Well unfortunately, after all this time and struggeling, the secret project has been sold approx 5 weeks ago to a local with a Talon. The secret pretty much was a badass 2.4L motor that I was building. Unfortunately, since have a 3 month year old son, the money just wasnt there to finish it, and I still had alot to do. The kid comes first now over the toy. BUT, I have made some new reinforcements to my 2.0L and I am still going for the 400whp marker and with some tuning, I am going to get as much as I can. Here is what was added since last years set.

Tubular manifold, 40mm Tial wastegate, New Precision SC61 Turbo which is the same as a GT35, MSnS, 720cc injectors, new 2.75" intercooler piping, new FMIC, Heavily ported and polished head, standard SS valves, Crower 2 cams, Crower springs, Crower retainers, new JE rings, new Clevitte main and rod bearings, Aeromotive FPR, SPEC stage 5 clutch, DSS Stage 5 axles, Prothane engine mounts, Prothane susp busings and off the top of my head, I think thats it. I made the engine bay look cleaner now too with a new paint job, a custom valve cover and venom intake manifold, Fluidyne radiator, 2 pusher fans mounted in the front.

I would also like to add that in about 2 weeks, Mark Peachy aka quicksilver and myself will be adding to the WIKI with how we made my manifold. I pretty much designed it and tacked it up and Mark threw down some KILLER ASS Tig welding skills on this bitch. It is flawless, hands down and a HUGE thanks to Mark. The manifold did flex a little bit during shipping to Mark and the turbo sits about 3-5mm from the radiator, lol. It should be okay though since the engine mounts are pretty damn stiff now.

All I have to finish now is to mock up a downpipe and dump tube for the wastegate, run my oil line for the turbo, oil drain to pan, turbo to i/c piping and then its start up time. I am also working on a hard pipe in replacement for the radiator hose...

I am sure I will need some help with getting it going with the MSnS since I am a newbie with it, so if someone wants to shoot me your phone # through a PM, that would be awesome.

So anyway, here are a few pics of some unfinished business. Enjoy.

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Very clean engine bay, i like your setup. I messed up my SC61, so i had to get rid of it. And the S covers for the SC61 are being redesigned, so i bought a t3/t4 60-1, i will be installing it friday. After seeing you car, i wish i still had my SC6169. Good luck and keep up the bad ass work.

Very nice looking Mike, few questions about your setup:

1. What do you have going on with the PCV valve? Is it just re-routed to a vacuum port on the back of the intake manifold or running something special? Can't really tell from the pics.

2. How come you didn't route the waste gate flange the other way so you could/can re-route back into the exhaust and not dump right on the oil housing of the turbo?

3. How's the fitment of that exhaust mani? It clear the hood alright and everything?

Shame about the 2.4L engine, but family comes before hobby always.

Your setup looks amazing in there! Good luck with everything. And if you don't mind me asking, how does the Precision turbo compare to Garrett price wise?

OMG... Exelent...

Where did you get the Engine side mounts???
Are they Energy Suspention Inserts of the Whole Mount???

Where can I get them? Part# if you have it. or just point me in the right direction...

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05
Very nice looking Mike, few questions about your setup: 2. How come you didn't route the waste gate flange the other way so you could/can re-route back into the exhaust and not dump right on the oil housing of the turbo?

Ditto.

Really curious about what's going on with your wastegate flange!

The dump tube is going to be routed back into the downpipe. I have plenty of clearence to do this no problem.

I still have a PCV valve on there, its just routed to the back of the manifold.

Thanks for the comments.

mmmmm, that looks delicious :thumbsup

Originally posted by cs82685
mmmmm, that looks delicious :thumbsup

Tell me about it :)

The manifold looks pretty slick. Backpurged? Weight? I'd still keep an eye on that thing. Looks beefy.

If you've got the PT SC61 why call it a GT35 on the valve cover? :wary While it might be "practically" the same, is it truly a Garrrett Ballistics Concepts GT cartridge in the CHRA? I was under the impression that the GT cartridge was what made the GT-series turbos. One wouldn't call a T-28 a "Disco Potato," after all...

Looks clean. Glad to see you didn't make it wider. }(

I like the detail on the valve cover. Manifold is nice, cheater cut kinda hurts the craftsmanship but its nice.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
I like the detail on the valve cover.

Thanks Terry.

Brian, the reason it actually says gt35 on the valve cover is because if you remember a couple of months ago last spring i bought a garrett gt35 and then sold it because it was too large for me. i actually had the decals made for the cover back then, and i wasnt paying for more to be made....so, in theory since the sc61 is the same as a gt35, thats why it went on there.

I believe that Mark did backpurge the manifold too, he did an awesome job and I recommend him to everyone if you need some custom welding done. He had it done in 3 days for me too.

Weight for the manifold, I am not sure Brian. Its kind of heavy to be honest. Its all 304ss sch10 1.5" piping and fittings, and 3/8 flanges.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
The dump tube is going to be routed back into the downpipe. I have plenty of clearence to do this no problem. I still have a PCV valve on there, its just routed to the back of the manifold. Thanks for the comments.

I can't wait to see this done. I can kinda see how that can be done but i'm interested in what you'll come up with. For the love of god, keep us posted. VERY NICE SETUP.

Excuse my ignorance but what is that billet box with the lines comming out of it next to your brake fluid resivoir?

Originally posted by 2GeclipseRS

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST The dump tube is going to be routed back into the downpipe. I have plenty of clearence to do this no problem. I still have a PCV valve on there, its just routed to the back of the manifold. Thanks for the comments.

I can't wait to see this done. I can kinda see how that can be done but i'm interested in what you'll come up with. For the love of god, keep us posted. VERY NICE SETUP. Excuse my ignorance but what is that billet box with the lines comming out of it next to your brake fluid resivoir?

I am hoping to have a downpipe whipped up and welded by saturday night.

The box is a vacuum box. It uses one 3/8 hose from the intake manifold and pulls vacuum from each inlet off of the vacuum box.

Sweet. I figured it was a vaccum box of some sort. I've just never seen anything like it til now. Everyone's custom built setups on here are just amazing. I really like the approach some of you guys (and girls) take to getting stuff done. It gives me alot of inspiration (and hope) for the rs.

Do you have the bolts holding the turbo on the manifold tapped right into the flange?

I back purged the entire manifold, flanges and all. I used 309 filler rod on the flanges because they where made of mild steel and the rest was done with T-304. Shipping weight on the mani was 42 lbs but I packed the thing in a heavy 3/4 inch wooden crate to prevent any dammage and I figure it don't weigh any more than 25 lbs, not much compared to some of the GT40 series mani's you see on the evo's. And I have to say, that looks great! I'll have that disk on the way to you soon, I was in an accident last weekend and didnt get to spend to much time on it.

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05
Do you have the bolts holding the turbo on the manifold tapped right into the flange?

Yes the flange I bought were tapped with standard coarse thread 3/8. I am going to slap a nut over the top of the bolts though, just for extra comfort :)

If I were you I'd build some sort of tripod-like support system from the front of the block to a little platform for the turbo to sit on so that the weight of it doesn't wear out the manifold faster. If you wanted to get fancy you could get a small precision spring from mcmaster too and rig it up so its adjustable in the amount of support it provides. However you do not want to brace the manifold to itself in any way, or make a support that allows for no movement of the expanding stainless and binds it all up by holding the turbo too rigidly.

Also, instead of going with some insulation over the top rad hose i'd go with something like this (along with the insulation):

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D390124&N=700+115&autoview=sku

The main hose part is all stainless, not rubber with braids. Be-Cool also makes something like it.

How close did that compressor end up to the starter? (1 inch, 2 inches, etc.) And how many inches is the first straight section coming out of the port on the 1st and 4th runners?

Nice job overall - although i'd have to agree with the comment above, not a big fan of the cheater cuts on the 2nd and 3rd runners. But it'll work.

Me likey!!! I hope mine ends up looking like that when im done!
i was thinking about getting everything inside the engine bay black if i can, i know it is not a smart idea, but still i think its clean, a white car with black interior!!!

you are running 2.75 IC piping right? with what intercoooler? thats where im stuck, i dont know which intercooler to buy! im thinking hahn but it is kinda expensive! but i dont mind it!

Originally posted by pghsebring
If I were you I'd build some sort of tripod-like support system from the front of the block to a little platform for the turbo to sit on so that the weight of it doesn't wear out the manifold faster. If you wanted to get fancy you could get a small precision spring from mcmaster too and rig it up so its adjustable in the amount of support it provides. However you do not want to brace the manifold to itself in any way, or make a support that allows for no movement of the expanding stainless and binds it all up by holding the turbo too rigidly. Also, instead of going with some insulation over the top rad hose i'd go with something like this (along with the insulation): http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D390124&N=700+115&autoview=sku The main hose part is all stainless, not rubber with braids. Be-Cool also makes something like it. How close did that compressor end up to the starter? (1 inch, 2 inches, etc.) And how many inches is the first straight section coming out of the port on the 1st and 4th runners? Nice job overall - although i'd have to agree with the comment above, not a big fan of the cheater cuts on the 2nd and 3rd runners. But it'll work.

The manifold is already braced properly.

The radiator hose, I a making a radiator pipe so I dont have to worry about the hose getting hott and exploding or melting.

I have about 3/4" clearence around the starter.

The cheater cuts, they are fine. I made 3 different styles of this manifold, and those were the one design that came out okay with fitting up the turbo.

badass!!!!

i helped build a sc61 aem ems powered srt that's local..

built motor, wild cams, etc..

at 22psi, it was hitting 500whp on the dyno w/out even touching the cam gears.....

good luck w/it..

nice to see that vacuum box worked well for ya! very nice set up mike!

Originally posted by lild14
nice to see that vacuum box worked well for ya! very nice set up mike!

Yup, it did work out good, haha.

Thanks.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
The manifold is already braced properly.

I don't want to see you waste a lot of your time or effort on your manifold just to have it crack.

http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=244370

The two pics that show up as red X's in dmarino's post 10 down is a manifold braced exactly like yours - welding a piece of metal from the exhaust flange to the collector/turbo flange area. If you read the whole post it'll explain the problems with that idea.

Originally posted by pghsebring

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST The manifold is already braced properly.

I don't want to see you waste a lot of your time or effort on your manifold just to have it crack. http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=244370 The two pics that show up as red X's in dmarino's post 10 down is a manifold braced exactly like yours - welding a piece of metal from the exhaust flange to the collector/turbo flange area. If you read the whole post it'll explain the problems with that idea.

There is more than the one brace buddy. Dont worry, it will be fine.

Originally posted by pghsebring

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST The manifold is already braced properly.

I don't want to see you waste a lot of your time or effort on your manifold just to have it crack. http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=244370 The two pics that show up as red X's in dmarino's post 10 down is a manifold braced exactly like yours - welding a piece of metal from the exhaust flange to the collector/turbo flange area. If you read the whole post it'll explain the problems with that idea.

The manifold wont crack...
There's four individual braces to the underside of each runner and I stress relieved the thing before I glass-bead blasted it. The entire works was heated in a furnace to roughly 2300 degrees fahrenheit and slowly cooled to soft aneal it, and being T-304 stainless there will be plenty of elasticity(40%) allowing it to flex. The welds where done hot and fast, about 130 amps with 1/16" filler rod, so there was very little carbon and almost no carbide precipitation. Infact most of them where damn near gold and blue when finished. I can understand everyones concern, but I have built 26 turbo manifolds prior to this. Some out of mild steel, some out of type-321 stainless, some T-304, and one out of titanium. None have cracked yet, in fact the local guys bring me their purchased one's for repairs. And might I add I used to design and build pressure plenum's and heat risers so I can assure you guys that every measure was taken to prevent any problems a few heat cycles could cause. And if any problems do arrise me and Mike have already worked this out.

Originally posted by quicksilver99

Originally posted by pghsebring

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST The manifold is already braced properly.

I don't want to see you waste a lot of your time or effort on your manifold just to have it crack. http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=244370 The two pics that show up as red X's in dmarino's post 10 down is a manifold braced exactly like yours - welding a piece of metal from the exhaust flange to the collector/turbo flange area. If you read the whole post it'll explain the problems with that idea.

The manifold wont crack... There's four individual braces to the underside of each runner and I stress relieved the thing before I glass-bead blasted it. The entire works was heated in a furnace to roughly 2300 degrees fahrenheit and slowly cooled to soft aneal it, and being T-304 stainless there will be plenty of elasticity(40%) allowing it to flex. The welds where done hot and fast, about 130 amps with 1/16" filler rod, so there was very little carbon and almost no carbide precipitation. Infact most of them where damn near gold and blue when finished. I can understand everyones concern, but I have built 26 turbo manifolds prior to this. Some out of mild steel, some out of type-321 stainless, some T-304, and one out of titanium. None have cracked yet, in fact the local guys bring me their purchased one's for repairs. And might I add I used to design and build pressure plenum's and heat risers so I can assure you guys that every measure was taken to prevent any problems a few heat cycles could cause. And if any problems do arrise me and Mike have already worked this out.

And thats the bottom line, cuz Mark said so!

roffle waffles...

I love reading detailed technical explanations of shiznit :thumbsup

Originally posted by XMasta19
roffle waffles... I love reading detailed technical explanations of shiznit :thumbsup

Waffles sound good about now!

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
Waffles sound good about now!

Not trying to start a pissing match with your "crew" - just trying to point out the "tech" used by guys who have run 10's and faster with similar equipment made from the same metals. But if your new "tech" is better than than their emperical research, i'm not trying to stop you. You guys have it all figured out I see, so good luck.

Originally posted by quicksilver99
being T-304 stainless there will be plenty of elasticity(40%) allowing it to flex...

hmm...

Originally posted by pghsebring

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST Waffles sound good about now!

Not trying to start a pissing match with your "crew" - just trying to point out the "tech" used by guys who have run 10's and faster with similar equipment made from the same metals. But if your new "tech" is better than than their emperical research, i'm not trying to stop you. You guys have it all figured out I see, so good luck.

Originally posted by quicksilver99 being T-304 stainless there will be plenty of elasticity(40%) allowing it to flex...

hmm...

I know T-304 stainless doesn't take heat as well as T-321 stainless, and now where near as well as mild steel or cast iron. But for what this manifold is gonna see as far as "use and abuse" I'm more than positive that it's gonna last for quite a while. Yes there could have been fancy Swaged slip-jounts and flex bellows to make a bullet proof design, and there are more expensive materials available that take to heat alot better. But before this turns into some kind of war about cracking... I just want everybody to remember that Mike was just showin how his latest project has come. I only had a small part in it all but I think the manifold is just as much of a show piece as a performance part. It's all custom work wich is always somewhat of an experiment. And this is all his creation wich I think is very impressive.

Originally posted by quicksilver99
I know T-304 stainless doesn't take heat as well as T-321 stainless, and now where near as well as mild steel or cast iron. But for what this manifold is gonna see as far as "use and abuse" I'm more than positive that it's gonna last for quite a while. Yes there could have been fancy Swaged slip-jounts and flex bellows to make a bullet proof design, and there are more expensive materials available that take to heat alot better. But before this turns into some kind of war about cracking... I just want everybody to remember that Mike was just showin how his latest project has come. I only had a small part in it all but I think the manifold is just as much of a show piece as a performance part. It's all custom work wich is always somewhat of an experiment. And this is all his creation wich I think is very impressive.

I was never insulting at all - and have nothing against it - I even said I liked it. I was just pointing out what others who have run these manifolds in similar cars have said. Its not 304 or 321 that I was talking about, or the welds, or any fancy joints. What Len was pointing out was that when you hang a 20+ lb turbo on the end of the manifold, the heat cycles are going to cause it to crack. And the apparently obvious answer of binding the manifold up with a bunch of braces to itself to prevent this - but experience shows that binding it up like that causes cracks and damage just as easily as none at all. The stainless wants to flex, and will warp/crack things when bound up by braces to/from itself. That is what the people who have run these have to say about it. They all agree you must brace the turbo with some sort of tripod setup from the block to the bottom of the turbo, but still allow some lateral movement, and you cannot brace from the exhaust flange to the turbo flange.

Now, I too agree that it is a nice show piece, and the design is great and all when it somes to HP and spooling a turbo. He did a good job. All I mentioned was the post from the other people who have done this - not as an insult, just pointing out some advice I thought you guys might want to know. I'm done repeating myself now, good luck.

Originally posted by pghsebring

Originally posted by quicksilver99 I know T-304 stainless doesn't take heat as well as T-321 stainless, and now where near as well as mild steel or cast iron. But for what this manifold is gonna see as far as "use and abuse" I'm more than positive that it's gonna last for quite a while. Yes there could have been fancy Swaged slip-jounts and flex bellows to make a bullet proof design, and there are more expensive materials available that take to heat alot better. But before this turns into some kind of war about cracking... I just want everybody to remember that Mike was just showin how his latest project has come. I only had a small part in it all but I think the manifold is just as much of a show piece as a performance part. It's all custom work wich is always somewhat of an experiment. And this is all his creation wich I think is very impressive.

I was never insulting at all - and have nothing against it - I even said I liked it. I was just pointing out what others who have run these manifolds in similar cars have said. Its not 304 or 321 that I was talking about, or the welds, or any fancy joints. What Len was pointing out was that when you hang a 20+ lb turbo on the end of the manifold, the heat cycles are going to cause it to crack. And the apparently obvious answer of binding the manifold up with a bunch of braces to itself to prevent this - but experience shows that binding it up like that causes cracks and damage just as easily as none at all. The stainless wants to flex, and will warp/crack things when bound up by braces to/from itself. That is what the people who have run these have to say about it. They all agree you must brace the turbo with some sort of tripod setup from the block to the bottom of the turbo, but still allow some lateral movement, and you cannot brace from the exhaust flange to the turbo flange. Now, I too agree that it is a nice show piece, and the design is great and all when it somes to HP and spooling a turbo. He did a good job. All I mentioned was the post from the other people who have done this - not as an insult, just pointing out some advice I thought you guys might want to know. I'm done repeating myself now, good luck.

Its a beefy manifold. Leave it at that. If and when it cracks, I will personally let you know.

But until then, its a badass piece of work. Amen.

just FYI....

you dont really want to see blue when welding, this means its not hot enough and/or you didnt post flow long enough. Gold is good, but ideally you want a shiny silver.

304L is OK, but for longevity 316 and 321 are the shit. Im a little psycho with inconel and Ti now though. Welding Inconel is odd.

Originally posted by turbo8u
Im a little psycho with inconel and Ti now though. Welding Inconel is odd.

/drool mmmmmm Ti & Inconel

Originally posted by quicksilver99
The welds where done hot and fast, about 130 amps with 1/16" filler rod, so there was very little carbon and almost no carbide precipitation. Infact most of them where damn near gold and blue when finished.

Daaaamn... 130 amps on schedule 10 SS pipe? Are you doing single passes? I usually run 2 passes... a root pass, quartered, no filler... and then fill/cap it at once. Sometimes I'll fill and cap it separately for a total of 3 passes if I really want to make it look pretty. I'm usually down in the 70-90 amp range. Ofcoarse, I also re-bevel the piping to a point and then put a small flat on the end. This really helps when trying to acheive max penetration. I've been getting a consistent silver/gold color using 25 cfm Argon through a gas lens w/ #6 cup. I wouldn't say I move fast though... I usually slow down and take my time.

Maybe you're talking about the flange welds being done at 130 amps... that's more like it.

Either way... nice manifold! :thumbsup I did cringe when I saw the cheater cuts though. ;)

I know this is long but...

I welded the pipe at 130 amps in one pass, the flange was done around 175. I used a 3/32 diameter 2% thoriated tungsten, #6 cup with no lens, and a 1/16 filler. I also walk the cup around the pipe. Takes practice to do but I been burnin pipe for about 10 years. All of it has been food grade so quality is a must. I'll see if I can get some video of myself walkin the cup around some pipe and leave a link for the guys that don't know what this means. And personally I think a purged pipe weld should be kinda dark, not burnt black but almost a brown color. Most of the stuff I do now has to deal with brine mixtures and acid wash's and is costantly in a rather horrid enviroment so the weld must be at it's absolute best quality and material degridation is absolutely not allowed. Yes silver is ideal, especially with Ti where any color means you have damaged the base metal, but it's just below blue in the austenitic stainless steels' color spectrum when heated. I don't want to rip on any one's welding abilitys either, each person has they're own methods and they're own oppinons of whats right and wrong. I welded this up for mike to the best of my abilities and used every bit of knowledge I had on the subject. The ram-horn style manifold is nothing new to me either, they seem to produce the best results compared to anything else you can dream up. I've built a number of them and none have cracked yet, even with a GT45 hangin off of a B18A2 with no bracing. As for everybody that has joined in on this lil debate on the subject I'm glad this has kinda led in this direction. All the stuff thats been brought up so far isn't exactly available for the regular backyard mechanic, hopefully this all gives someone else some crazy ideas and they try building they're own manifold, cuz the more that do the more we can learn about pushin this motor to the limit and maybe some day 600 or 700hp at the wheels wont seem so far fetched of an idea.

Originally posted by quicksilver99
I know this is long but... I welded the pipe at 130 amps in one pass, the flange was done around 175. I used a 3/32 diameter 2% thoriated tungsten, #6 cup with no lens, and a 1/16 filler. I also walk the cup around the pipe. Takes practice to do but I been burnin pipe for about 10 years. All of it has been food grade so quality is a must. I'll see if I can get some video of myself walkin the cup around some pipe and leave a link for the guys that don't know what this means. And personally I think a purged pipe weld should be kinda dark, not burnt black but almost a brown color. Most of the stuff I do now has to deal with brine mixtures and acid wash's and is costantly in a rather horrid enviroment so the weld must be at it's absolute best quality and material degridation is absolutely not allowed. Yes silver is ideal, especially with Ti where any color means you have damaged the base metal, but it's just below blue in the austenitic stainless steels' color spectrum when heated. I don't want to rip on any one's welding abilitys either, each person has they're own methods and they're own oppinons of whats right and wrong. I welded this up for mike to the best of my abilities and used every bit of knowledge I had on the subject. The ram-horn style manifold is nothing new to me either, they seem to produce the best results compared to anything else you can dream up. I've built a number of them and none have cracked yet, even with a GT45 hangin off of a B18A2 with no bracing. As for everybody that has joined in on this lil debate on the subject I'm glad this has kinda led in this direction. All the stuff thats been brought up so far isn't exactly available for the regular backyard mechanic, hopefully this all gives someone else some crazy ideas and they try building they're own manifold, cuz the more that do the more we can learn about pushin this motor to the limit and maybe some day 600 or 700hp at the wheels wont seem so far fetched of an idea.

600-700hp to the wheels on a 2gnt is all a matter of money, time and a buttload of work.

We'd all join the darkside if we wanted it quick and easy.

Originally posted by dougie2
I've been getting a consistent silver/gold color using 25 cfm Argon through a gas lens w/ #6 cup. I wouldn't say I move fast though... I usually slow down and take my time.

With a gas lens you shouldnt need that much argon flow, you're probably just wasting gas. Ill be down in the 15-20 cfm range and its perfect. You also shouldnt need to do multiple passes on SCH 10. You want to go as fast as possible so you keep your heat input down, this is especially important on stainless steels. It doesnt help that youre doing multiple passes either, that much heat input is causing weak welds, mainly at the HAZ. Welds dont normally fail at the weld itself, but at the heat affected zone, theres a reason for that.

I move as fast as possible (as possible meaning full penetration) and use solarflux type B on all my stainless and Ti welds. I also learned a ton about setup and technique from a 40 year experienced TIG welder while working at Lockheed and was continually x ray tested.

Honest opinion, everyone I know in the professional exhaust fabrication business would laugh if you ever told them youre using pipe. It does work though, but its not a race car exhaust or anything.

Props on the innovation though! not a lot of people around here doing this kind of thing. Nice work Mike!!

edit: and oh I dont think 6-700rwhp is far fetched at all.

Originally posted by turbo8u
edit: and oh I dont think 6-700rwhp is far fetched at all.

I really don't either, there's plenty of 1.8 L hondas runnin around makin that or more so why cant we?

Originally posted by quicksilver99

Originally posted by turbo8u edit: and oh I dont think 6-700rwhp is far fetched at all.

I really don't either, there's plenty of 1.8 L hondas runnin around makin that or more so why cant we?

you missed it :cheers

6-700 R whp

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by quicksilver99

Originally posted by turbo8u edit: and oh I dont think 6-700rwhp is far fetched at all.

I really don't either, there's plenty of 1.8 L hondas runnin around makin that or more so why cant we?

you missed it :cheers 6-700 R whp

Cuz Josh has the Viper Talon, he might make it :)

And josh, I see alot of people that use "pipe" to make manifolds. Its the same as the all the fittings, sch10 304ss.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by quicksilver99

Originally posted by turbo8u edit: and oh I dont think 6-700rwhp is far fetched at all.

I really don't either, there's plenty of 1.8 L hondas runnin around makin that or more so why cant we?

you missed it :cheers 6-700 R whp

Cuz Josh has the Viper Talon, he might make it :) And josh, I see alot of people that use "pipe" to make manifolds. Its the same as the all the fittings, sch10 304ss.

pipe is different than tube homie. also, 304SS and 304L are different as well. I know a lot of people use pipe (IE weld els) to make manifolds, but look at an F1 car...do they use pipe? lol

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST

Originally posted by turbo8u

Originally posted by quicksilver99

Originally posted by turbo8u edit: and oh I dont think 6-700rwhp is far fetched at all.

I really don't either, there's plenty of 1.8 L hondas runnin around makin that or more so why cant we?

you missed it :cheers 6-700 R whp

Cuz Josh has the Viper Talon, he might make it :) And josh, I see alot of people that use "pipe" to make manifolds. Its the same as the all the fittings, sch10 304ss.

pipe is different than tube homie. also, 304SS and 304L are different as well. I know a lot of people use pipe (IE weld els) to make manifolds, but look at an F1 car...do they use pipe? lol

Nope! didn't miss the R whp! was late and was tryin to explain to the girlfriend why it was funny! she's still learnin....


And it would be great if I could afford to buy a $25,000 CNC mandrel bender to form the Inconel tubing! Right after I build a $75,000 motor that idles at 5K rpm and wind's to 25K RPMs!!!!!


Sry... long day at work... 16 hrs... I had to work... cuz Im poor...

Yes seamless tubing would be nice but weld els are cheap and so is pipe.

Soooooo... you get a downpipe and wastegate dump tube made yet Mike?

Originally posted by totaleclipse_05
Soooooo... you get a downpipe and wastegate dump tube made yet Mike?

Nope, sure havent.

well even "seamless" tubing still has a seam...

im talking RWD with a 420a motor and 6 speed trans

Originally posted by turbo8u
well even "seamless" tubing still has a seam...

No need to state the obvious lol.

Originally posted by dsmtuner1

Originally posted by turbo8u well even "seamless" tubing still has a seam...

No need to state the obvious lol.

no need to state the obvious that im stating the obvious. lol

wait... RWD 420A?