ive searched this site,tuners and google but i cant find any info about how to do this..i dont want to spend extra for spals switchs when i have the stock switchs,so how can i wire up the spal kit to run off the stock powerd window switch?if you ya know PLZ LMK ASAP because the kit should be here tomorrow...

if youve never done this b4 but know what each wire in the switchs harness is for then post that as well...

NO ONE?







Parts im Looking for.

Black apillars,black door sills,drivers side fender cap(end cap),floor mats,CF shift boot and Ebrake cover

SEARCH AGAIN ON THIS FORUM...trust me you will find it. Grain has done it with the SPAL kit.
Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

this is the only post i can find by grin abouy the spal kit.


hrm... i had the spal kit with my rs door skins. lookerd like shit. so i got some gs door skins, just did some research to what wires controlled what from the stock door harness, and wired it up. not hard at all. but i have to grind down the stock door crank. that was a pain.


and that doesnt help much..

_______________________________________
Parts im Looking for.

Black apillars,black door sills,drivers side fender cap(end cap),floor mats,CF shift boot and Ebrake cover

he also posted this,but me and a few others cant find it,ive looked everywhere i thought it would be but its not there.


lol, i posted a wire diagram to people with after market window kits and stock door skins/wireing.


search BANME!s



_______________________________________
Parts im Looking for.

Black apillars,black door sills,drivers side fender cap(end cap),floor mats,CF shift boot and Ebrake cover

FOUNT IT..i couldnt find it searchin for grain,but i fount it under key word door switch on page 5 Subject Aftermarket power windows with stock switches



_______________________________________
Parts im Looking for.

Black apillars,black door sills,drivers side fender cap(end cap),floor mats,CF shift boot and Ebrake cover

dood has got me lost..in his wirein he is showing that the spal kit should have 3 to 4 wires but they only have 2 red and black. see check it out.



Door-----------------Spal
-------------------------
Blue-----------------Red--------power for up/down
Black----------------Brown------ground
Green/Red Stripe-----Black (window Actuator) neg
Green/Black Stripe---Red (window Actuator) - pos

i forgot what colors goto the green wire and black wire for the spal kit to the pass. side window from the drivers side.

Passenger Side
------------
Door-------------------Spal
----------------------------
Blue/Black Stripe------Red
Brown/Yellow Stripe----Black
Green/Yellow Stripe----Green
Green/Red Stripe-------Red (window actuator) - pos
Green/Black Stripe-----Black (window actuator) neg


_______________________________________
Parts im Looking for.

Black apillars,black door sills,drivers side fender cap(end cap),floor mats,CF shift boot and Ebrake cover

I had a spal kit, there's more than black and red..or should be. Red is power, black is ground, you need the other two to swap polarities so that the motor goes up or down.

Originally posted by a_miller_76
I had a spal kit, there's more than black and red..or should be. Red is power, black is ground, you need the other two to swap polarities so that the motor goes up or down.

mine has red and black and thats it..



_______________________________________
Parts im Looking for.

Black apillars,black door sills,drivers side fender cap(end cap),floor mats,CF shift boot and Ebrake cover

Yup..., the wires need to be switched I have the Colibri Kit which eliminate the stock spindle, pretty similar though. If anyone gets the same kit I did I have pics of which wire goes to what
Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

Where did you find this kit? I'm curious

My bro use to work at Good Guys, he said this kit was better than the other one they stock'd. I saw it on A1 Electrics.
Alvin

http://www.cardomain.com/id/96rst

no no, let me break it down for you. the spal MOTOR has 2 wires. a red and a black. now, the window SWITCHES (spal ones) have the following wires that plug into it: Red (power), brown (ground), grey (if you have the illuminated switches). so when everything is plugged up into the spal switches you end up with a power, ground, illum (option), and then you have the red and black wires from the motor. for these...dont think of them as POS and NEG. cuz in all actuality, depending on which stage (up or down) one acts as a ground, and the other acts as the power. the polarity is reversed.

so, what you need to do for your STOCK switches is run a constant POS and a ground...and an illum wire if you want it. i havent ever seen a stock switch...but im sure it will be simple enough to figure out. the wiring schematics dont cover that. but it does cover which wires signal the window motors. it is as follows:

drivers window UP: green with a red stripe
drivers window DOWN: green with blue stripe

pass window UP: brown with yellow stripe
pass window DOWN: green with yellow stripe

******drivers side*****

now, it is my understanding that you need to connect the green with red stripe to the black wire that goes to the SPAL motor. this should make the window go up

you connect the green with blue stripe to the red wire that goes to the spal motor. this should make the window go down

if its reversed...then just swap wires...that simple


*******pass side*******

connect the brown with yellow stripe wire to the black wire going to the SPAL motor. this will make the window go up

connect the green with yellow stripe wire to the red wire going to the SPAL motor. this will make the window go down.

again, if this is not the case, reverse the wires.

****power/ground/illumination wires*****

since they dont exist, youll have to run your own to the switch.

***drivers side***

connect your power wire (rob power from somewhere) and connect this wire to the BLUE wire on the window switch. if you want to use your windows without having to use the key...there is a constant hot that runs along the steering colum...this is a fat white wire..you cant miss it.

connect a ground wire to the black wire on the switch. just get about 6" of wire, connect this up, put a ring terminal on the end, and screw it to the door....your ground is now done.

illumination? im not sure really...my wirng dosent cover that at the switch. probably the only damn wire left. you can get ill power from a wire under the dash. its green with a white stripe IIRC.

***pass side***

blue with black stripe is your hot. run your power wire over and connect.



ok, confused now. you may have to kinda look back at your drivers side and figure out the wiring for the pass side now. his wiring shows different than the schematic that crutchfield sent me. his schematic shows that the brown/yellow wire is a ground. in my schematic, it shows that that wire is the "window up" wire.

ill look around and try to figure this out..maybe i can find the FSM wiring diagram. be back in a bit....but that should get you rolling anyways

Originally posted by 96eclipse2nr
no no, let me break it down for you. the spal MOTOR has 2 wires. a red and a black. now, the window SWITCHES (spal ones) have the following wires that plug into it: Red (power), brown (ground), grey (if you have the illuminated switches). so when everything is plugged up into the spal switches you end up with a power, ground, illum (option), and then you have the red and black wires from the motor. for these...dont think of them as POS and NEG. cuz in all actuality, depending on which stage (up or down) one acts as a ground, and the other acts as the power. the polarity is reversed. so, what you need to do for your STOCK switches is run a constant POS and a ground...and an illum wire if you want it. i havent ever seen a stock switch...but im sure it will be simple enough to figure out. the wiring schematics dont cover that. but it does cover which wires signal the window motors. it is as follows: drivers window UP: green with a red stripe drivers window DOWN: green with blue stripe pass window UP: brown with yellow stripe pass window DOWN: green with yellow stripe ******drivers side***** now, it is my understanding that you need to connect the green with red stripe to the black wire that goes to the SPAL motor. this should make the window go up you connect the green with blue stripe to the red wire that goes to the spal motor. this should make the window go down if its reversed...then just swap wires...that simple *******pass side******* connect the brown with yellow stripe wire to the black wire going to the SPAL motor. this will make the window go up connect the green with yellow stripe wire to the red wire going to the SPAL motor. this will make the window go down. again, if this is not the case, reverse the wires. ****power/ground/illumination wires***** since they dont exist, youll have to run your own to the switch. ***drivers side*** connect your power wire (rob power from somewhere) and connect this wire to the BLUE wire on the window switch. if you want to use your windows without having to use the key...there is a constant hot that runs along the steering colum...this is a fat white wire..you cant miss it. connect a ground wire to the black wire on the switch. just get about 6" of wire, connect this up, put a ring terminal on the end, and screw it to the door....your ground is now done. illumination? im not sure really...my wirng dosent cover that at the switch. probably the only damn wire left. you can get ill power from a wire under the dash. its green with a white stripe IIRC. ***pass side*** blue with black stripe is your hot. run your power wire over and connect. ok, confused now. you may have to kinda look back at your drivers side and figure out the wiring for the pass side now. his wiring shows different than the schematic that crutchfield sent me. his schematic shows that the brown/yellow wire is a ground. in my schematic, it shows that that wire is the "window up" wire. ill look around and try to figure this out..maybe i can find the FSM wiring diagram. be back in a bit....but that should get you rolling anyways

i brought my batt and switch into the house to do some testin,so far i got the drivers side working good with grains write up.now that i have everything in my hands his write up is dead on so far...



_______________________________________
Parts im Looking for.

Black apillars,black door sills,drivers side fender cap(end cap),floor mats,CF shift boot and Ebrake cover

dam what a bitch just to get a power wire..on my car there is no way to get the wire thur that housein inside the door jam.its all sealed,so i took the fender off and found a place to run it beside that housein.but anyway i got the drivers side done and the black door panel installed only to find out that the window is now hitin on something(i think its the crank housin gettin pushed in by the panel).i tell ya everyone makes out like this is something ez to do,but it takes alot of work..well now for the pass side..
_______________________________________
Parts im Looking for.

Black apillars,black door sills,drivers side fender cap(end cap),floor mats,CF shift boot and Ebrake cover

it "appears" to be sealed..but its not. there is a white plug there that you have to move outta the way. believe me..weve all dealt with it. you can get the wires through

you may have to add spacers to the assembly, and you may not. i had to add some to get the window to roll down. each car is different, even if its the same make/model/year. this is a universal kit...so some fit and finish will be required.

it IS relitavely easy. its not stupid easy...like installing an intake or something...but not that difficult. i didnt think it was that bad. i could think of worse/harder things iv had to do.

Originally posted by 96eclipse2nr
it "appears" to be sealed..but its not. there is a white plug there that you have to move outta the way. believe me..weve all dealt with it. you can get the wires through you may have to add spacers to the assembly, and you may not. i had to add some to get the window to roll down. each car is different, even if its the same make/model/year. this is a universal kit...so some fit and finish will be required. it IS relitavely easy. its not stupid easy...like installing an intake or something...but not that difficult. i didnt think it was that bad. i could think of worse/harder things iv had to do.

i did add spacers,the largest ones were to big and the smaller ones were to small so i added one of those flat bommerring looking ones with the small one..i didnt mess with movin the white harness,but after i took off the fender and found the way to run it its ez now you just look for that crack beside the white harness and that will come out behind the kick panels..

i didnt get to start on the pass sideo en because the kit i got only came with 1 primary adaptor (#8) and i need one for each door..



_______________________________________
Parts im Looking for.

Black apillars,black door sills,drivers side fender cap(end cap),floor mats,CF shift boot and Ebrake cover