pressure sender. Just don't use it, and leave the wires unplugged hanging there or zip tied to something?

Originally posted by chris712vt
Just don't use it, and leave the wires unplugged hanging there or zip tied to something?

Yep.

My dummy light would start flickering on and off about a month after unplugging it so I would pull the bulb out of the dash also. Happened on both my eclipse and talon so I don't know why it did it or what caused that.