Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by Blizare

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by 96BlckGS How do i actually clamp the voltage exactly

With a fucking VOLTAGE CLAMP!!! jeebus. Use that button up top that has the words SEARCH on it. Then read and read and search and read. holy shitballs.

I feeeel your pain. Threads like these make me want to slit my jugular.

Kill me 1st... murder/suicide pact.

With pleasure. You're more annoying than the person who doesn't search. Please for the sake of everyone's eyes and patience, shut the hell up.

Anyway, back to the topic...
Everyone has been in your shoes before and you have alot of things to read about before you should safely boost your car. The following is a list of topics to check out and my opinions on them (I've been boosting my car since 1999, installed several other turbo kits, and have rebuilt my own and several other's engines so you can trust my opinion).

1. Missing link/Voltage clamp - what others are saying is mostly correct. The missing link is a check valve that goes between your intake manifold and your MAP sensor. It keeps the sensor from receiving any positive pressure caused by the turbo. A voltage clamp is an electrical device that is spliced into the wiring between your MAP sensor and your ecu. It keeps the voltage at 4.7v or below. If the ecu receives a signal from the MAP sensor over that voltage, it cuts fuel and the car bucks/studders.

2. SAFC - The safc is a useful tool for tuning most vehicles, but unfortunately, not ours. The reason that it sucks is because the only signal that it can alter to directly compensate for fuel correction is the MAP signal. Our ecu uses the MAP signal (along with other sensors) to determine the proper ignition timing and the amount of fuel to deliver. When the safc trys to lean the car out, it drops the MAP signal voltage. This will reduce fuel delivery, but also increase ignition timing. This is a BAD combo, especially on stock internals. Also, if you try to add fuel at wide open throttle, it will increase the MAP voltage above 4.7 volts thus causing fuel cut. The SAFC is much better suited for applications like the 4g63 that uses a Mass Air Sensor for fuel delivery instead of a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor like ours.

3. SFMU tuning - The best way for you to tune your car with that particular kit is to get VERY familiar with the Vortech SFMU. This unit is an adjustable rise rate fuel pressure regulator and it is extremely simple to use. It comes with multiple disks and springs that are used to determine the rise rate of fuel pressure with each lb of boost. Using an 8:1 disk for example: for every 1 lb of boost, the SFMU will add 8 psi of fuel pressure. Using a 12:1 disk will give you 12 psi of fuel pressure for every 1 lb of boost, and so on... The base pressure is also adjustable at the turn of a screw on the top of the regulator. If I were you, I would sell your safc and use the money to buy the Vortech SFMU and 310cc injectors. Several people use this setup safely running the same setup you will be. In my opinion, it's the best and safest way to tune when entering the turbo world.

If you don't have install instructions, you will run into several questions which you will be able to search and find the answers for. I believe the hahn instructions (and maybe star too) are posted on the main site. Read them through a few times before you even start the install. If you can't find an answer to a question, just ask and someone helpful will give you a hand. If I were in your shoes, I sure as hell would turbo your car. I wouldn't run 8 psi on that kit though if you absolutely cannot afford a rebuild. I would run 5-7 psi and run the car on the rich side. If you stay in that range, you'll be fine.