I understand that the SOHC NEON motor are able to be fit into our cars. This swap intrigues me a little more for three reasons. 1) I am a junkyard racer through and through and have no aspirations about going over 8 PSI. That being said I love the availability of the neon block. 2) I like the fact that the SOHC NEON motor has a slightly lower compression making it a little more turbo friendly. 3) I can rebuild this block while still driving my car. I understand I must swap my head over but I can also get a spare head I have and port that out to help with the performance since it is accessible.

Now my only concern what changes must to made to make this block accomodate my car. I have used the search but have only come up with bits and pieces I figure I try to make a post that collectively pulls all the information together.

P.S. - I understand that this will only be a small gain in the compression compartment and thats it but I feel safer this way and like in my three points number 1 being most dominate I feel this is the way I would like to go. Seeing as how this will become a learning experience for me to familiarize myself further with the 420a motor.

Arent those motors backwards setup compared to ours?

No common misconception, the blocks should be the same with slight modifications. The heads are indeed reversed which is why you must swap the 2GNT head. But in order to use the SOHC NEON motor small adjustments must be made I am just trying to collectivley figure out all the changes needed. For it to bolt up. Again any Guru's not only is you information and .02 wanted but it is also needed.

The SOHC Neon block is exactly the same unless it is a 95, then it has a funky pcv system integrated into the block. The only difference is in the pistons and the head. In fact SOHC pistons will swap freely into our engines were you inclined to do so. Now if you are talking about using the single cam head, that will not work for more reasons than i care to list.

read this:

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=106390&mode=full


search for "neon block" there's all kinds of stuff hiding around here

Originally posted by quicksilver99
read this: http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=106390&mode=full

Crap! And I wanted to re-type all that info again ;)

I read that post ... Quite good Cap. But I also heard that the oil pick-ups must be swapt, as well as the oil pains and such. Am I wrong or are there more little things that must be done. That is why I am opening this post. Just in case there are little things that may need to be done.

Originally posted by TheGhost
I read that post ... Quite good Cap. But I also heard that the oil pick-ups must be swapt, as well as the oil pains and such. Am I wrong or are there more little things that must be done. That is why I am opening this post. Just in case there are little things that may need to be done.

Aha, I see. Generally when we talk about blocks we mean just the big heavy thing with the internals. Not necessarilly the "bolt ons".

Yes you will have to swap your pan and pick up. You will also need to switch the dipstick. In addition, sensors; hmm, you might need to change out the crank sensor. Depending on years. Our 95 and 96 have a different electrical connector than the 97 and up.

I do in fact have to happen a 96 rs. After reading you post a question came to mind. If I get a block from the same year will sensors needed to be changed out or no. Am I looking for a 96 block to make swapping the "bolt ons" as you put as easy as possible.

Originally posted by TheGhost
I do in fact have to happen a 96 rs. After reading you post a question came to mind. If I get a block from the same year will sensors needed to be changed out or no. Am I looking for a 96 block to make swapping the "bolt ons" as you put as easy as possible.

96 Mitsu to 96 Mitsu will be no problem. 96 Neon to 96 Mitsu, I don't know. But is there something wrong with your old sensors? No problem to just swap them out. Quick and easy and they will swap 95-99 engine, no problem. The bolt-on is the same.

When I swap out an engine I generally use the old sensors because they are "known good". Very easy to swap. No reason to put more mud in the mix if you don't know the condition of the "new" ones.

So other than the mentioned oil pick-up and oil pan. Anything else that needs to be changed or swapped. I wonder would I use the neon clutch or the eclipse clutch and if I wanted to re-ring the pistons where could I buy a quality re-ring kit. Something that would supply main bearings, rod bearings, and so forth. I was thinking of the kit from howell but did not know if the one listed for the neon would fit the SOHC as well. I'll call on wendsday to find out if there open. But if anyone knows if the piston size are the same please let me know. Also if I bore the piston cylinder .02 over will the bump compression or drop it.

P.S. - Cap I appreciate your input you have become a guidling light for us new guys and amatuer tuners.

For engine parts:

www.partsdinosaur.com

www.partstrain.com

I did this swap a little while back and have evrything installed,it was with the 96 fully rotating short block(not bare block).for 96-99 sohc or dohc Youll need to swap out the head and replace with ours/the pan/the oil pick up tube/the dipstick tube and dipstick(it may just pop out but i had to drill it out so start this project first before you put the pan back on just in case)the knock sensor is in the front of the block just remove and put your original one in the back of the motor,Every accessory will bolt directly up to there block and i would get a block that was original equiped with an automatic trans do to the chances that it didnt see as much overreving abuse if your getting a fully rotating short block...its not a hard swap and for short blocks that cost around 75 bucks you cant go wrong if your a budget booster..good luck

WOW ... Thanks for the Information. I looked into the two websites before I was wondering if there are any kits available for 96 and up SOHC motors. The one at parts dinosaur was only for the 95' model year. But if it comes to that I will leave it be and just not replace the bearings.

Anyone got any info ...

Reviving a dead post. I made up a short block with the neon pistons in my block. Just wondering where do you guys believe my compression ratio to be and could I run it to ten pounds of boost instead of just 8 even 9 would be better also should I put the turbo on now and break in the block or should I break in the block then after bolt on the turbo. Any info would be great. And just food for though I modified the factory exhaust manifold to accept a saab turbo. Haah .... Junkyard performance.

I think this is where you're at; DOHC head and SOHC pistons will net you 9.2:1 comp. A relatively reliable member of neons.org claims to be running 15lbs with that set-up. But tuning is (as always) key here. Remember you're not running after market forged pistons. I would think that you would be safe at 9lbs with a PROPER tune.

Oh yeah, I always liked putting on a new system completely but running it at very low conservative number (just in case something else is goofed up - or I missed something, the carnage may not be that bad). If it is an established system, I have no problem with running it the way it was, with the brand new rebuild (provided again that it is a proper set-up with a proper tune)