Hey, I got some Bondo for my dad at Wal-Mart and junk, and while I was there I noticed some Bondo Premium filler with a mustang I think on it. Is there any differences between these two?

I'm planning on welding in plates from where my spoiler was and then filling in over. Should I just kick Bondo to the curb and use something else? Thanks.

If you do a good job welding it you should only need spot putty and filler primer.Yeah theres lots of different grades of bondo though. light weight, heavy wieght, fiber reinforced ect ect.

i recomend using a coat of duraglass over where the welds were to prevent rust then maybe a coat of glazing putty .

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst
i recomend using a coat of duraglass over where the welds were to prevent rust then maybe a coat of glazing putty .

So do I use the Bondo at all? If so, what kind out of the two?

And where do I get duraglass and glazing putty? I'm completely clueless when it comes to this stuff.

Don't bother with glazing puddy. The bondo brand filler is fairly light weight and will work fine. Duraglass and Tiger hair are heavier fillers, but since you are welding up the holes, 1/16th thickness is all I'd use with the Wally world bondo otherwise, it starts to crack after awhile. Remember just skim coats, don't kill it all at once. Buy a cheap body/filler file too.

Originally posted by boosted60trimrst
i recomend using a coat of duraglass over where the welds were to prevent rust then maybe a coat of glazing putty .

Duraglass actually does not settle good with metal. Trust me, I know.
I have used shitloads of different filler.

If I were you, I would do this.

Weld your holes shut, grind them down, slap a thin coat of Angel Hair over that, sand it with some 80grit all the way down just to where it covers all the little scratches and big holes left from grinding the weld down, and then go over that with this this stuff called Duralite or Dynalite. Its lightweight filler, but pretty strong, and will get your job perfectly. Apply that stuff, sand it with some like 150, then 220 and then wetsand it good, make sure your all smoooth, then primer it up and see how you did!

Alright cool, thanks guys.

I gotta interject here... If you weld the holes up properly, you will only need to grind the welds down... not all the way though. Leave a small hill, about 1/32" and then start sanding with 180, 220, 320 and wrap up with 400. If you insist on using a filler of some kind, use it extremely sparingly and get the best. Dexter Hysol Aerospace (Now owned by LOCTITE) has a filler under the Part number EA960F. It is essentially aircraft grade Bondo. It will not crack or fall off and sands smoother than a babys ass!

Originally posted by RickyMeeses
I gotta interject here... If you weld the holes up properly, you will only need to grind the welds down... not all the way though. Leave a small hill, about 1/32" and then start sanding with 180, 220, 320 and wrap up with 400. If you insist on using a filler of some kind, use it extremely sparingly and get the best. Dexter Hysol Aerospace (Now owned by LOCTITE) has a filler under the Part number EA960F. It is essentially aircraft grade Bondo. It will not crack or fall off and sands smoother than a babys ass!

uh huh, and only costs about $30 a pint!

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
uh huh, and only costs about $30 a pint!

You know of this stuff? I haven't seen it on the open market. Trying to locate actual pricing now... Even at $30 pt., you should only need a tbsp. full to cover 3-5 welded holes In any case I only listed it as an option. Expensive? Almost definately. Worth it? Depends on what level of perfection you are looking for. Personally, If you are gonna do something do it right or not at all. One reason it is taking me so long to do my headliner. I just don't settle for anything less than perfect. Maybe too long in the military. I always ask myself, Would I buy that or pay for that service? If I can't answer yes then something is wrong.
Maybe I am just too anal or have a severe case of OCD... :shrug

Originally posted by RickyMeeses
I just don't settle for anything less than perfect.

Then you're driving the wrong car, lol. Anywho, I think I will weld some plates in and fill over it.

Originally posted by dsmmyth

Originally posted by RickyMeeses I just don't settle for anything less than perfect.

Then you're driving the wrong car, lol. Anywho, I think I will weld some plates in and fill over it.

Let me explain that then... :) My workmanship that is. The car? Pain in my ass that it is, You are right my friend! But it is mine and when complete, it will be finally a quite the piece of work. Good luck with your hatch. I am sure it will turn out just fine. Any help I can give let me know...

Originally posted by RickyMeeses

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST uh huh, and only costs about $30 a pint!

You know of this stuff? I haven't seen it on the open market. Trying to locate actual pricing now... Even at $30 pt., you should only need a tbsp. full to cover 3-5 welded holes In any case I only listed it as an option. Expensive? Almost definately. Worth it? Depends on what level of perfection you are looking for. Personally, If you are gonna do something do it right or not at all. One reason it is taking me so long to do my headliner. I just don't settle for anything less than perfect. Maybe too long in the military. I always ask myself, Would I buy that or pay for that service? If I can't answer yes then something is wrong. Maybe I am just too anal or have a severe case of OCD... :shrug

Trust me, I work for none the less than perfect myself. If you can recall, it took 6-7months of straight body work to do my widebody as other who have it, it takes a month or two cuz they door poor work.

As for that filler, yes I have seen it. Its been on the market for about 2-3 months. I seen it last time I was at the boat shop getting paint for a water ski I was spraying for a neighbor and yes, for a PINT ITS $32.95. Atleast here it is.

Any of you guys ever try CARBO-FILL ? it's like bondo..with tiny shreds of carbon in it, is stronger than bondo(but way more expensive, around $30 a pint)..it has a really really low work time(it says 3-5 minutes, but it's more like 30seconds-2mins) and once it's totally hardened is a major pain to sand down, it's good for a first coat if you have a rather big place you need filled up and dont want it to crack or come loose.

Originally posted by DarkTalon
Any of you guys ever try CARBO-FILL ? it's like bondo..with tiny shreds of carbon in it, is stronger than bondo(but way more expensive, around $30 a pint)..it has a really really low work time(it says 3-5 minutes, but it's more like 30seconds-2mins) and once it's totally hardened is a major pain to sand down, it's good for a first coat if you have a rather big place you need filled up and dont want it to crack or come loose.

Yes I have seen this before and I will add in that it does have very little work time actually if mixed according to the label, it is a bitch to sand down (i'm talking 80grit to just rough it up) and then it does actually crack pretty easy. Personally, I would stick Duraglass, Maraglass or Angel Hair on the bottom, and then a fine tach free filler like some DynaLite or some Featherlite.

Usually, on cars I fix, I grind it down to metal, do a coat of Duraglass or Angel Hair (Angel Hair on bigger dents) and then a nice smooth coat of Featherlite made by USC. Its strong, plenty of work time, and does not crack very easily. Then, I go with a Laquer Primer, wetsand it all off to just fill the tiny spots that may have been left over, then a good Polyurethane primer, then obvioulsy your paint and clear and then a good wetsand and buffing.

Just my experience with stuff though, just another .02 from me, but I am a body man, and do experience a shitload of different fillers out there :D :P

I remember a product called Aluma-fill or something like that. That stuff was much the same as the other mentioned as far as work time and pain to smooth/shape.
I found out that the EA960F costs us over $450 a kit. Comes with 2 quart cans and a quart bottle of the marshmallow part.
Mike thanks for the heads up on the other products. I only have experience with the aircraft body work. Same concept of work practice just different materials. We also have to worry about ply direction when laying up multiple plies of graphite, kevlar, and glass.

The way I filled my holes originaly was with bondo and a mesh screen underneath the body.. It worked but it would fall out eventually or crack. Me and my girlfriends dad redid it mostly and what he did was grinded all around where the holes where.. Took a funny nosed hammer (dont know what its called) and poked all around the holes so that it was caved in like cratered. Then he took this stuff called tagerhair and mixed it with this stuff called all metal and squirted a little hardener in it. Now let me tell you when this shit cures it goes no where. And as it cures it gets really hot. Like the properties of it it just starts to burn. When it cured he die grinded it down.. flatened it out.. hit it up with some filler then primered it. And the primer we sprayed on it had a protectant against rust. After that just hit two base coats and a layer of clear and your all good. Sand it down with 1500 after about a week when it hardens all the way and you should be good. Again this is another way of doing it. Welding would be the best obviously but if you dont have the tools look into how we did it. That shit won't go anywhere once its cured and adhered to the car.

The only problem with that metal filler stuff is when it gets cold, i dont care how hard it is, it will have its ways.